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Pictures of Crack in Ceiling

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lrjetav8r
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/09/2013 : 18:21:59

Edited by - on

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1773 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2013 : 19:13:54

That looks to my untrained eye like the outer hull was hit and the force of the shock either transferred to the interior lining or the outer hull was repaired but the lining was left as is.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2013 : 19:16:11

The cracks above the teak trim strip suggest damage to the joint between the deck and the hull, where the joint is behind that strip. Externally, the joint is behind the rub-rail, where some external repair may have been made. You could give us a photo of that area at the rub-rail, but this requires a professional surveyor--nothing less. I suspect the boat took a big hit, either from another boat or from a piling. I'd let somebody prove me wrong before I even talked about buying it.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/09/2013 19:21:54

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2013 : 20:24:42

What they said, that looks like transference damage. As the guys mentioned, have a professional take a look at it. I'd bet if you looked closely at the area outside you'll find evidence of a repair.

Get a surveyor, or better, find another boat. Is the PO forthcoming about the damage? If they don't know what caused it or how it was repaired, I'd just walk away.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts

Response Posted - 08/09/2013 : 21:12:46

Damaged goods - the catwalk would probably never be able to support your weight

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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1511 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2013 : 04:43:55

The crack may look worse than it is because of the dirt in it. Does the outside deck seem soft in that area?

There doesn't appear to be any damage to the inner liner behind the teak trim or that hook. Since you said you already bought the boat, and the crack wasn't hidden, I would be inclined to open it up a bit with a Dremel, clean it out and patch it up.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5895 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2013 : 05:00:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Davy J
 The crack may look worse than it is because of the dirt in it. Does the outside deck seem soft in that area?

There doesn't appear to be any damage to the inner liner behind the teak trim or that hook. Since you said you already bought the boat, and the crack wasn't hidden, I would be inclined to open it up a bit with a Dremel, clean it out and patch it up.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I agree with Davy. I'd repair it and go sailing. If it doesn't show any signs that it is progressing, I'd forget about it.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2013 : 08:33:33

Sorry--I forgot you had said in the other thread that you'd already bought the boat...

I'll switch sides--it'll sail fine.

I'd clean up the area so I could see whether it shows signs of seepage in the future, and if not, do some cosmetic repairs at some point, to make it more saleable (not sailable) in the future. Seepage could be a sign of a leak remaining from the (suspected) damage, such that the core could be compromised over time. But the side-decks are narrow, so the fiberglass doesn't need that much support.

Fair winds!

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2013 : 11:43:09

You should seal it up, because if water enters the deck core from outside anywhere near that break, you will see tea-colored leakage there as the resin-stained water comes out.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2013 : 14:53:22

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dmpilc
 You should seal it up, because if water enters the deck core from outside anywhere near that break, you will see tea-colored leakage there as the resin-stained water comes out.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...except if that's happening, you want to know about it so you can fix the outside leak. That's why I suggest cleaning it and then watching for new evidence.

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lrjetav8r
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 08/10/2013 : 16:54:14

I'm sorry I should have referred to the other post, I'm new at this....You guys are right on the money. The rub rail has been damaged directly outside of the crack, but not badly. I noticed it when first looking at the boat, but it doesn't seem to be that uncommon on old boats. There has not been any repairs anywhere. Evidently, the hull flexed, but the there is no give at that corner so it cracked. I am glad to hear that it is not a severe problem. The walkway is firm and everything seems solid. It has had some water coming into it from a lifeline stantion almost directly above it. It is where you board and appears people have been pulling on it. What are your thoughts on the best way to fill the crack? I really appreciate all of your input and help in this.

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2013 : 18:34:12

Dremel then Marine Tex... then go sailing. Oh and Teak strips are called battens when you are buying teak. It is amazing what a few sections of teak batten can cover and look good doing it.

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lrjetav8r
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2013 : 19:17:17

Thanks Frank! I will do that! And a big thanks to everyone for their input! Your help and advice have been invaluable!

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2013 : 20:48:15

At a minimum, that stanchion should be re-bedded. Remove it, run a bead of Boat Life Life Caulk (polysulfide) on the base around each of the bolts and the perimeter of the base. Put it back together and hand-tighten until some caulk is squeezing out. Let it set up for several days, and then, probably with a helper, tighten the nuts inside while preventing the bolts from turning on the outside (so the seal is not lost around the threads). You can trim any excess away after that--I don't recommend trying to wipe it up before it sets.

If there's evidence of leakage where the damage is under the rub-rail, you might try some Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure (available at WM and others). It flows like water into small cracks, and then sets up sorta like silicone sealer. The alternative is to remove the rub-rail and begin repairs to the hull-deck joint, which is probably crunched in that area. But that's a big deal--Captain Tolley's is a little deal.

A while after doing both of those things, if you see no evidence of further leakage reaching those interior cracks, then and only then I'd make the cosmetic repairs inside. Marine Tex (an epoxy putty) is good for the bigger crack, and will help stabilize the liner at that point. The smaller "spider cracks" can probably fixed up with some gelcoat patch you can get in a tube, after opening them a little with a nail.

EDIT: There is another approach for that stanchion--the "gold standard" for mounting deck hardware--referred to as "overdrill, fill, and re-drill"... It provides maximum protection of the plywood deck core. You drill larger holes, put tape inside over the bottom of the holes, fill with thickened epoxy, let it cure completely, and then drill holes the size of the bolts through the epoxy. The result is a solid "sleeve" the protects the core and prevents compression. If water does find its way down the bolt, it simply drips off the nut inside. (Sealant is still recommended on the hardware outside.)

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/12/2013 21:11:14

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