Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm very happy with the design... Leds in resin in a pvc fitting.
Hard to beat. I wish they had used a larger wire, but mine has worked for about a year ( anchor light ) Very bright and low power draw.
I ordered a post from Catalina direct and found a PVC adapter to go from the post to the light. Screwed down the adapter to the post and glued the adapter to the light.
Oh... and I added a screw to the top and grinded off the head sharp, so the birds will not land on the light.
I replaced my nav lights with drop in festoon bulbs like these... http://store.marinebeam.com/perko-31mm-anchor-light.html They are brighter, and use less power, were reasonably priced, and more importantly I didn't have to rewire anything. I like things that work, easily.
They were drop ins to my perko factory nav lights.
I have had the same experience as Shnool using substitute led bulbs in my existing OEM light fixtures. They have been working just fine. My light bulbs don't know if they are in a 12V DC Truck, Car or Boat. All 12V DC automotive or marine DC systems seem to work the same. Doug
The different with marine systems is that the voltage range is much larger. A car with lights on is pretty much always running and so the voltage is around 13.8v. A sailboat often doesn't have the motor running and the voltage range is in the 11-13v window.
If you get a regulated LED (they will be advertised as having a very wide voltage range like 8-30V) then you'll be fine. If you get one that uses simple resistors then it will get quite dim as your batteries run down.
For the forward running lights a split red/green LED really does work better. White LEDs behind the green lens look white.
Um... I replaced incandescent lights with these LEDs. My observed range of light nearly doubled, even when my batteries were at about 50% charge when I "tested" the safety margins these afford. I get what you are saying, in the voltage ranges, and you are right a CAR alternator will push upwards of 15V, but a boat will range 13-11. Again, not seeing any downsides, and it's cheap enough for you to TRY and if it doesn't work... well, then go whole hog.
Just saying, its simple enough to try it at least.
After reading about the Bebi Owl anchor light, I don't think the $35 price is very high - especially when you think that it is, for all intents and purposes, permanent. With fixture-bulb type anchor lights, you are constantly worried about the wire to electrode connection corroding, the bulb falling out of the electrodes or losing contact, or corrosion building up on the contacts between the electrodes and the bulb. Lots of surfaces and contacts to go bad in a standard fixture. And between the cost of an anchor light fixture and LED bulb, you'd easily spend $50. Looks like a permanent solution, if you ask me. It's current regulated to accept variable voltage from your electrical system, and better in some cases than an incandescent bulb. Looks like a good solution. And the owners seem to be very accessible, so if you run into a problem, I'd assume they've got you covered.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.