Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
If you think a little bit about it, though, you'll recognize that the OEM setup is actually DOUBLE LINE REEFING, with a separate tack (the gooseneck hook) and clew line.
The REASON double line reefing is superior is, as mentioned in the earlier replies on this topic, that the CLEW and the TACK require different amounts of strength to keep them in place. The tack, if a line is used from the cockpit to the reef cringle and tied off at the mast) needs almost NO heavy tension. Pull down by hand, done.
The clew, OTOH, needs a LOT of pull, sometimes requiring a winch even on a C25, because the clew reef line is pulling down as well as aft.
For those skippers considering single line reefing, please, please, please, rethink your decision. There's really no reason to go backwards compared to the OEM design.
Years ago, a C380 skipper came up with a single reef system which required additional blocks to be added with O rings at the reef cringles simply to get his lines to actually be able to be used. It became an "internet classic" with all sorts of skippers trying to find the idea and use it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Anyone have pix of a tack hook attached to their boom of gooseneck?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Well that looks pretty darn easy. Thanks David for making the time and effort to post the above. So all I have to do is tension the clew correctly, run some ball cords through the center grommets and I set!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Well that looks pretty darn easy.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Here is the tip: loosen the main halyard, just enough, so that you have to pull down on the sail to get it onto the hook. So when you release it, it won't pop off. I then tension the foot, retension the halyard, and smoother... sailing.
I disagree that the tack and clew require majorly different amounts of force when reefing. You can put less force when setting up the tack because you can then use the halyard or downhaul to get the tension right, but there is still a lot of force on that tack hook when tensioned. In both cases you are securing almost all of the forces for a third of the sail area.
I've gone back and forth on both setups. I find that single line reefing with a slipperly line (amsteel/dyneema) works well for me. My boom also has reefing hooks that I can use to back it up if desirable.
This is what the tack end of my single line reefing looks like when reefed:
Using the dogbone setup there reduces friction and keeps from trapping the sail between the reefing lines. If using a tack hook it also makes it a lot easier to get the sail over the tack hook. My dogbone is currently done with a soft shackle, but someday I'll replace it with sewn webbing.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.