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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />My galley sink is completely inoperable at this point. Pump handle doesn't work and the drain leaks into the drawer. It's a great place to keep my phone, handheld GPS, keys and beverages however. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
My galley sink is still operable, but like you, it's only used to store the stuff in my pockets.
My galley sink is completely inoperable at this point. Pump handle doesn't work and the drain leaks into the drawer... --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good grief! What have you done to my baby?? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I can feel your pain Dave. This is totally unacceptable and I believe an intervention is called for..
As they say, it was that way when I found it. But seriously, last time the pump stopped working I opened it up and put a dab of Vaseline on the O-rings and gaskets. Worked like a charm for a few years. The old saw "rust never sleeps" apparently applies to backflow check valves and sink drains too. You have to admit, it's a completely insane design - the ice melter hose should Y pipe into the sink drain tube and the drain assembly is way too overcomplicated. Seems like it was designed by a Bavarian toymaker (not that there's anything wrong with that). The drain basically needs to be a short, threaded tube with a flange on one end with a flat nut on it and a hose barb on the other. I will say the galley area is quite convenient when fixing coffee and, or meals. Mostly when daysailing it's a great catch-all.
Boy was this a hot topic for me. Mine came with a back flow preventer but the ice box wouldn't drain properly(on my boat it was connected by a t to the galley sink). I eventually found that if the sink stopper was in place, as she moved through the water, a vacuum would suck the water out of the icebox. Then it worked less frequently(even with the back flow preventer being replaced). For the past couple of years, the preventer has been removed and my ice box drains very well now with no back flow, even when heeled over. If i don't want it to drain, i close the seacock. Hope that helps you out some.
Ok - the intervention worked. I put 2c worth of Vaseline on the O-rings and now the pump handle is spurting like a champ. BUT, what about the sink drain? If memory serves, mine has a threaded section that goes inside the SS sink drain hole, then there's a dome-shaped bottom with a hose barb on it. The dome fits on underneath the threaded section with an O-ring and the two are held together with a long bolt going up through a hole in the bottom of the dome. This seems overly complicated and prone to rusting (the bolt) and general failure. Anybody dealt with this? Who sells a replacement? Anything simpler that will work? I assume there's gotta be an RV replacement.
I replaced the sink drain/strainer on mine with a "bar strainer" that I picked up at Lowes. Was a fairly easy replacement. Getting a wrench on it was the most difficult part.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i> <br />...mine has a threaded section that goes inside the SS sink drain hole, then there's a dome-shaped bottom with a hose barb on it. The dome fits on underneath the threaded section with an O-ring and the two are held together with a long bolt going up through a hole in the bottom of the dome...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Sorry--I'm totally lost!
Dave - the original it's a kluge. By their own admission. But I think I've found one on Cat Direct that will fit. This one is recommended by CD for the C25 - for the flat bottom galley sink, not the oval head sink. It's 1"7/8 so that seems about the right size. Anybody know?
I am thinking of making the sink, icebox, and stove area a larger chart table and get rid of the sink and stove. Not sure about keeping the icebox, either.....
You need the sink in the galley for your cell phone, keys, GPS and drinks. The sink in the head is where I generally wash my hands when they get gunked up. There have been plenty of conversions over the years (nav stations, chart tables, air conditioners and head hanging lockers) but I'd guess over 90% of C25's still have two fully or partially working sinks.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I am thinking of making the sink, icebox, and stove area a larger chart table <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> With GPS, Navigational apps, Weather apps and every thing else out there, Who needs a chart table. If I did I would probably just sit at the dining table. Now maybe an area for a drop in cooler...
Scott - Where would you place a cooler? What size would you use? I've got a 36 quart unit that fits under the dinette table. It also fits nicely behind the companionway ladder and the quarterberth.
If you plan to remove everything in the galley area, than you can pretty much construct a new counter to hold whatever size chart table or cooler you want (within limits). But if you replace this, than you have to replace that, and then the other thing, etc. etc. Six months later you can have a place draw little circles and lines, or a built in box to cool your beer, and you will be ready for one _/) Glen
Honestly Bruce I was thinking if you were to gut the stove/sink area maybe build a counter top with an insulated hole that a hard shell cooler could be dropped into leaving only the top or close to the top exposed. The cooler would be removable to take home and load then just dropped into the counter top. I keep a soft sided cooler just inside the dinette area with a bungee across the walkway side of the seats. If you remember I removed the table and built a smaller one to make things more roomy. The bungee Keeps the cooler from sliding out of there when healing but it sure would be nice to get it its own space off the floor. I'm not planning on any reconstruction projects but this thread got to my hidden engineering side.
I put some boards in front of the old stove area and a cooler drops in there. Found another bigger cooler with wheels that fits. another small cooler fits in the "ice melter" and I keep my drink ice in it and "dry" refrigerated items in there.
A coupla screws hold the standard size plastic grocery bag up for a trash bag, that will not spill.
Ahhh!,,! I hoped to report on my icebox rework but with trips away and a very bad back I have missed our hot summer weather. I packed foam on the outside where I could and then used pressure pack home sealing foam where I could get the nozzle , I drilled a few holes thru from the inside to point the nozzle thru. Still not perfect maybe 70% covered on outside. Then I cut 20mm 3/4 in foam and stuck to inside of box all over reducing the internal volume. Then 2 thickness of the foam on the lid . I only used it for 2 days with warm weather and it did seem much better . Next slipping I will put the drain into a plastic bottle and only have the sink over boarding . I used 3/4 in high density refrig foam ,blue, I painted the inside to seal it from water. Now have to wait til next summer to really test it .
Ahhh!,,! I hoped to report on my icebox rework but with trips away and a very bad back I have missed our hot summer weather. I packed foam on the outside where I could and then used pressure pack home sealing foam where I could get the nozzle , I drilled a few holes thru from the inside to point the nozzle thru. Still not perfect maybe 70% covered on outside. Then I cut 20mm 3/4 in foam and stuck to inside of box all over reducing the internal volume. Then 2 thickness of the foam on the lid . I only used it for 2 days with warm weather and it did seem much better . Next slipping I will put the drain into a plastic bottle and only have the sink over boarding . I used 3/4 in high density refrig foam ,blue, I painted the inside to seal it from water. Now have to wait til next summer to really test it .
For me the ice melter is good enough. I get ice at our club house, free ice is part of membership. I had to clean out the drain, it was plugged up when I splashed. works fine now. I don't have to worry about keeping the ice in there for more than a day of sailing. Often when I go the sailing the next day I'll find there is still plenty of ice. No worries from me with the original ice box.
Ah, a subject near and dear to my heart. The po had installed a back flow valve which was designed to siphon the water out of the icebox while under sail. It worked for a bit but then stopped. I don't use that sink and found that if the stopper was properly in place, the vacuum would form and draw the melting ice out of the icebox while under sail. When that stopped working I bought a new back flow preventer which never seemed to work properly. So I took it out and have used it with no back flow preventer for a few years. I've not had a problem since, not even when heeled over on a port tack! If I want the melting ice for the cool water I simply close the seacock. When it is opened again, the ice box will drain even if not moving. Hope this helps some.
Update to my post last year on the West Marine 3/4" in-line check valve (Whale) with the annular raised ring on each end. That one leaked and thinking it was from the hose to valve end connection I tightened the hose clamp as tight as I could but it still leaked. I bought another with barbed ends and with the clean out but the ball spring was too strong and didn't drain the gravity fed water through the hose. Since the in-line West Marine check valve has the perfect gravity feed for the Catalina 25 Ice Box drain, I decided to try another one. I've got about $75 dollars in check valves at this point and I couldn't believe it; this one leaked too. Long story short, after testing the valve the leak seemed to come from the "spin weld" area except when I went to West Marine and showed the rep how it leaked, he twisted the part and found the piece is threaded and not welded. Evidently the part is threaded to be able to be cleaned and the part threads against a rubber gasket. Once tightened the part does not leak. When installing the part in the hose, the tendency is to twist the part to get it to fit and this can lessen the compression against the gasket and cause the leak. I wish they would have had that information in their instructions. It really is the perfect replacement check valve for the Catalina 25 ice box. Just remember to make sure its threaded tight before clamping.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.