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Mounting Hardware on Deck

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mtward
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/07/2012 : 09:48:51

I am getting ready to mount hardware on my deck to run lines aft to cockpit. Most of the items says requires 1/4 screws, I'm curious to what others have done. Do you use screws or drill holes and use bolts with nuts?

My worry is that I'm going to have screws that poke through with little sharp ends in the ceiling.

thanks

Michael Ward
mtward1@hotmail.com
Catalina 25 #3621 TR FK
1983

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 09/07/2012 : 10:31:30

The common practice is to drill all the way through and use bolts and nuts (with large washers on the inside as a backing plate).

If you want an 'A for effort' drill the holes oversize, fill them with epoxy, and then drill through the epoxy with the proper bit. This prevents water intrusion into the cabintop.

Either way you'll want to seal around the fitting, this is crucial if you don't do the 'overdrill & epoxy' thing.

There are a number of threads here and on other sites about mounting deck hardware. As with a lot of jobs, the quick version is 20 minutes the long version is 2 days (epoxy needs time to cure) but the long version means you'll never have to worry about it.

Good luck!

Ken

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 09/07/2012 : 10:45:19

1/4" bolts with backing large washers or plates (depending on the load), nuts, and acorn nuts to cover the sharp edge at the end of the bolt.

I strongly recommend getting the Catalina Direct mast step with the mounting points in it. Then the only holes that need to be drilled are for the turning blocks near the outside edge of the cabin, and the clutches or cam cleats that control your lines near the aft end of the cabin. If you get 3-sheave deck organizers (Gauhauer makes a nice one for the price) and 3-line clutches (Spinlock XAS) then you can easily run all of the lines that you'd want back to the deck. With the deck organizer you can experiment until you found the best routing for your needs.

When you use the 3 sheave organizer be careful with the layout. There is really only one setup that works well, and it looks like this:

That photo was before my re-rigging was complete. I currently run both halyards on the port side of the cabin, and a 3rd one that I use for the downhaul on my spinnaker. The port side doesn't have a winch, but has two reefing lines.

You should read about bedding deck hardware. I personally counterbore and use butyl tape as the sealant. There are good threads on this here and on Sailnet.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 09/07/2012 : 10:57:25

I'd advise the "over drill, fill, & re-drill" method. As said, it takes longer because you have to wait for the epoxy to cure, but as also said, you never have to worry about it again, it'll never leak. I used this method to re-mount my turning blocks for running my lines back to the cockpit. They both leaked before I did this, and not a drop since.

They make barrel nuts that are almost flush to the ceiling. You can use a step bit to drill into the epoxy for them, and cut your bolts so they draw up snugly before bottoming out on the nuts. Alternatively, you can use acorn style nuts that have a nice smooth non-noggin scarring surface, but they protrude into the cabin slightly where the barrel nuts only stick out maybe 1/16" or so.

I got my step bit from Harbor Freight: [url="http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html"]Step bit[/url]

I got my barrel nuts either from West Marine or maybe Tacoma Screw. Here's some from Jamestown Distributors to show you what I'm referring to: [url="http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1450&familyName=Barrel+Nuts+-++Chrome+Plated+Brass"]Barrel nuts[/url]

Make sure if you cut your bolt shanks you've threaded on another nut before doing so, so you can dress the threads with it after filing them down. Just makes it a lot easier to make the bolt usable after cutting.

To make sure you get nice clean holes on the exterior deck and interior overhead, drill pilot holes, then drill your larger holes (I used a 1/2" Forstner bit) from both sides. If you enclose your bit in a ziplock bag taped to the overhead, you'll trap 90+% of the dust & shavings inside the bag. I think I used an 1/8" bit for the pilot holes, but don't quote me. Just poke as small a hole in the bottom of the bag as you can get the drill bit shank through, and then kinda pook the bag up so the shavings drop to the sides as you're drilling (gravity is your friend). Works pretty well, and you don't have fiberglass & wood chips everywhere in the cabin.

If you want nice clean unobtrusive holes in the overhead, you can drill down from above till you're nearly at the cabin shell, then drill out from below with a bit that's slightly less than the diameter of the barrel nuts. Fill this void with epoxy and then drill in from the bottom with the step bit after drilling a 1/4" hole for the bolt from the top. This is what I did and it worked out pretty well. I ended up chipping out one of the holes a bit, but you'd have to know where to look to find it, and since it's still sealed with epoxy, it's not a concern.

I'd estimate that my deck was pretty close to 4" deep, so expect that when you go to mount, it's thicker than you might think.

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.