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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Raymarine transducer question

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mowrangler
1st Mate

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USA
66 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/15/2012 : 13:18:46

The boat I recently purchased came with a ST30 bidata depth and speed meter, but I think it is not working because the meter just displayed junk when I turned it on. If I buy a ST40 bidata control unit will I be able to hook it up to the existing transducers or will I have to pull the boat out of the water to replace everything at once?

Ross B
95 Catalina 250 WB #29
Moving up to 90 Catalina 28 in June 2015
Four Winds
Spokane, MO

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 07/15/2012 : 13:43:04

How do you know its not the transducer that is not working? Have you cleaned all connections?

Edited by - islander on 07/15/2012 14:02:35

Dave5041
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Response Posted - 07/15/2012 : 15:22:55

I always have to mess with the connectors on my ST-40 masthead unit at the beginning of the season, but the depth/speed unit has been reliable. You need to post your question at Raymarine.com Support. Clean and check all wire connectors in the mean time and find some way to determine whether it is the transducer or control/display unit before plunking down money. The ST-40 closes and lets in very little water when you switch out the speed/log, not so with depth transducer. The ST-30 is a legacy product, so good luck.

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mowrangler
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Response Posted - 07/15/2012 : 15:52:52

Honestly I am just trying to do a self assessment of all the things that may need work and what I can do without either having to drop the mast or pull the boat out of the water. I want to put it in the water next weekend and hope to be able to leave it there for a while so I am addressing anything that will require a boat on the flat.

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Dave5041
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Response Posted - 07/15/2012 : 17:16:12

If depth is important in the interim, a fishfinder and toilet wax ring are a fairly inexpensive option

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Voyager
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Response Posted - 07/15/2012 : 19:09:18

My Hummin' Bird fishfinder works great in my small 16 footer. And it even finds fish!

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islander
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Response Posted - 07/16/2012 : 15:23:55

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I want to put it in the water next weekend <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Well now I'm confused, If its out of the water then that is why your depth finder is not reading anything. I went to Raymarines web site and looked at the manuel for your unit. It states that the transducer can take up to 24hrs to wet out after the boat is in the water.

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OLarryR
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Response Posted - 07/17/2012 : 03:57:48

Scott....Reading the posting thread, I also got same impression that maybe it's being checked with the transducer/hull out of the water....but I dismissed that since it was not clear if that was or was not the case. Glad you mentioned it...to at least rule out that obvious factor for why a depthfinder would not be working.

I'll add one experience and believe it is supports your comment regarding potential for waiting 24 hrs for the transducer to wet out. My Humminbird depthfinder transducer is in the hull mounted with a toilet bowl wax ring glob. It hads worked flawlessly for many years. My only concern was last Spring when my boat was put back into the water after having the waterproofing job completed. It had 7 coats of Interprotect and then 2 coats of anti-fouling applied and while I did not think it would effect the transducer signal, I was anxious to check it out. The first day it was put back in and alongside the dock, I checked it out and my fishfinder was reading erratcially and sometimes with no signal. So, I was concerned. The next day, I was going to sail back to my marina and when I ready to go and started up my fishfinder, it was working fine and has done so flawlessly since the Spring. So...I suspect that small water bubbles that were covering the hull when the boat was initially put in the first day (given the new coatings and paint) initially interfered with the signal but 24 hrs later, that resolved itself.

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mowrangler
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Response Posted - 07/17/2012 : 09:20:10

Hmm... I could have swore I replied to this earlier this morning, but can't find the reply. So... we'll go again.

Yes, the boat is on the hard right now. I recognize that it won't work properly that way, however, it wasn't reading 0 or an inaccurate number - it was displaying 3 or 4 LED's lit up in random spots. Judging by the weathering on the display, I feel it is likely it could be bad. Even the salesman wouldn't make a statement that things were working and recommended that I assume things are not working until I prove otherwise. :)

That said, I am a software engineer by trade and prior to releasing software I identify all of the areas where I feel there is risk something could be broken. I'm pretty much doing the same thing with the boat- systematically going through the different subsystems and trying to identify known defects, possible defects, and known good systems. Then I put forth a collection of actions that might be needed to correct the situation ranging from simple case to worst case. For instance, last night I raised the mast for the first time and after it got dark I tried to flip on the lights... everything on the mast is dead. This is a defect that I either have to address on the hard, or risk that I may have to drop the mast to work on it after we're in the water. A major leak is an issue that would require me to pull it out of the water. Etc...

I'm just a very structured individual who like to know what my options are. If the transducers are interchangable, I could potentially swap out the head unit without having to pull the boat, and then put the new transducers on at another time when I already have to pull the boat such as closer to winter. However, if they are matched set and both have to be replaced at the same time, then I look for other mitigations such as a fish finder.

I know... I put way too much planning into this thing. I really just want to get out there and sail... :)

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OLarryR
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Response Posted - 07/17/2012 : 11:06:02

I would search the Raymarine website for your answers and/or give them a call. Apparently, your question is fairly common since a quick scan/search of their website yielded following info:

From Raymarine Website::
ST30/ST50/ST50+ Depth and Speed Display and Transducer Replacement Instructions

If you are upgrading the displays to one of the more recent systems, the following still applies as the old style transducers are compatible with the new systems. Use the information below and in the manuals provided you will be able to connect the transducers to the new system.

The ST30 and ST50/ST50+ line of instrument transducers are now discontinued. In their place, any of the current series of instrument Speed, Depth or Triducer transducers designed for Raymarine may be utilized.

To achieve this with the ST50/ST50+ displays only, you need to cut the round transducer connector off the old transducer and expose the wires. You then can connect them colour for colour to the new transducer using a suitable connection box for the area you are installing in. Once this has been done you can then use the round connector to connect the new transducer to the display.

If you are upgrading the display, cut the connector off the transducers and use 1/8 inch spade connections to connect to the tranducer to the display.

For ST30 connections you use 1/8 inch spade connections crimped onto the transducer wires.

Please be aware that some of the earlier transducers were smaller in diameter and as such the skin fittings will need to be removed and the hole made slightly larger to accomodate the new transducer housing. For compatability for the housings we recommend you contact the manufacture of the transducer, Airmar, who will be able to assist in identifying and recommending a suitable replacement.

ST50 and ST60 Depth Transducer connections are different. ST60 has 3 connections for Depth at the back of the Instrument. ST50 has 2 Depth connections at the Instrument plug where the black and screen cable cores are connected together.

Some earlier Speed transducers also did not have a temperature sensor which is now necessary for the displays to know that there is a Speed transducer attached. To work around this you attach a 10k ohm resistor to the two remaining pins in the Speed connection, Brown and White. To do this you use 1/8 inch spade connections and crimp them on to each leg of the resistor and connect to the display.

Even earlier transducers may have different colour wires. Below is a cross reference guide to which wires correspond to the current colour wires.

Edited by - on

mowrangler
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Response Posted - 07/17/2012 : 11:37:26

Awesome. That is exactly what I was looking for!

Thanks,

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islander
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Response Posted - 07/17/2012 : 16:13:40

Exactly the info I came up with also Larry but I assumed ( you know what that means) that he had already read all of this info and had checked with Raymarine.

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mowrangler
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Response Posted - 07/17/2012 : 20:00:22

Nope - I searched their knowledgebase for "ST30 Transducer" and it came up with 0 results. I just went back and searched for only the word "Transducer" and came across one with the title "ST30 to ST40 transducer compatibility", which I would have expected to come up in my initial search...

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OLarryR
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Response Posted - 07/17/2012 : 20:25:01

Agree with both you guys. The info was kind of hidden..and by searching on just "transducer", the info popped up.

It may still be a good idea to call Raymarine tech support and confirm what you have in mind to do. They may have some addl info to share on this subject... as far as compatibility/what needed to convert it for use with an ST40 display. Also, I have not looked at what an ST40 sells for but it is possible that Raymarine may offer support on the ST30 if you are interested in possibly getting it serviced.

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Dave5041
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Response Posted - 07/17/2012 : 20:49:56

I wouldn't expect it to show zero while on the hard, that would require a return signal. The device is searching for a return signal when there isn't one, the transmitted signal just dissipates in the air. You could try immersing the transducer in a deep bucket of water; A reading would confirm that a works, but no reading wouldn't necessarily mean that it doesn't work. You will save energy by waiting until you have data that indicates a problem rather than looking for a solution first.

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britinusa
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Response Posted - 07/18/2012 : 02:54:42

Possibly relevant: Our ST30 Wind Instrument went haywire a couple of months ago. The display was 'unusual' showing all sorts of weird lcd indicators and it was chirping, like emitting morse code!

I called Raymarine, and their tech told me it 'sounds like one of the buttons is stuck in'. I tapped both of the buttons with the head of a screwdriver and problem solved!

Paul

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OLarryR
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Response Posted - 07/18/2012 : 03:44:33

Paul -- Good point !!

It happens ! One day at work my PC was extremely slow to boot up and was reading erratically for quite some time. I called tech support and it turned out to be a stuck keyboard key !!

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