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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Talk about a hack job.. so I wanted to mortise the hinges..and I could get the router down and then not see where I was cutting. I added the hinges and then made the cut, so the hinges are good, but it was not fun routing it out. I'm no carpenter.
Next time I think I'll use the scroll saw to cut out a guide..
Ray in Atlanta, Ga. "Lee Key" '84 Catalina 25 Standard Rig / Fin Keel
I had to grind the end of the screws to shorten them. bedded everything in gorilla glue. I marked the area, routed out the hinge area ( mortise ) and screwed the hinges in. Removed them and then hand cut the board.
The hinges are flush, but the "flap" will not fold completely back as the hinges are too deep. It does not pull them out if you force it all the way back.
Tired when I did the job, just finished another all day wood working project.
I'm freaky about seeing into the bilge, after an adventure offshore in a hurricane. I wanna know quick and easy if I am taking on water, so the big round hole is so I can see in easily. The hinges are so I can lift up the "hatch" quickly and clean/inspect the bilge.
and hide the rum...
I will be adding a bilge pump just inside the flap and it will make it easy to inspect it and clean the screen on it.
Ahhhh. So this is sort of a "quick access" point for the bilge? I assume the longer portion of the cover will remain screwed down unless/until you need to remove it all.
Redeye, This was a nice addition. I will keep it in mind. As to the workmanship, this is an example of "power doesn't help." I am a carpenter and the easiest/best thing to do in this sort of situation would be to simply cut the recesses with a sharp chisel, even into plywood. By the time you make up a guide for the router, etc. you could cut five of these by hand. Please understand, I am in no way trying to belittle your workmanship only trying to point out to others that the "right tool for the job" applies, and often, even for professionals, the tendency is to grab some power tool when the old school way ends up being faster and better.
Dolivaw - I think I've been meaning to get a photo of our bilge plate for Red for quite some time now. About 3 years. A search of the forum and Iris blog brought nothing up for me as well.
Red - I did it a little different. No mortise.
The way you set it up may be better for your purposes, but by installing the hinges upside down, the barrel gets recessed into teh slot you cut. The bilge plate will open to about 100°. I prefer this for a couple reasons:
1. I don't need the cover opened beyond that. 2. Its sortof a warning to crew not to step in the hole if someone forgets to close the cover. 3. The cover will fall into the shut position underway if it is left open. 4. I can't run a router and it was easier to face-mount the hinges. I got fancy ones.
The downside is that the hinges are proud of the deck plate, and I live in fear of someone slicing their foot on one of the corners. It hasn't happened yet.
After having Chuck break her leg on Georgian Bay in an unrelated event during our cruise a few years back, making sure that teh hole is covered is a big deal to me. If anyone stepped into the bilge and busted their leg mid-shin, it would be disasterous.
The "quick access bilge plate" is a good upgrade if you ever need to check a bilge pump, check for leaks, etc. But it mostly stays shut since there's nothing down there worth looking at (he he)
BTW - make sure you wrap the bottles in bubble wrap or something similar - unless you make a divider to fit in the space - then you just need to pad the bottom. The well water sample bottles from The Ministry of Health are a good size for a round of drinks worth of your favorite spirit, just rinse them well. Nalgene (or similar) is also your friend. A divider is on my to-do list. without it, everything moves forward too much.
I am not a carpenter either, but wouldn't a piano hinge on the underside of the cover work? That would only leave a thin cut line on the upper side and the hinge could just be put on flush without any chiseling.
<< simply cut the recesses with a sharp chisel >>
Yepper... I agree Steve.. I was trying out a new router. I even had a mortise guide for that exact size hinge hanging up that is easy to bang in and mark the cuts.
I've gotten lazy about sharpening my chisels flat as I just destroyed my last pad on my sharpener. Hacked them up pretty bad with the grinder.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.