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my boat update

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blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/10/2012 : 18:04:20

May boat was damaged during Irene, i wasn't sure if the insurance would repair or total loss it, turns out they totaled it because repair quotes where too close to hull value

the good new is I managed to get "private owner quotes" and found that when dealing with the shop as a private owner they don't charge you for the air they breath during the repairs

so I decided to keep one more C-25 alive and fix it instead of sending it to the big C-25 dump in Vermont

this was the before

and the now (i opted for the grey rubrail, it gave the boat a more "modern" look), new ladder, new steel backed gudgeons, new light, I just need a new rudder now! (not sure which one yet, blue water? HDF? regular build?)

on this one it's interesting to see where the repair guy stopped buffing the side, you can see the reflection on the hull and the vivid blue line becoming dull where he stopped buffing... i guess i will have to finish that now :-)

i also made a new panel that goes between the lazarette and quarterberth, water had stayed in the lazarette for a while and rotted the panel (this molded lazarette is a design flaw IMO, water should be able to go in the bilge)

the during (the repair guy was told by his boss to use some sort of foam between the backing plate and the epoxy compound but he didn't like it, so this was during the removal/re-sanding of the backing plate and he only used the west epoxy thing like he usually did)

1984 C25 FK/SR #4593
Lake Champlain

Edited by - blanik on 02/10/2012 18:32:27

NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2012 : 18:24:33

Excellent!
Search for Foss balanced rudders here. Best option right now.

Edited by - NautiC25 on 02/10/2012 18:26:57

blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2012 : 18:27:33

are those made of foam? i'm not sure i want a rudder that can warp if left under direct sunlight out of the water :-/

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4017 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2012 : 18:30:53

Wow, The results are fantastic. Looks like your fiberglass guy was very talented. Looks great.

Now I hope you are going to keep the name 'Encore' It really fits her now.

Edited by - islander on 02/10/2012 18:34:09

blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2012 : 18:46:35

I'm not sure it would have come out that great without Catalina Direct... it's a luck we have to have all those parts available....

Edited by - on

av8rOC
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USA
121 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2012 : 19:28:34

Beautiful job!

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dlucier
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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2012 : 21:53:49

Amazing!

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 02/10/2012 : 21:55:52

Wow!

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dmpilc
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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 08:18:33

Very impressive. Having the right guy work on your boat makes all the difference in the world. Great save!

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JimGo
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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 08:29:09

Glad you were able to save her. When will she launch?

Edited by - on

Joe Diver
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USA
1218 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 09:07:56

Very good work....glad you were able to get her fixed up!

Edited by - on

blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 09:08:25

in the spring, Lake Champlain is still frozen but i still have work to do, i used the opportunity of having the boat in a shop with a pro to have my to-hulls changed to through-hulls, i wanted Marelon but the guy had seen boats sink because of "plastic" through-hulls in the past and didn't want anything to do with them... haha so he insisted on bronze, now i have my mast to overhaul (new sheaves, all lines, antenna, new lights and wiring, new windex, i broke my Furlex furler when unstepping the mast, a joining inner sleeve sheared when the furler bent during take down :-/ the part is 9$ so that's ok but the worst part is taking the furler apart, it's jammed tight where the eye squeezes the wedge at the end of the inner forestay... i'll work that out when it's warmer outside

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9074 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 10:05:15

If you're taking the drum apart, watch out for little plastic balls trying to escape. (Do it in a box)

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 02/11/2012 10:05:40

blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 11:07:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
 If you're taking the drum apart, watch out for little plastic balls trying to escape. (Do it in a box)
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

yes, i've read the horror stories about this, i've found the manual online for my specific furler and it's easy to take apart without disassembling the drum, it's just a matter of removing the wire stay from inside the whole thing and removing the main parts one by one, you end up with the furler apart in major components like it came from the manufacturer...

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4017 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 11:45:02

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">it's jammed tight where the eye squeezes the wedge at the end of the inner fore stay... i'll work that out when it's warmer outside<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If your talking about the wedge/eye being stuck I did this last season when I was replacing my standing rigging. The eye is screwed on and locked with Locktight. You may have to heat the eye some in order to unscrew it. When you have the eye off look down inside the eye for the little cup and remove it. It may be hard to see it because it is all deformed and looks like it is part of the eye. Screw the eye back on till it is snug then back it off 2-3 turns. Then hit the end of the eye with a hammer hard like you want to drive the eye up towards the drum. It should all come loose. Unscrew the eye and remove the wedge. You will now be able to pull the wire out of the furler. You will need new a new wedge and cup when you put it back together.

Edited by - islander on 02/11/2012 11:52:25

Tomas Kruska
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Czech Republic
522 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 13:10:32

Really nice work of that guy!

Just for my information, how much it costs that hull repair?

Edited by - on

blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 13:47:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by islander
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">it's jammed tight where the eye squeezes the wedge at the end of the inner fore stay... i'll work that out when it's warmer outside<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If your talking about the wedge/eye being stuck I did this last season when I was replacing my standing rigging. The eye is screwed on and locked with Locktight. You may have to heat the eye some in order to unscrew it. When you have the eye off look down inside the eye for the little cup and remove it. It may be hard to see it because it is all deformed and looks like it is part of the eye. Screw the eye back on till it is snug then back it off 2-3 turns. Then hit the end of the eye with a hammer hard like you want to drive the eye up towards the drum. It should all come loose. Unscrew the eye and remove the wedge. You will now be able to pull the wire out of the furler. You will need new a new wedge and cup when you put it back together.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

was yours a Furlex? i managed to remove the eye, the cup seems to be stuck hard inside because of locktite seeping there, i couldn't remove it... i tried to hit on the metal part where the wedge is squeezed with a ratchet socket that was the right size but it wasn't deep enough so it didn't have enough room to push it back to free the wedge, i'm a bit stuck here, i wouldn't mind buying another eye, wedge and cup but there are actually 3 different versions, one for the 6mm stay, one for a 7mm and one for 8mm and i have no idea which one i have... :-/ if you have a Furlex, which stay diameter do you have?

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islander
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USA
4017 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 16:29:33

I have the Furlex Model A. The fitting is a Stay-Lok. If this is what you have then The cup(former) and wedge you need is for 3/16 wire .That is the size of your Forstay wire.I think its a 5mm but the 3/16 former/wedge is what you need. I to had trouble getting the cup out but I ran a slightly smaller drill bit down in the eye. The drill bit loosened the cup up then I was able to take a small pick and bend the sides of the cup inwards and pull it out. Do this in small increments because you don't want to drill through the cup and into the eye or damage the threads. You can download the Furlex manual here
http://www.seldenmast.com/frameset.cfm?id=5564& randnum=823234032
The Stay-Lok Former cup and wedge I got from Defender
The cup part # is 608613
The wedge part #is 608627
Just put those #s into the Defender search
http://www.defender.com/
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">i tried to hit on the metal part where the wedge is squeezed with a ratchet socket that was the right size but it wasn't deep enough so it didn't have enough room to push it back to free the wedge,<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I don't think a socket will do the trick this is why you use the eye with the cup removed and unscrewed 3 turns to give it enough space to push the housing back off the wedge and wire ends. You really have to hit the eye hard while holding the housing with somthing like Vise-Grips so if you miss you don't slam your hand. If it doesn't come loose you didn't hit it hard enough, Get a bigger hammer.

Edited by - islander on 02/11/2012 17:41:08

blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 23:07:10

thanks for the info, the cup is really jammed there :-/ i'll try your trick

mine is a Type B MkII, i have the parts manual and the assembly/disassembly manual, i've check the C-25 parts and the forestay is a 3/16" indeed but it's not the forestay in my furler (i found the stock one rolled up under the quarterberth) mine looks bigger than 3/16" (from memory) and in the parts manual of the Type B MkII there are three versions of the furler one for a 6mm stay, one for a 7mm and one for an 8mm, most parts are the same for the 3 versions except for the eye, wedge and former!!! :-/ so i can't order the wedge and former until i'm sure which wire size i have (i already ordered the joint sleeve and locking springs (2 of each for a spare)

next step will be to remove the former, if i can do that i should be able to free the former and from there i will disassemble the furler and bring it home, it will be easier to determine which version i have, since stock forestay is 5mm my guess would be for a 6mm but i'll be patient and do it right...

now back to the former!!!! :-/

Edited by - blanik on 02/11/2012 23:13:42

blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 : 23:59:16

Islander, i owe you a beer! it worked right away! the former is 14 mm in diameter and 8 mm in length the small hole in the bottom is 5 mm... i should be able to find it with those data

[EDIT: turns out it's the 6mm Sta-lok eye I have, so I ordered wedges and formers]

one more question, if you removed yours it means you had to reassemble it, did you cut the stay wire at the fold where they wrap over the wedge? it says that in my manual, it removes about 5 mm of forestay wires to remove the wedge and before reassembly to cut the inner wires to match the 5 mm cut... this will increase stay tension by 5%

did you do this cut to yours?

Edited by - blanik on 02/12/2012 00:59:44

islander
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4017 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2012 : 07:41:20

I did mine because I replaced all of my standing wires so I was working with a new forstay. I layed out my old forstay on the ground hooking the top eyes to a long nail driven into the ground and then cut the new forstay wire to match the length of the old one. I cut it slightly shorter to get rid of some of the weatherhelm I had and it really helped there. I would definitely cut the smashed ends off your wire to have a nice clean end to work with.Cut only as little as you have to. Its such a small amount that the effect will be very little and if you have too much weatherhelm this will help. It won't increase the tension on the forestay because with a fixed length forstay you adjust its tension with the Backstay. I'm glad the drill worked. Do you have any rigging shops around you? You can take the Stay-Lok to him and they will have all the parts and sizes if needed. When you do put it back together definitely use some Lock Tight on the threads, You don't want this to start unscrewing when you furl and unfurl the sail!

Edit.. OK I re-read the manual and now see what you are talking about (cutting 5mm) You wont have to do this to remove the wedge. Once you get the body pushed back off the wires and wedge, the wedge will come out simply by spreading and straightening the wires a little and pulling the wedge off the wires with a pair of needle nose pliers. You don't have to cut the wires to remove the wedge. If the wedge is reluctant to come out just spread the wedge open with a small screwdriver inserted in the slot on the side of the wedge.

Edited by - islander on 02/12/2012 12:18:12

waterbaby
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USA
168 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2012 : 05:38:13

Blanik - congradulations on that repair! My boat was also damaged in Irene and I can well imagine how you felt when you first got a Encore after the storm. From the pictures I think I would have given up but now no one would ever guess that there'd been an issue now. I don't really understand this kind of magic, but it's good to know that it's possible.

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blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2012 : 07:34:12

what's funny is that, in order to keep the cost low, i asked for a structural job but without too much time spent on the finish, i specifically told the guy that if the paint colors didn't match 100% i didn't really care and not repaint it again, well that was his firs shot... even the blue line he got perfectly!

the worst thing that can happen in a repair is discovering halfway through the repair that the fiberglass has delaminated over a much bigger area than the apparent damage, i did a whole lot of screwdriver handle tapping on that boat before deciding on the repair

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