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 identify my anti-fouling?! [**UPDATE**]
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blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/06/2012 :  05:31:53  Show Profile
my anti-fouling is a bit faded but i can't identify what kind it is, here's what i know:

it's Interlux
when in the water it looks black
if i touch it while swimming it leaves a black mark on my skin
when out of the water the surface is very smooth and has a slight blueish tint
the previous owner had it for 4 years and never put any anti-fouling (so it's quite resistant but still has faded)
it was probably the same kind that was put originally in 1984 possibly by the dealer "The Moorings" in Vermont
the boat was delivered for lake Champlain
i had an Interlux pamphlet with the boat papers and VC or CSC didn't exist back then, the only paints are
Micron 22
Micron 33
Copper-Lux
Bottomkote
Super Bottomkote
Fibreglass Bottomkote
Tri-Lux TBTF
(and other racing paints)

any hind or tricks to pinpoint mine (or at least differentiate between bottomkote and micron?)

1984 C25 FK/SR #4593
Lake Champlain


Edited by - blanik on 02/11/2012 14:34:43

OLarryR
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USA
3436 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2012 :  10:38:00  Show Profile  Visit OLarryR's Homepage
If the paint comes off easily when you touch it as you described and has lasted for multiple seasons, then it is likely it is an ablative or copolymer multi-year paint.

How do yopu know it is an Interlux paint ? Anyway, it may be an Interlux Micron XT which is a copolymer multi-year paint.

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9074 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2012 :  12:28:58  Show Profile
Of the list of Interlux paints from back then, I believe only the Micron paints were ablative at that time--the kind that rub off and are effective for multiple seasons. Bottomkote was not, but has been changed since.

Interlux has a compatibility chart on their site, showing what can be applied over what and the recommended preparation. Generally, ablatives can be applied on top of hard paints, but not vice-versa. Most ablatives are safe on top of other ablatives. If you use an ablative in a color that contrasts with your black, the black can be your "signal coat" showing where and when you need some more paint--probably only every 2-3 years.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 02/06/2012 12:29:45
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blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2012 :  16:19:51  Show Profile
hi, thanks for the replies, Micron XT didn't exist back then, only 22 and 33, and checking the samples in the 1984 brochure that came with the boat papers, it would be unlikely to be anything else than Micron 22, Micron 33 (the DIY application version of Micron 22), Fiberglass Bottomkote or Trilux TBTF (not very probable as it was designed to go on aluminum hulls) so that basically leaves Micron 33 or Fiberglass Bottomkote... (i'm 99% positive it's Interlux, all the papers that came with the boat where manuals and bills of sale of the boat's equipment, no publicity there... i just wish they'd circled the one they used...)

any tricks to differentiate between those two?

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glivs
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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2012 :  17:11:32  Show Profile
Richard,
We've hailed out of Malletts Bay (The Moorings/ISS) for about 11 years now and have looked over every C25/Capri that's overwintered in the yard. Are you still located on the lake?

Cannot help you differentiate between the two Micron varieties, but can tell you that Micron and VC-17 are the most common bottom paints locally. It's a long shot, but if your boat was maintained at any time by The Moorings someone might remember what was used. Ask for Paul (owner) or Sean (#1): info at mooringsvt dot com.

More importantly though I would try to decide whether you have a copolymer or abalative and then pursue the compatibility charts as previously suggested. Both paints function as ablatives, but the copolymer has a harder finish designed to wear better when a boat is repeatedly hauled/launched over the course of a few years.

Bon chance....

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9074 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2012 :  20:14:17  Show Profile
When I used Fiberglass Bottomkote back in the '80s, it was an old-fashioned hard paint--wouldn't rub off. It has changed a few times since around 2000.

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blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 :  14:45:02  Show Profile
i finally was able to have a closer look at my hull under direct sunlight and take some pictures, it looks like the initial coat was a hard non-ablative one like Bottomkote or something similar, it's still hard, unfaded and nice, it looks though like some other product was applied later, it's copper based ablative, under the sunlight it give a more blueish finish and we can see it peeled and cracked at some places probably due to a bad paint match... (around the new through hull the guy sanded the finish and the black/blueish matte finish seems to be just copper oxidation) it could be VC-17 added at some point over a Bottomkote?





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Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 :  17:50:01  Show Profile
Looks like VC-17. I am unsure how you would determine if bottomkote was a prior layer.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2012 :  18:19:07  Show Profile
Looks like VC to me, too. Looks like a nice fresh VC job on the boat in the background.

Edited by - dlucier on 02/11/2012 18:20:49
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blanik
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Canada
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Response Posted - 02/11/2012 :  22:36:14  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ape-X</i>
<br />Looks like VC-17. I am unsure how you would determine if bottomkote was a prior layer.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

it's because i had an Interlux leaflet with the boat's accessories papers (there where only paper that related to all of the boat's accessories so i'm 99% sure it's because it's what was used) and comparing all the paints they had in 1984 it was either Micron 33 for ablative and Bottomkote for non-ablative, and since the black undercoat is still very hard and unfaded i presume it's Bottomkote and VC was added over it some years later and since VC must be applied over a prepared, clean hull that could explain the crazing and peeling

i think my course of action will be to leave it like that and let the VC fade off by itself and once it's almost all gone, i'll just have a slight sanding and i'll put a coat of something compatible with Bottomkote...

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dlucier
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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2012 :  11:02:16  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by blanik</i>
<br />...and since the black undercoat is still very hard and unfaded i presume it's Bottomkote and VC was added over it some years later<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Could the hard, black undercoat be an epoxy barrier coat?

As to the crazing and peeling, my friend experienced this with VC-17 over VC-17 in which he had areas where the paint didn't adhere properly for some reason.

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pastmember
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Response Posted - 02/12/2012 :  15:45:07  Show Profile
i think Don is right.

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blanik
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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2012 :  17:32:03  Show Profile
i think the black undercoat would be something that was put there when the boat was new, what was popular in 1984? and with the Interlux brochure i would lean towards one of those products.

to be in the line of thought with the rest of the boat it would be something the original owner would have paid the Moorings in VT to do and would not have been something out of the ordinary

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pastmember
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Response Posted - 02/12/2012 :  17:59:54  Show Profile
VC 17 is not out of the ordinary and I would think it would work very well on your lake.

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blanik
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Canada
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Response Posted - 02/12/2012 :  20:08:50  Show Profile
i know it existed in 1984 (according to Interlux) but it was in the early stages of being available commercially, it was not yet in the Interlux brochure and since the black undercoat is non-ablative and quite in a good condition it has to be something else, the copper final coat is probably VC-17 and must have been applied before 2006 (the year it was sold to the second owner, who didn't put anything in the 4 years he had the boat)

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