Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The tang that links our mainsheet to the boom failed suddenly without warning a few weeks ago. After searching this forum I learned that this is a somewhat common problem. We didn't want to replace the tang and then wait for the new one to fail, and we didn't want to drill holes in the boom, instal compression tube, etc needed for a boom bail (a common "fix" for the tang problem) so we came up with an alternate fix.
I replaced the bolt in the end of the boom with a Seadog eyebolt of the same diameter. The eyebolt fits perfectly (the collar is exactly the same diameter as the raised section in the boom end cap, it looks like the parts were purpose made for each other). The eyebolt is held in place with a washer and nylock tight enough to eliminate almost all play but still allow the eyebolt to rotate with moderate pressure.
I attached the mainsheet block to the eyebolt with a Ronstan dyneema link (about $10).
The eyebolt is rated MWL about 5000lbs. I called seadog and they said shear would be about 1/2 that. I forgot what the MWL for the dyneema link is but it's something like a gazillion pounds.
The dyneema can chafe and eventually degrade in the sun but we keep a sail cover over it when the boat is in her slip and the eyebolt is very smooth (minimum chafe). I'd rather keep an extra $10 dyneema link on hand to replace the current one if it shows any signs of wear than keep a $10 tang on hand to replace if it suddenly fails. Plus, to replace the dyneema you just loop on a new link and sail away. To replace a tang you must remove the entire end cap from the boom, remove the bolt, etc.
So far it works well but time will tell...
"Naoma" 1988 Ericson 38-200 San Diego, CA
Formerly of: "Maria T" 1987 C25 SR WK 5695 San Diego, CA L DOCK ARMADA
Nice, clean repair ! I could see many of us benefitting from your approach. Great photos showing exactly what you did. Probably not a bad idea for for me/others to consider getting the Seadog eyebolt and a Ronstan Dyneema link as an emergerncy backup in case the tang fails. What is the diameter of the Seadog eyebolt/bolt at end of the boom ?
IIRC the diameter is 3/8 but to be honest I don't recall offhand. I brought the nut from the original bolt with me to West Marine to get the correct size.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OLarryR</i> <br />Nice, clean repair ! I could see many of us benefitting from your approach. Great photos showing exactly what you did. Probably not a bad idea for for me/others to consider getting the Seadog eyebolt and a Ronstan Dyneema link as an emergerncy backup in case the tang fails. What is the diameter of the Seadog eyebolt/bolt at end of the boom ? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I think a direct connect with shackle would probably work depending on the type of block you have. In our case I didn't like how close it put the block to the end of the boom. Also, we originally had a double block with side by side sheaves that tended to jam. The dyneema link allows for MUCH more range of motion than a shackle alone which allows a more fair lead for all degrees of boom offset. Again, a shackle probably works too, at least well enough for most situations, we just preferred using the dyneema and think it is a slightly better solution for our needs.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John Russell</i> <br />Why not just attach a shackle to the eyebolt? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Do you think mounting the eyebolt horizontally as opposed to your current "vertical" position along with the Dyneema loop would allow a solid mount of the eyebolt? That would allow movement along all points of sail, and provide a good solid mount to allow the eyebolt to work as designed, with a solid base.
Maybe? Good thoughts. Now that I've used it a few times I think the bolt could be mounted firmly regardless of it's orientation. The dyneema allows plenty range of motion. I was concerned about chafe (thus let the eyebolt pivot) but I don't see any signs of chafe at all of chafe after about 10 hours of use. There are plenty of name brand blocks that now use dyneema loops attached to fixed padeyes etc with no chafe issues. In fact, that's what the Ronstan dyneema link was specifically designed for.
Those hoist rings look interesting. The link shows the 316 stainless rings in 3/8 have a MWL of around 1000lbs vs the eyebolts estimated sheer MWL of about 2500 (per SeaDog). Plus the hoist rings are around $100 each... I think they might look good though. Maybe there's another solution somewhere in the middle?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ape-X</i> <br />Do you think mounting the eyebolt horizontally as opposed to your current "vertical" position along with the Dyneema loop would allow a solid mount of the eyebolt? That would allow movement along all points of sail, and provide a good solid mount to allow the eyebolt to work as designed, with a solid base.
Your mainsheet fix looks great! Nice job. My suggestion for making the outhaul more adjustable: Move the single block with becket from the boom to the main sail clew and put a double block on the boom (like Don suggested) where the single block was. Run the outhaul line forward to a cleat on the port side of the boom (or back to the cockpit) where it can be reached easily. For my topping lift, I added a lance cleat to the boom, port side, just a bit forward of and slightly higher than the outhaul cleat. My reefing line and blocks are on the starboard side of the boom.
Thanks Don and David for your suggestions. I have a captured foot main and notice very little difference in sail shape or power from differing outhaul tension. The setup in my photos was designed by the previous owner and is sort of a "set and forget" method. My tendency is to leave it as is unless there is some compelling reason for the change? David- your setup looks very clean and I appreciate the details.
As for topping lift, mine is set up much as David describes. I have a small jam cleat on the port side of the boom in the location described. The excess line you see is just the tail from the slacked topping lift loosely coiled and stowed under a loop of elastic chord. Like David, I have my reefing blocks etc on the stbd side.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i> <br />Your mainsheet fix looks great! Nice job. My suggestion for making the outhaul more adjustable: Move the single block with becket from the boom to the main sail clew and put a double block on the boom (like Don suggested) where the single block was. Run the outhaul line forward to a cleat on the port side of the boom (or back to the cockpit) where it can be reached easily. For my topping lift, I added a lance cleat to the boom, port side, just a bit forward of and slightly higher than the outhaul cleat. My reefing line and blocks are on the starboard side of the boom.
Interesting thread. I have thought about the relative strength of the tang and was thinking more along the idea of adding a bail toward the end of the boom with hardware centered off it. This option offers a viable solution as well.
i saw somewhere an alternative rigging for the mainsheet where it comes down the mast in front of the cockpit but can also be used from the rear, anyone has the link for this?
Here is the CD link for the double ended mainsheet. I got this set up on my boat but the forward end goes all the way to mast than back to the cokpit. So if I am sailing solo I use the Aft end, if not Mainsheet trimmer works on the cabintop.
Ya know, I've been around this site for 5 years or so and I haven't really heard about much tang/mainsheet failure. I think they designed it the way it is to keep the lateral pressures at a minimum and it works pretty darn well! Keeping mine just the same.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DaveR</i> <br />Ya know, I've been around this site for 5 years or so and I haven't really heard about much tang/mainsheet failure. I think they designed it the way it is to keep the lateral pressures at a minimum and it works pretty darn well! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
...until it doesn't and your boom slams into your aft lowers with full force or knocks someone's head off. The problem I have with the tang, besides that it broke, is that there will be no warning. You won't see the fatigue until it breaks. Here are some other threads regarding the mainsheet tang failing. Probably from before your time... ;)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by JeanAndre</i> <br />Here is the CD link for the double ended mainsheet. I got this set up on my boat but the forward end goes all the way to mast than back to the cokpit. So if I am sailing solo I use the Aft end, if not Mainsheet trimmer works on the cabintop.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bigelowp</i> <br />Interesting thread. I have thought about the relative strength of the tang and was thinking more along the idea of adding a bail toward the end of the boom with hardware centered off it. This option offers a viable solution as well. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yup. A common fix. But more expensive and kind of a pain in the ass because you need a correctly sized compression tube etc to do it right. You usually don't see spectra rigging except on more expensive boats although that's starting to change.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Here are some other threads regarding the mainsheet tang failing <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
And I'm sure there's more than those two. Just like a stay, a rudder or numerous other parts in time they wear and can break. Periodical inspection. The thing that bothers me about the eye bolt is the lateral forces being put on it,but who knows, it may work as well or better than the tang over a long period of time, and only time will tell.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.