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JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/25/2011 : 08:35:41

I was out on the boat this weekend, but didn't remember to snap a picture I wanted. However, in looking at another thread over on Sailnet, I happened to see this picture, and it jogged my memory:

See the block and cleat on the boom? What do they do? I originally thought they were for an outhaul, but the block is oriented in the wrong direction.

I have a few other connectors and "things" hanging on my boom as well, and I'm trying to figure out why they are there. They are hard to see (since I haven't taken a specific picture of them), but you can make out most of them in the various photos in my [url="http://bit.ly/sm9coF"]Photobucket album[/url]. Here's probably the best shot of the bunch:

Are the "eyes" along starboard side the boom for reefing? How about the one that's underneath the boom?

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

- Jim
Formerly of 1984 C25 named Dragon Wing

NOTE: In my case, PLEASE don't confuse stars/number of posts with actual knowledge. On any topic.

Edited by - JimGo on 10/25/2011 08:51:34

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 08:44:59

Image is a broken link.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 08:46:12

OK, that should be fixed now, and I've updated my question a bit.

Edited by - JimGo on 10/25/2011 08:52:17

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3440 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 09:23:34

Jim,

maybe this sketch will help. On the right of the Forum is a link for manuals. The post '88 manual has more sketches than the pre-'88 manual and so I copied the sketch from the post '88 manual.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 09:37:27

Aha! Thanks Larry! Now that makes more sense.

And I appreciate your subtelty in telling me to "RTFM"! :)

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 09:49:44

That top picture is what I'd be inclined to call a cluster-f#%k. Just about nothing is right there.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 10:04:45

Dave, I was only looking at the block and cleat; wasn't relying on them for an actual "appropraite" configuration! I saw that I thought were lazy jacks on there, but the rear set looks really confusing, so I decided to not pay any attention to them.

Larry's picture brings up an interesting issue for me. The cleat that's in the mast track above the pop-top catch is so low that the pop-top catch can't get up high enough to catch the pop-top. I assume I can move the cleat up by loostening the two screws there; is that correct?

I think I remember seeing a "what size lines for reefing" thred a few days ago; I'll have to go back and re-read that to make sure I get the appropriate lines. I'll have to read the manual too to figure out whether those reefing lines can stay attached, or if I'm supposed to remove them when the sail isn't reefed.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 10:25:14

The reefing lines can remain in place, slightly slack, ready for action. The drawing is of a two-line system (which I prefer). With another cheek block forward on the boom, it can be a single, continuous line, which others prefer. (I like to tension the tack before the clew, to prevent pulling slugs out of the mast.)

Either one or two lines can be led from the mast back to cabintop clutches, along with the main halyard, so the whole job can be done from the cockpit. A "tack hook" at the gooseneck is an effective alternative to the line through the tack, but then you have to go to the mast to reef. There are lots of options...

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 12:14:49

Thanks Dave!

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 12:18:52

Looking at the diagram I see a forward cheek block on the boom wouldn't pull the tack down and foward. I wonder if mounting a block on the mast would work. I will be taking the line back to the cockpit.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 12:27:08

OJ, for single-line, I'd put a cheek block on the mast--for just that reason.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 10/25/2011 12:28:51

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 12:29:04

Ray, are you talking about the 2nd picture? I swear I rotated that stupid picture!

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 12:38:41

Yepper .. I had to delete that post. Everybody needs to be able to post images for help without my ridicule.

Anyhoo.. yepper you got an interesting setup there. There are a million ways to rig a sailboat.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 13:22:14

Ray, I am fairly thick skinned - ridcule, especially good natured, is OK with me.

OJ, I am thinking of putting in a single line reefing system; I'd love to see what you come up with.

Here's the reefing line discussion: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=24080

Edited by - JimGo on 10/25/2011 13:23:38

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 13:36:54

Jim,

Your signature says you have a standard rig, but your boom seems a bit low for one. Also, your boom vang appears to have too much angle, but again that could just be an optical illusion.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 14:00:59

Don,
The guys who sold me the boat said that they lowered the boom "because it made the boat faster". It should be higher, and will be in its proper place next season. I think the real problem was that the wire halyard stretched and the transition between the wire and rope would get caught on some of the rigging, so they just lowered the boom. I have a handful of "tweaks" I want to make to the boat during the winter, including:

1) Adding a solar-powered fan for ventilation;
2) Adding cam cleats for the jib sheets (the Admiral has already OK'd this, as it's what she's familiar with, too);
3) Switching to all-rope halyards;
4) A thorough inspection of the hull below the waterline;
5) Checking the electrical systems;
6) Painting the bottom;
7) Sanding and refinishing the topside teak;
8) Testing for leaks and fixing any that I find; and,
9) Patching the spiderwebs in some of the gelcoat.

You'll notice that the all-rope halyard are pretty high on the list, and the low boom is the primary reason for this.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 14:07:41

Don makes an interesting point. Is the mainsail raised to the top of the mast? If it is, methinks you have a tall rig.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 15:27:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JimGo
 3) Switching to all-rope halyards<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You may be aware that you'll need new mast-head sheaves for them. (Your originals are likely to be sun-damaged anyway.)

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 16:08:44

Dave,
Thanks for the warning. I did see that, although I still need to learn what a sheave I

Why do you guys always ask me measurement-related questions on Mondays and Tuesdays?

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 17:39:48

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JimGo
 Why do you guys always ask me measurement-related questions on Mondays and Tuesdays?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yep, Mondays and Tuesdays are always more quantitative . . . rest of the week is just qualitative.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 17:41:31

More ideas:

http://www.harken.com/rigtips/MainsailReefing.php

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 18:11:59

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OJ
Yep, Mondays and Tuesdays are always more quantitative . . . rest of the week is just qualitative.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
LOL - Thanks for that clarification! It seems like I get back from the boat and there's alway some thread that comes up the next day or two where I think "wow, if I had only measured..." or "if I had only taken a picture of...".

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 21:23:41

Switching to all rope halyards will require dropping the mast. The masthead sheaves, the rollers at the top of the mast (there are 4 of them) will have to be replaced with wider ones to handle the wider diameter of rope vs. the old wire. It's an easy swap out but the sheaves are not inexpensive, around $12 each. With a standard rig, 75' of 5/16" line should be adequate for each halyard. Actually, if you want to get more precise, 70' would likely work for the main halyard (2 x 28' length of mast = 56' plus 10' to run back to the cockpit = 66' rounded up to 70). The same can be done with the jib halyard, i.e. length of mast plus forestay plus 10 rounded up.

Edited by - on

JimGo
Admiral

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USA
962 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2011 : 21:38:14

Thanks David! That's basically what I needed to know. I want to put together my Christmas list.

The mast has to come down anyway, so it's a good time to do all of these things.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2011 : 07:41:01

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dmpilc
 The same can be done with the jib halyard...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...although with roller furling, just leave the halyard cleated on the mast all season (and skip the extra 10')

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2011 : 09:29:57

Good point, Dave! also, while the mast is down, you may want to replace the lens/light at the masthead. Odds are the lens is heavily crazed.

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