Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Sailing long distance on Lake Superior, or anywhere for that matter, can be tedious if not dangerous, in a 25 footer. I've been lucky so far and have not run into really serious weather and I would like a little more creature comfort at anchor. Sooo, a larger boat may be in order. I'm looking at Catalilna 28 and 30 footers in the 1989 to 1995 range. There's lots out there at reasonable price but I would like to get my boat up to selling snuff before I put it on the the market. She's got a lot of upgrades for racing an single handing but the original equipment is starting to need replacement - shrouds, rub rail, etc. Once that's done I'll put her up for sale.
I just had the trailer redone. New powder coat paint, new tires, new lights and wiring, new brake lines. it looks brand spanking new.
I talked to my marina people, and they did or arranged for dissembly,sandblasting, prep, replacement parts, painting and storage for around 2K. I launched in the spring and the pristine trailer was on site at haulout. Actually, I asked them when my trailer would be ready as my haulout date approached because I didn't recognize it.
I had my trailer painted at an industrial paint shop that specializes in powder coating. I did all the disassembly and painterd the wood parts - bunk boards. They sand blasted, primed, and painted. Cost was $425.00. New radial tires were $413. Lights/wiring harness and stainless braided brake lines came to just over $150.
You'll have to be careful with powder coating. The paint is dried in a kiln at 400 degrees. The heat can melt any rubber parts left on the trailer including wiring, the rubber seals on your brake system, etc. If that's already new you may want to get a regular paint job at a body shop.
Two different approaches and two very different price ranges. I have some thinking to do, but if I find the time I think I´ll go with the do it yourself way, I love the hands on part of sailing.
Do it hourself is fine if your trailer is not severy rusted. If it is, like mine was, sand blasting is the only economical way to remove it. I have tried using rust inhibiter paints and primers in the past and only gotten a year or two out of the paint job before it started rusting through again. Professional sand blasting and painting seemed the best answer since I'm planning on selling in the next two years.
The nice part about painting the trailer is that you can launch your boat and use the summer doing, or having someone do, the job. Not so with painting the boat bottom which is my next project. I may do this one myself to save some money for new rigging and rub rails.
My trailer is a fresh water used trailer and thankfully it has no severe rust, just the usual paint chip rust, but it does look pretty ugly. I think I can tackle the job of disassembling the trailer for somebody else to paint it for me. Then it´s just a new set of wheels and tires and I think it will look brand new.
I need to clean my tank too. Is there a good way to run the water etc. through the lines without having to stand there pumping the hand faucets? I wqould imagine that takes a long time to cycle a full tank through.
I discovered that if you seal a hose (that you're filling with) in the water inlet, the water pressure will force itself past the pumps. What I don't know, is will this cause damage to the pumps? My current thought is that it does not. We'll see. BTW, the water will also exit through the vent line.
I used to put the remainder of my VC17 on the rusty spots on my trailer, I figured that in a few years I would have the whole thing painted, LOL. In Salina Ks there is a galvanizing company with a tank big enough to dip an entire boat trailer. Custom powder coating seems to be a growing industry in my town, is that an option for a disassembled trailer?
Regarding sulfate reducing bacteria, they feed of off sulfates in the water supply. If your local water has sulfates the bact heave a food source. Chlorine (clorox) will cause them to "go to sleep" but it doesn't kill them. When the chlorine residule is gone they wake up, feed then pass gas. A tsp of clorox is plenty for our small water tanks. A tablespoon of clorox will sterilize a bathtub full of water. keep a slight clorine residule and problem should be solved. john on ms achsa 77 FK/SR
The company that did my trailer had a mechanic on site so they removed the wheels, hubs, etc. I had previously removed everything else - bunks, bunk support brackets, rubber brake lines, lights and wiring, then dragged it to the shop. They then painted everything including the safety chain. They would also have done the wheels but they were in good shape so I opted out.
I would think that dipping the trailer frame into a vat would be more thorough than spray painting. The big question for me would be who would do final disassembly and reassembly (wheels and hubs) and is there any additional cost for those "professional" mechanical services or could they be done by the owner on site? The alternative is to remove the wheels/hubs at home and somehow haul the frame to and from the paint shop.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.