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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Old Chuck</i> <br />Hi, now sailing a Cat. 25. Going to check out a 2001 250, wing keel, for possible purchase/upgrade. What should I look out for? regards, chuck <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Uh, jealous C25 owners?
(sorry, couldn't resist)
Seriously, though, aside from the sailing attributes that many criticize in the C250, the only thing I can think of right now is the mechanics of the steering (if it has a wheel).
Where is the boat located? I looked at a 2001 a couple of years ago, and I could tell you a few things if it's the same boat. You can email me the HIN if you want to.
The same things you'd look for in any other boat. The 250 doesn't have any specific issues based on its design. I often refer to mine as a plastic bucket with a stick. It really has no systems to speak of. Porta-potti, non-pressurized water, simple electrics, etc.
It has different sailing characteristics than the C25 but, that's not something "to look out for". It's just a different boat. It has a lot more freeboard than the C25 and some say that makes it more tender to sail. I think it's just different.
Bottom line is I think the C250 is a terrific boat. Its design is much more modern, some might call it "European", than the more traditionally styled C25.
I'd primarily look out for whether you like the feel. As John says, it's a different boat--a little lighter, a little more tender, with a little less sail carrying capacity. In light air on flat water, it might feel a little quicker... In bigger breezes it won't stand up and cut through the chop quite as well. Try to get a trial run in some varying winds and sea conditions that are representative of what you're used to.
Check the steel to deck connections of hinges, stanchions, rudder pintals, anchor line point. All tubes (from water tanks, sinks, and bilge) All shrouds, Baby stays. Boom blocks inside and out. (toughy)
Check all three lights on the mast (you're lucky to have one of three illuminate), that depth/speed gauge works, ask if and when the standing rigging was been replaced, examine the battery compartment (look for evidence of leaking and rust on the hardware), hoist the main and jib (checking for condition/tears/soiling), look for issues in the steering hardware (will the rudder turn completely to port and to starboard), if there's a trailer are the tires original...regardless of the amount of tread they should have been replaced at least once (check the bearings before towing any distance), light the galley stove, pump each of the faucets, look at the bilge for evidence of water (could mean damage in other parts of the boat), check the age of the batteries (original means you'll likely have to replace).
Anything not functional or of age should be used to negotiate a lower price.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by superbob</i> <br />if there's a trailer are the tires original...regardless of the amount of tread they should have been replaced at least once <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
When checking tires, check the valve stems. The tires on my 2002 WK were good. The valve stems were long past dead. I suppose I should have checked the air pressure with a gauge, but I was in a place that I could not do anything about it. I figured I would get the tire pressure right at my first stop. I did not make it that far. I ended up replacing four valve stems out on the highway. I could have bought four new tires on rims for what that mistake cost me.
My biggest thing I never thought of was my 68 year old [arthritic] hips and legs getting aboard from the dock and getting up onto the upper deck and reversing that process. Been doing it for over 11 years and it gets a little tougher each year.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bear</i> <br />My biggest thing I never thought of was my 68 year old [arthritic] hips and legs getting aboard from the dock and getting up onto the upper deck and reversing that process. Been doing it for over 11 years and it gets a little tougher each year. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> As far as getting aboard into the cockpit, starting around 1998 Catalina added a very nice boarding step (molded into the outer coaming) to assist boarding. The 2001 that the OP is looking at would have this feature - older boats may not.
The step up from the cockpit onto the cabin top is still a big one. Maybe someone has fabricated a small step that could assist with this?
When I go up on deck on the starboard side, I put my right foot on the coaming just under the middle stanchion, left foot first on port side. It's a very natural step up to the deck with the other foot for a short guy. I think installing another step will just get in the way, IMO.
John, The past few years I use a couple of old boat cushions on the cockpit seating area, makes that first step up a little shorter and cushions the step coming down.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.