Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I *may* drag the mast into the basement in the spring to do this on rainy days. Of course there are at least a dozen other jobs lined up so I'm not really counting on getting it done.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redeye</i> <br />... I've gotta build an a frame that will fold up into my newest itty bitty car ( handa civic ) as the first step to the project.
Pre-visualize..<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Hey Ray, If you get one of those old fashioned roof racks that attach to the car doors you could carry the long pieces easily on your Honda. I've always used our various cars like a truck after attaching a roof rack. It's best if there is a rope tied between the front bumper and the rear bumper in addition to the roof rack itself to secure the load front-and-back.
And on another note - You and I discussd those black dirt spots on the fiberglass in your cockpit near the gas tank. There are lots of good cleaners for fiberglass, but I've found that some stuff the Admiral picked up at a "dollar store" nearby works great and only costs a dollar. It is BAB-O Gel with Bleach in a green dispenser bottle. Wipe on with a wet sponge, wash off a minute later with lots of water and the black spots are all gone.
Have fun with your lights! I have to work on some lights on the Gypsy, too!
Yepper.. My problem is I haven't stopped the leak on the gas tank that is causing the spill and the vapors and the additional black dots. I changed the location of the gas bulb, which changed the length of the hose and I was waiting for the hose to settle down on the direction it is going to lay before trying to seal the connection.
I bought the starbright hull cleaner with some kinda acid in it... Add that to the list, seal that gas tank connection...
I too am about to rewire the mast. Want to do this before putting it up & inspecting the standing rigging. I have spent two half days crammmmmmed in the bottom of the dumpster rewiring the back of the fuse panel. I also added another three switch panel. I found that the three running lights blow a 7 amp fuse so I will rewire that this weekend also. How can a boat with such simple wiring be such a pain in the lower part of the anatomy?
I'll throw out a point on mast wiring that has been mentioned on these forums before, but not for a while:
People are often disturbed by the sound of wires slapping inside the mast as their boat rocks gently in the evening... There are a few ways to mitigate this, but perhaps the simplest I've heard is this: Before you pull the wires through the mast, at every two feet or so along the wires, attach three plastic wire-ties and leave the tails sticking out in three directions. I suspect you get the idea...
I'll also speculate that this could reduce the wear on insulation, due to chafing against the inside of the mast, that could lead to wire failure some years down the road...
Oldie-goldie Dave. Another I have heard is to put pipe insulation around the mast before attaching them zip-ties. Heavier, but I imagine it would work too.
Redeye - As for posting my plans... You likely are in line for the collapseable A-frame pics I have never gotten around to posting. All I have to say is 2 - 10' 2"X4"s and 3 heavy duty gate hinges. Use your imagination and big screws.
Pat, While it might be a lot of fun to sit inside the dumpster rewiring the panel, why not remove galley pump handle faucet and the five-seven screws holding the panel in on the galley side, and work on it that way?
It was not much more pleasant doing it that way, but at least I could work in a heated cabin out of the wind and rain.
I removed the pump on the galley sink, then I unscrewed a bunch of screws holding the teak board in to the bulkhead that the power panel is connected to, and it came right down. Some of the wires were a bit short, so I spliced in some additional length and could work on it at my comfort. I marked each wire's switch position with a piece of masking tape (cabin light, anchor light, accessory, bow light, running light, etc), and then I proceeded to replace all the ground returns, then ran home-runs to each of the circuits as it was possible to do so.
I rewired the cabin lights (not a simple chore), replaced the fore and aft running light leads, I added some new sections to the mast light leads going to the deck connector, rewired the VHF and added a lead to the stereo, and I completely re-did the ground buss bar. Added inline fuses and replaced a few switches that were "sticky".
May be too late, but I much preferred working on the panel INSIDE the cabin than in the fender locker, especially being February and March in CT.
Voyager. If you had seen the birds nest wiring you would have understood. I can now accomplish this a bit easier as you have described. Living in Southern California the weather wasn't a factor. All that is behind me now. Stinkpotter. Thanks for the advice on the slapping wires in the mast. I would have been one of those complainers if not for your heads-up. Thanks, Pat.
Well.. don't bother with the LED anchor light from CD. I've never seen such a micky mouse setup.. Pictures to follow.. Meanwhile.. off to order a anchor light from bebi..http://www.bebi-electronics.com/owl.html
The wiring harness is sweet. I can use the DrLED bulb on the aft light, but I would not put it up on top of the mast.
First step in teh installation process was to drop it in the lake. Hasn't worked since. Now I don't know whether my problem is in the mast wiring or in the (wet) light. Damn.
That is kinda weird, as the led assembly is supposto be filled in with resin, so the water should not have harmed it. Well.. I'll let you know how mine goes.
DrLed bulb for the Aquasignal series 25 anchor light fixture. The bulb is bigger than the fixture will hold without the included slide on brackets that result in the bulb being off center and it swings with movement. ( left showing two positions ) I will use the bulb on the aft light but not on the topmast.
I bought the same setup and decided not to use it on the top of the mast. It looked like it would rattle itself free in the first big blow. I was looking for a less unstable LED/fixture arrangement. If you know of one, pls let me know.
I'm ordering the bebi led fixture and I'll attempt to put a spike on top of it. I'll post how it goes. I'm sending their US rep in Fla a check by snail mail, and I've been in contact with them in Fiji for several days. What to trip to email someone on Fiji, it still blows my mind..
Heck they will probably be shipping out frozen fish as a business one day, or... fresh, overnight from Fiji... you get to see a picture if it flopping when you order.. They will pull it out of the water, live video and take bids..
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redeye</i> <br />DrLed bulb for the Aquasignal series 25 anchor light fixture. The bulb is bigger than the fixture will hold without the included slide on brackets that result in the bulb being off center and it swings with movement. ( left showing two positions ) I will use the bulb on the aft light but not on the topmast.
Did you mean "The bulb is smaller than the fixture" ?? If that is the case, I would simply put a bend in the metal connection that goes from the bottom plate, angled up, to meet the top end of the lamp. That would eliminate the rattle.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.