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 Trailrite Surge Brake Refurb		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Capt. Kurt
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185 Posts
Initially Posted - 05/14/2010 :  06:41:01  Show Profile
My Atwood #6000 surge brake has rust and water in the reservoir and is seized up, so I ordered replacement parts from a dealer (Champion).

http://www.championtrailers.com/atwood_brake_coupler_parts.htm

I was wondering if there was a previous thread about how to bleed and recharge the oil lines after I replace the parts? I thought I remember reading one years ago but can't find it in search.

Is it as simple as blowing it all out with compressed air, and then disconnecting the line at the drum and filling it until oil comes out by pumping the master cylinder? How do I fill the drum brake itself? The goal is to get all the air out of the system when filling it up with oil right?

Thanks,
Kurt
Edited by - Capt. Kurt on 05/14/2010 06:43:12

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts
Response Posted - 05/14/2010 :  06:55:55  Show Profile
Kurt, the Champion Trailer site has excellent documentation on a number of procedures including bleeding the lines. Here is a link:

[url="http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#technical_support"]Champion Documentation[/url]
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Capt. Kurt
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Response Posted - 05/14/2010 :  08:57:41  Show Profile
Perfect - thanks!
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Arlyn Stewart
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2980 Posts
Response Posted - 05/14/2010 :  10:21:55  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
It is rarely seen recommended by trailer supply folks because it does not help their parts business but you might consider synthetic fluid to replace with. Though it is three times as expensive as standard brake fluid and requires a complete flush prior to using, it has a major plus for surge brakes on boat trailers in that it will not absorb moisture from the air as does standard fluid. It is that moisture that is absorbed into the fluid that causes the rusting.

Standard fluid is fine for closed systems but most trailer brake systems are not closed, meaning that daily heating and cooling causes fresh air to be drawn into the master cylinder where the moisture from that air is absorbed by the brake fluid. Synthetic fluid won't absorb the moisture.

One alternative if someone does not want to use synthetic fluid is to go with a closed system with a fill cap with a bladder system. The ambient temperature pumping of the air is then isolated from the brake fluid and moisture can't be absorbed.

Another solution is to use non rusting parts such as carbon fiber or stainless cylinders.

In a nutshell, an open system with standard brake fluid will be contaminated and rusted within three years. An annual full exchange of fluid might yield five years of service but who will remember to do it. Much better is to use the synthetic fluid. My new trailer had the brakes out of service in three years and since rebuilding and using synthetic fluid, they remain fine eleven years later.
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Capt. Kurt
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Response Posted - 05/14/2010 :  16:37:26  Show Profile
Great tip Arlyn, I will definitely use synthetic brake fluid.

You are talking about Dot 5 (hydrophobic) silicone based fluid right? Or can I use a synthetic Dot 3 or Dot 4 ?

Thanks,
Kurt
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Arlyn Stewart
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2980 Posts
Response Posted - 05/15/2010 :  05:36:56  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Kurt... yes, Dot 5. The only requirement for using it is that the standard dot 3 fluid needs to be fully purged.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.