Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
As some of you know, I have moved Windsong to Oriental Harbor Marina in NC for two months, and my new slip was an unwelcome sight - narrow, fixed height, pilings on both sides with just a single, short, skinny finger on my port side that only extends as far as the spreaders. Yikes. There are no cleats, just pilings for tying lines. Making matters worse, the prevailing SW wind blows me into the slip, and I have to use reverse to keep from crashing into the end of the short slip. Ugly.
As many of you know, I am more often than not, a singlehander, and this is not an ideal situation. I have heard about people rigging a kind of "V" shaped bridle across the slip that I could drive into. It would "capture" the boat and prevent the dreaded crunch of the bow colliding with the forward end of the dock, as I hurry to get my lines attached to the pilings.
Does anyone know what this bridle is called, and how it is rigged? Also, does anyone have experience with this type of slip, and if so, what advice can you offer for quickly tying up? I spent an hour getting all my lines right, and I'm still not entirely happy. Thanks!
Michael Hetzer "Windsong" 2009 Catalina 250 WK HN984 Myrtle Beach, SC
First, the lines should be permanently attached to the outer pilings, ready to be grabbed on the way in. At least one, ideally on the side where your engine is, should be set to work as a spring-line with a loop you can drop on the winch or midship cleat, bringing you to a stop and holding you against the wind. You can then use the engine to help position the boat against the spring-line. You should probably have the same thing on both sides. It helps to have a boat-hook handy...
Once both spring-lines are hooked up, everything else is at your leisure. You should be able to put hooks on the pilings to hold the lines while you're sailing--make them something that will make it easy to lift the lines off. When leaving, you can toss the spring-lines on the hooks as you back out. They will hold you in position while you detach the bow lines and forward springs. (Easy for me to say!)
Also, in case you're wondering, I would go in bow-first (as you've suggested), mainly because the engine can control your position against the wind (in reverse) better when it's pulling the boat rather than pushing.
Easy does it! BTW, what's your tide-range? Current direction?
I have a similar problem. Remedy: 3/8" or 1/2" mooring line stretched tightly across the slip and secured. It is at a height which firmly "catches" her when necessary. It's a simple fix and one that works for my application.
Last winter I ran bowlines from the inner pilings to the forward cleats with spliced eyes. When leaving the slip, I would clip the eyes together with a short line and snaphook to provide a safety stop. Fortunately I never tested it.
I asked about tide range because if, for example, it's something like 3' (or greater), a bridle at a fixed height from the middle pilings could be problematic--you might either slide over it or have it catching your bow pulpit. But as the other Dave B noted above, it should be a last resort thing in case you miss the spring-line hookup. And with a following wind (as opposed to crossing), you should be able to slow to a stop, pick up the lines, and then drift down against them.
BTW, is there any potential of your port shroud catching the dock, particularly at low tide? You <i>do not</i> want that to happen.
My slip setup is very similar. I always dock stern in. My process is as follows:
- Have bumpers set up on the finger dock - Prior to entering marina, I have boat hook nearby and attached a pre-tide line (length ensures boat will stop moving toward the main dock) around the combing cleat that will be facing the finger dock. Also, remove the life line that, if necessary, will allow you to step off onto the finger dock. - I enter the marina and when properly lined up in the main fairway, put the motor in reverse and back down toward my slip. - Keep necessary speed to maintain control and always make the turn into my slip at around 1 knot. Usually I'm in nuetral..and just coast into the slip.
Drop the line around the finger dock cleat (could use the piling as well) and walk forward with the boat hook and grab the lines off the pilings.
Also, when backing in, if the wind is blowing my bow away from my finger dock, I already have my combing cleat line attached to the finger dock cleat, so I just put my motor in forward and my line acts as a spring line...then the bow moves into it's proper position.
For whatever reason, I feel I have more control and a better feeling for my boat speed when in reverse.
Michael: Looking again at your drawing, is the finger dock above or below your gunwale? If above, is there anything that will prevent the stanchions or shrouds from contacting it? I've witnessed a dismasting from a shroud getting caught while leaving a slip. (It was, however, a B&R-rigged Hunter--no backstay.) This could be a reason to back in--to keep the shrouds outside of the finger (in addition to easier boarding). The spring-lines on the outer pilings would still be keys. For years, I backed into a "slip" that had no outer pilings or finger dock--just boats on both sides. Sailboats with keels (or centerboards down) are not that hard to back up, and you'll have an early opportunity to grab the spring-lines from the cockpit. Just be careful about how they're routed relative to the stanchions so they don't pull on one when they go taut. The downside is the wind will be a little trickier.
Backing is complicated by the motor and rudder, however. If I backed into my slip, I'd have 2-3 feet of bow extending into the fairway. I guess I'm more comfortable with the motor out there. My circumstance is further complicated with a triangular dockbox in one of the corners forcing even more bow into the fairway if stern-to.
My current slip is pretty similar to yours, except that the prevailing wind blows me off the bulkhead, which is preferable.
1. SLOW! most folks come into their docks way too fast. 2. Given the length of your finger pier, I would recommend docking bow in. With a prevailing wind blowing you into the bulkhead, docking stern-to endangers your outboard. 3. Tie docklines on the pilings, and tie bowlines the proper length at the boat end of the lines. Ask the marina owner if you can put line catchers like [url="http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|296895|826343&id=126768"]this[/url] on your pilings. 3. As suggested above, the key line is the spring line, which should run from a piling forward to a cleat. As you come slowly into the slip, grab the spring line and slip it over a midship cleat or the winch. That will keep your boat from running into the bulkhead. 4. After the spring line is attached, attach the windward lines to bow and stern cleats. Last, attach the lee docking lines. 5. PRACTICE!
Crash Lines. Cradle lines making a v at the front of the slip to catch the boat, and fenders attached to the dock for the bow to hit, rather than the dock. I've never used them but a friend of mine recommended this. He set one up for his boat and slip that he usta sail into the slip.
<< what advice can you offer for quickly tying up >>
I've spent several hours on several occasions getting the docking lines to my liking, when the boat/slip was new.
Iffin it were me, I would add cleats to the dock. Tie loops a little bigger than the cleats on you boat on the lines and drop the loop end over your boat cleats, run the lines through the middle opening on the dock cleats and cleat the lines, adjusting as needed.
I've found the Catalina 25 cleats to be small and the lines use up to much of the cleat if I cleat to the boat.
After you do it 5 or 6 times you get a feel for what the boat/dock is doing and you balance out the line length and finally get happy with the lines.
I've got my fender lines as smaller lines and I cleat them on the boat, over the loops. I have added 2 cleats to each side of the boat to make it easier to get all my lines done, as I use double bow and aft lines with snubbers, but that is just my dock, as I get BIG boat traffic waves on my slip.
Then you can drive the boat in and just drop the lines over the cleats, and cleat your fenders.
Lots of people would say your slip is ideal for stern docking, just drive up, turn around, and back into the crash lines, dropping a forward line over an upwind forward piling on the way in.
I guess I should elaborate. Here is how I'd do it.
Add a line to the upwind side, as you are backing, from the forward cleat to the aft. Put your gloves on. Drive up to your slip and turn the boat around, and reverse the engine and drive directly toward the upwind outside piling, as you meet it push off or stop the boat as necessary and drop the line over the piling, letting it slide out as necessary to hold the front of the boat. if needed use the winch to control the line.
Power or drift into the slip and using your boat hook, push off as needed.
Power toward the aft dock and jump off with an aft line. ( or the mainsheet. )
This is an idea of how I'd do it in high wind.
If the wind is blowing you in you can just hold the forward line and push off with your boat hook on the rear, otherwise power in.
I have posted this before, but one of the big problems with and o.b. engine confined deep in the stern well is the lack of steerage without velocity. In other words slip entrance is not so much the issue as leaving the slip. This may explain your preference for docking stern in as you have some velocity when clearing. While I was very comfortable with docking a single handed Catalina 350 in a very narrow slip where the prop applied current over the rudder, I am nearly certain that the 250 is generally unfit for slip use without able bodied crew. Though I often use the end docks for loading and maintenance, I no longer use slips (unless I need fried clams at the neighboring restaurant now!). I have learned to limit myself to mooring, anchoring and end dock use only. And my marina mates have also stopped blanching with terror when ever they see me head for the boat.
We had a similar situation at our first slip, back in year one, I wasn't qualified to single hand that year, so it was not such an issue as my passenger(s) had to catch a cleat w/ a forward spring line to stop us safely, if they missed, I had about 4 feet to go into "full astern" w/ the OB, or the forward pulpit would have been smashed into the rigid seawall...fortunately we never met the wall and the following year moved to another marina w/ floating docks...ANYWAY...while we never pursued it, another boater w/ an Oday 26 used styrofoam planks - the kind used to provide buoyancy for floating docks - and built a bit of a crash cushion, as a last line of defense. It floated and was held by lines against the seawall. I never saw him need it, but it seemed pretty clever at the time.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ruachwrights</i> <br />.... I am nearly certain that the 250 is generally unfit for slip use without able bodied crew. .... Vern <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Sorry, Vern. I singlehand mine into my slip all the time. Easy-Peasy with my [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15645&whichpage=1&SearchTerms=dock-o-matic"] Dock-O-matic[/url]. OK, it's really Randy's but I use it all the time.
Yepper.. I thought I was pretty good, and then when I bought my Catalina from a Pilot ( Korea, nam, Commercial, Charter, flying citations now ) and watched him dock a few times, it changed my whole approach. He docks like he is landing an aircraft, he stays in control and makes quick decisions and accurate actions with a smile.
I'm sure he was taught well.
Funny how you can learn so much by just watching someone do something. It adds a lot to experience and book learning.
I've only crushed one bow light against a piling ( a $25 lesson!) when sliding in to the slip bow first. I have to admit I've thought of backing into the slip but haven't tried it. It would seem like the dock-o-matic would work well. Anybody want to share their experience backing into a slip with a C250? -Willy D
One thing not mentioned by the others is to have a routine with each line. Like you, I have fixed docks, a short finger pier on one side, and pilings where I hang my dock lines on wooden brackets when sailing (unless I'm going for a long cruise when I bring them along).
Routines: 1. I mark the position where I tie my dock lines to the bow cleats, stern cleats, and the winch on the coaming for my long spring line. I just put a piece of white duct tape on those spots. Then the routine of tying up becomes simpler, and I don't have to re-think the motion of the boat against the fixed dock with the wind and the tides each time.
2. Another routine I have is to use a special short line from the piling amidships to hold the boat close to the finger pier. This line has a loop at the end. I use this line together with a fender hanging off a cleat on the coaming. When approaching the dock. I drive into the slip and come close enough to grab the short line by hand or with the boat hook, slip the loop over the winch, and let the boat bounce off the fender as it comes to a stop. This short line is too short to keep attached when leaving the boat to rise and fall with the 2-foot tides, but it simplifies docking for me singlehanded. It's always the same length, it hangs on its own hook on that piling, it always allows the same motion, and the fender is always in the same spot to absorb the last little bit of momentum.
Two little tricks I use for docking at my home marina. You should be able to arrange some dock lines to make your landings easy, especially if you're going slow enough each time.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.