Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I just received my conversion kit from Arlyn and am looking for a nice sunny day to start the project. I was looking for helpful tips and/or pitfalls from those of you who have installed this conversion. Thanks, Craig
The kit is well done and the assembly is straight forward. A few things to remember:
1-Use a file to smooth any cuts or surfaces that have burs on them such as the slot in the steering arm. I also had to file the pulley mechanism that is mounted below the pedestal in order for the pulleys to fit right.
2-When you attach the wire to the steering chain be sure to orient the "loose" ends of the wires to the outside.
3-Make sure the rudder is dead centered when you mount the chain to the pedestal gear.
4-Be very attentive to the step where you use a pencil to mark where the first hole will be drilled for mounting the bar that holds the main pulleys. This is an important item.
5-For the pulley assembly that goes below the pedestal, carve/drill away slowly at the ceiling so that you don't remove too much material. You want a tight fit.
6-Make sure the steering arm extension is level with the wire assembly. My steering arm came in the transom at an angle and I needed to shimmy the aluminum extension with washers.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by cwstrang</i> <br />Randy...thanks for the tips!! By the way Boise State Alum here! Craig <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Then I take back the tips. Or, better yet, I could punch you on the chin.
Good luck with the kit. It goes together nicely. It took me two, half-days to complete the work. The tensioning mechanism is slick. Be sure you understand it before you start drilling holes. Make sure you align the outer blocks with the tensioning mechanism. If they enter or exit the sheaves with any angle at all, then at the end of the throw they'll "groan" as the cable makes contact with the walls of the sheave. Arlyn includes a bunch of extra washers to stack atop each other to level the mechanism.
I've done many upgrades to Windsong. Dollar for dollar, this was the best.
Michael.. Thanks, 2.5 days is much longer than the 4-6 hours Arlyn suggested; were you working alone? I think with this conversion and using the soft link my slip neighbors won't cringe when they see me trying to leave and return to my slip. Craig
As posted a year ago, thought had been given whether to continue to make the kits available. About five kits were on hand then and the last on hand materials were used in the kit to Craig.
A week later another request, so materials (two sizes of C-channel and stainless steel roller chain) were ordered for another dozen kits and aluminum plate were acquired locally so kits are/will be available.
btw, about sixty conversions have been installed on C250s and several have been fitted to other boats. It has been a personally gratifying project.
All: I completed my steering conversion this past weekend with help from a friend we were done in about 9 hours. I haven't tested it under sail but it looks and feel solid.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.