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Starting my 1986 C25 rehab

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treeder65
1st Mate

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USA
50 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/07/2010 : 18:55:15

I just found this site and I'm very impressed and excited by all of the useful info and all of the friendly advice and encouragement.
We bought a 1986 Catalina 25 last summer. I think it's a tall rig, but have not had any time since purchasing it to do much exploring. It seems like my first effort needs to be to wash down as much of the interior and underlying skin as possible. There is an odor to it that I think is often from the head. It's like a chemical smell and it is in the cushions and anywhere else porous enough to take it on. My thought was to empty everything out of the lazerettes and cabin and scrub it down with a bleach mixture and then try to power wash as much of the skin under the flooring as possible. It looks like there is a lot of mold and mildew down there (black and grimy). Whether it's a car, house or boat, I always like to start with a clean slate, so to speak. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. After that, I'll probably start removing, sanding and varnishing all of the wood outside and possibly look at rebuilding the dinette similar to the most recent project posted. I almost killed myself getting that thing off the boat. Lot's to do, so little time; but my wife and I, our 3 and 6 year olds and one soon to be in May are looking forward to a great summer and many days and nights spent out on the water.

Looking forward to much more reading and posting here. Thanks.

Tom

Tom
1986 C25 SR/FK #5299
Hunterdon County, NJ

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 01/07/2010 : 19:12:38

The waste hoses become permeated over time and can release that odor into the cabin. Replace the hoses often. Take rag soaked in hot water and hold it against the waste hose for a few minutes. Smell the rag. If it smells bad, replace the hoses.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 01/07/2010 : 20:36:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Happy D
 ...replace the hoses.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...with the $10/foot white stuff. Then you'll only have to replace them "occasionally".

Welcome to the community! Keep the questions coming! (To your implied question, the tall mast, not including the mast-head casting, is 30' long--2' longer than the standard rig. The luff of the mainsail is 3' longer, so the boom is a foot lower.)

To help us answer some of your questions, you could put some basic info about your boat in the "signature" in your profile so it shows up under each post, as you can see on mine and many others. (Pix optional.)

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 01/07/2010 20:40:52

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 01/07/2010 : 20:53:56

To prevent any new mold or mildew from forming, you might want to begin finding any leaks that keep part of the cabin wet or accumulate in the bilge.

There have been many postings on the Association Forum about leaks that you can search for with keywords like "window sealing", "caulk", "leaks", "bedding", etc. If you have no leaks, you're lucky.

Edited by - on

Unsinkable2
Captain

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USA
273 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2010 : 08:54:45

Welcome to the forum Tom!
When I bought my C25 I decided to replace all the plumbing hoses. The two secrets I wish I'd known when I started:
1) Most hoses can be purchased at a home improvement store (Home Depot, Lowes...)
2) Getting the hoses to fit is a challenge. A knuckle-busting, frustrating challenge. Eventually I found the perfect solution. I used a heat gun on the ends of the hoses for 5-10 seconds before sliding them onto the fittings. When they were hot, they expanded easily and slid onto the fittings, and as they cooled they tightened down nicely. Two hose clamps per fitting and I haven't ever given it a second thought - er, sniff.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2010 : 12:48:36

Welcome aboard! Take the covers off the cushions and let them air out over the winter (off the boat). Pearl was reasonably clean when I got her, but I still off loaded everything removable and cleaned for the better part of a week. A thorough cleaning not only makes work easier, but it lets you make a project list that can be prioritized. Do the essential things first, removable things can often be winter projects,and most other things can be done around sailing. I had no critical jobs, so I made making the interior nice a priority; a neat, fresh, clean interior makes everyone happy for a weekend. Don't get so caught up in improvements that you forget to sail.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2010 : 20:37:24

Welcome aboard Tom,

I bought Passage in 2007. Dave Bristle was the second previous owner. The boat was in great shape.

First winter, I removed all the brightwork, sanded and scraped it and restained with Cetol. Real bang for the buck.

Second year I scraped the bottom and replaced the wiring.

Went from this:

To this:

This year, I plan to redo the lettering, replace the polyglow and deep clean the hull. The polyglow should restore the look of the gelcoat.

I'm also planning to rebed the rail stanchions this year to eliminate the rain-water intrusion problems. I hope to be able to eliminate the tarp if I can get the stanchions fixed.

Edited by - Voyager on 01/08/2010 20:38:59

Unsinkable2
Captain

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USA
273 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2010 : 10:13:01

Bruce - excellent pictures and great work. Very inspiring.
I rebedded all my stanchions 2 years ago. I found several of the bolts to be somewhat questionable from wear, so I replaced them all at the same time. That $20 was the cheapest peace of mind I ever bought.

Edited by - on

Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2010 : 10:31:36

Cool Tom (and everybody else). Beginning February I'll take possession of a 1979 edition that needs work. I have been following these post for a few weeks now, they have already been helpful and I will do the same as you and post my7 progress. Great support group here.
Jan

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4302 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2010 : 11:34:27

I've been thinking abbout rebedding my stanchions this winter too. How hard is it to access the hardware on the inside?

Edited by - on

treeder65
1st Mate

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USA
50 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2010 : 11:43:11

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement and the suggestions/ideas. Great work and pictures Bruce. That's very motivating. Mine is alo in pretty good shape. I will probably start with the brightwork, hoses and general cleaning of the interior. The trailer will need the brakes connected, rewiring of lights and probably new tires. I have to check the load range on the existing. My wife bought me a vast array of excellent books for Christmas, including Don Casey's "This Old Boat." I have started my priority list and have my work cut out for me. At least it is just fine as is, so I won't miss out on any sailing due to the boat condition. I'll post all of the info next; I have to get the hull # and a few other items. It does have an 11hp Universal inboard and Edson pedestal wheel. Lots of stainless to clean also. Didn't realize that even 300 & 400 series would rust.

Can pics be posted directly from my computer or do I need to have them on a site and reference the url?

Thanks again.

Tom
C25 TR

Edited by - on

glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2010 : 13:25:08

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">There is an odor to it that I think is often from the head. It's like a chemical smell and it is in the cushions and anywhere else porous enough to take it on. My thought was to empty everything out of the lazerettes and cabin and scrub it down with a bleach mixture and then try to power wash as much of the skin under the flooring as possible. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Tom, same issues and solution when we purchased our boat. We aired out the cushions, scrubbed or pressure washed down all spaces between the sole/liner and hull that were accessible, and replaced all head and freshwater hoses. That was 6 years ago and have not had any odor problems since. The only surprise was the volume of "dust" that washed out from between the liner and hull into the bilge. Its origin was probably when the original fiberglass was laid up but it really smelled foul so we were glad to be rid of it.

Voyager...great looking boat! She must turn some heads in your marina.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2010 : 14:37:59

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by treeder65
 ...Can pics be posted directly from my computer or do I need to have them on a site and reference the url?...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The latter. See "How to post a picture" on the Testing forum. Essentially it involves storing somewhere like a photo site, capturing the URL, and using the

button.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 01/09/2010 14:38:40

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2010 : 20:27:50

Gary
I haven't checked all the bolts, but I think they are all accessible up under the hull to deck joint along the inside of the cabin. It is where the cabin lighting wires are tucked in under the joint.

Since the temperature here has been in the teens and twenties, I have been to the boat yard pretty infrequently lately. I hope that the January thaw hurries up and arrives soon.

Does anybody know whether epoxy filler will set and cure in thirty degree temperatures? Can you work polysulfide in these conditions?

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 16:12:02

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...with the $10/foot white stuff. Then you'll only have to replace them "occasionally". <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Funny you mention that. I found a marine store selling surplus marine sanitation hose. I got 20' for little to nothing. At least I got one good deal.
You are supposed to machine the barbs off the sanitation hose fittings so the hose just slips on, then clamp it with two hose clamps. Proper sanitation doesn't stretch much at all. It sure is nice having a lathe at home.

Edited by - on

Unsinkable2
Captain

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USA
273 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 20:26:34

Gary - accessing the stanchion bolts from inside is pretty easy. I'd recommend bringing a couple of small socket extensions. I could see them all, but it was easier to just slip the socket up there to take them off.
Also, you will need a helper to sit up top and hold the top of the bolts with a screwdriver. Once the nuts are off, the bolts don't simply pop out, you will have to give them an encouraging tap with the butt end of the ratchet because they're held in place by whatever corrosion and old bedding caulk has worked its way into the holes.
If you pick up new bolts, be sure to pick up washers and lock washers too.
If I remember right, some of the original bolts were a little on the short side, I think I replaced a lot of them with a bolt that was 1/4" longer than the original to make the job easier and give me plenty of thread to work with. The bolts are all tucked away under the lip of the deck, so having the bolt extend a 1/4" didn't create a snag hazard.
As long as I was down there, I went ahead and rebedded the pulpits and other deck hardware (cleats, etc.)

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3439 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2010 : 04:29:01

Bruce,

Many of the epoxies indicate in their instructions that they work best when temps are above 40-50F. There may be some exceptions. Good excuse at this time of year to go down to West Marine and check some labels.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2010 : 16:16:53

The weather folks are predicting a warm spell for later this week. We may hit 42 degrees! Still a little too chilly for setting epoxy if it needs to be above 50.

Isn't the reaction exothermic?

Edited by - on

skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2010 : 14:12:07

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by treeder65
 There is an odor to it that I think is often from the head. It's like a chemical smell and it is in the cushions and anywhere else porous enough to take it on.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Another item that can create a chemical type odor is the fresh water tank if you have one. Sometimes the antifreeze stuff mixed with old water and what not ends up giving off a distinct sulfur smell in this enclosed space.

Edited by - on

PCP777
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1225 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2010 : 15:56:42

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Unsinkable2
 Gary - accessing the stanchion bolts from inside is pretty easy. I'd recommend bringing a couple of small socket extensions. I could see them all, but it was easier to just slip the socket up there to take them off.
Also, you will need a helper to sit up top and hold the top of the bolts with a screwdriver. Once the nuts are off, the bolts don't simply pop out, you will have to give them an encouraging tap with the butt end of the ratchet because they're held in place by whatever corrosion and old bedding caulk has worked its way into the holes.
If you pick up new bolts, be sure to pick up washers and lock washers too.
If I remember right, some of the original bolts were a little on the short side, I think I replaced a lot of them with a bolt that was 1/4" longer than the original to make the job easier and give me plenty of thread to work with. The bolts are all tucked away under the lip of the deck, so having the bolt extend a 1/4" didn't create a snag hazard.
As long as I was down there, I went ahead and rebedded the pulpits and other deck hardware (cleats, etc.)

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This is something I need to do as well.

getting my bottom job started tomorrow.

Edited by - on

Jan Briede
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2010 : 17:56:16

question ... when you mention pressure washing the space between the sole/liner and hull ... what do you mean? Is that the area inside that is not visible and directly connected with the bilge? Thanks.
Jan

Edited by - on

treeder65
1st Mate

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USA
50 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2010 : 03:29:09

Jan,
Yes, that's my plan. If I start in the stern in a locker and move forward, any mold or mildew buildup should all run to the bilge.

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glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2010 : 19:32:23

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">when you mention pressure washing the space between the sole/liner and hull ... what do you mean? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

yes...there are a few places you can get access, aft stbd locker, bow lockers, access port behind head, bilge access...

Edited by - on

steve25
1st Mate

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USA
27 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2010 : 07:29:03

Tom,

I too just purchased my 1986 in March of '09. I've read this site before, but finally signed up. I look forward to reading about your improvements and posting some of my own.

Steve

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5895 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2010 : 07:36:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by steve25
 Tom,

I too just purchased my 1986 in March of '09. I've read this site before, but finally signed up. I look forward to reading about your improvements and posting some of my own.

Steve
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Welcome aboard Steve! We look forward to your input. The exchange of fresh ideas is what makes the forum interesting for all of us.

Edited by - on

treeder65
1st Mate

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USA
50 Posts

Response Posted - 01/17/2010 : 13:12:06

That's great Steve. I look forward to yours also. Unfortunately I am so tied up at work and with finishing a home addition that I haven't had much opportunity to do anything. I'll make sure to post when I do though.

Edited by - on

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