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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've thought about sending it to the pros, but the first estimate that I got was $45/foot for a heavily oxidized boat (so over $1200). That was a bit of sticker shock. If I could find someone to do it for $500-$600 I'd probably just pay for it at this point.
We don't have our boat in a real marina, it is a private dock with about 8 boats there, plus 10 more in neighboring slips that shares the same physical dock. So we don't have any real services to lean on there. Most of the boats kept around mine are owned by DIY folks too.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by awetmore</i> <br />. . . light sanding with 600 grit . . . I do have a cheap car buffer and wonder if that is good enough for buffing compound . . . <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> 600 grit is too aggressive - would recommend starting with 1200 then 1500.
I've been down the underpowered equipment path and it was a complete waste of time. The Makita is 9 amps and very robust. There's one grade pad for rubbing compound, another grade for polishing compound and another for glazing. I followed the sailnet link with the exception of the foam pads - I used wool for all 3 stages. <i>Using the wrong pads gives visibly different results. </i>
My previous post above says the paste wax was too difficult to use. Someone told me I was was letting it dry too long - now it's the only wax I'll use (and you can definitely see the difference between 1 coat and 2 coats.)
Have been through a lot of trial and error on this topic. The sailnet link is the best - so far. Perhaps you could try Poliglow instead of Collinite.
Like awetmore, I bought a white boat and found out it was really ivory colored.
I'm also a member of SailNet (same user name) and have been using the tips in that thread. I went with the 1000 grit paper, 3M rubbing compound, 3M polish and Collinite paste wax. I'm sold on all of them and can't believe the improvement in my 30 year old hull (neglected for probably the last 5). I had a cheap buffer that I couldn't trust and couldn't possibly afford the $200 Makita and the $80 disk (plus the three pads at $30 ea); all the supplies were close to $100 and my budget was zero. I had to do it all by hand.
It looks really good now, but I wish I'd had more time. Next year, I'll do the compound again and get a little bit deeper so I get a more uniform color. I've already hit epoxy in a couple of places, that's the risk we take.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.