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Replacing the Opening Port - A Few Questions

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Scott Shephard
Deckhand

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USA
22 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/03/2009 : 08:57:10

I have read all that I can about this, have ordered the replacement window but have a few questions:

1)Should I start on the removal of the inside piece of the window or the outside? It would seem that the outside piece will be easier to remove once the inside part is out.

2)Can I use silicone sealant of the variety used for bathrooms and such? Many have cursed 3M 5200 and though I have used that for thru-hull transducers, I would prefer to use something a little more user friendly. If the answer is "no," is there some other sealant besides 5200 that is recommended?

3)I have read that some people use a guitar string as a saw but I don't understand how that works since the inner piece has a flange that sticks out through the window. Do you use the guitar string from the outside to cut through the sealant AND the flange?

4)I assume that the outer trim piece is held in place by the sealant and nothing else. True?

5)I have removed the inner screws but am wondering what they screw in to? The window? Or is there a metal piece on the other side of the window piece that I need to be concerned about hitting if I am using a thin putty knife?

6)Do I mask the window to keep it from getting scratched or is there something else I don't understand about removing the window?

Thanks.

Edited by - Scott Shephard on 10/03/2009 12:36:37

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 10/03/2009 : 09:12:58

Scott. I wish I could help but am in the same situation as you. Please, if you can, take lots of pictures of whatever process you follow. Thanks.

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 10/06/2009 : 16:40:30

I used a very thin flexible blade putty knife sharpened well. I used wide masking tape and taped off the entire window inside and out to avoid scratching it.

The cause of my broken hinges was that I inserted the screen without first taking out a filler piece I didn't even know was there.

Sorry, after 12 yrs, I don't recall what I used to bed in the new window.

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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2009 : 11:12:50

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Scott Shephard
 
2)Can I use silicone sealant of the variety used for bathrooms and such? Many have cursed 3M 5200 and though I have used that for thru-hull transducers, I would prefer to use something a little more user friendly. If the answer is "no," is there some other sealant besides 5200 that is recommended?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The only place that 5200 belongs on a boat is the hull to deck joint. You'll never get that transducer out, and someday someone may need to. OK, just leave it in place and drill a new hole for a new transducer when you need one? What happens if it gets damaged? I believe they shouldn't sell this 5200 stuff to recreational boaters. Do NOT use it on your boat.

Also, don't use bathroom silicone, avoid the use of anything with a vinegar smell.

For the amount you need to use BoatLife material is very good stuff. Others on this board have more specific recommendations on the particular name of the individual BoatLife product. It's one of the few times it's worth paying "marine" prices.

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JohnMD
Navigator

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USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2009 : 13:20:17

Catalina Direct carries a glue/sealant made just for plexiglass windows by Dow Corning. It's the same stuff they use to hold exterior windows in office buildings. I used it when replacing two of my windows. It works great. Don't evey try 4200 or 5200. It won't work on plastic windows. I used a large flexible bread knife and patiently worked it between the surfaces.

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2009 : 15:06:43

Stu HATES 5200.

I have used 5200 for some items and have succesfully removed them for replacement later. There is a chemical called "antibond" which will release 5200. I have used it on several occasions and it works.

I agree with John. Use the Dow stuff from Catalina Direct. We used it to bed the portlights on our C22. Tape things off because it is messy to work with. Effective too.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 10/07/2009 15:07:32

Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 10/10/2009 : 08:57:35

I don't hate it, I just hate to see people use a material that is unsuitable for the application. It took years for them to develop an "antidote" to remove it. Someone recently replaced his thru hull transducers and bedded the new ones with 5200. I am SURE that he knows he'll never have to install another thru hull transducer in that location EVER again? A bit hard to get a piano wire in there, eh?

Nope, I don't hate it, maybe I just want to help folks who for some reason or another can't help themselves from themselves by using Super Glue when the proper sealant will work just fine.

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Skipper Paul
1st Mate

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USA
34 Posts

Response Posted - 10/19/2009 : 09:37:36

Scott, It has been six or seven years since I replaced my port and has been trouble free since. I will give you as much information as possible.

1. I remember it as being an intimidating project to start although once started, went well although slow and messy.

2. I used the sealing compound that the company that made the port recommended and sold. It was expensive, black and messy, but effective and has not hardened or leaked.

3. Not having a source of information at that time I removed the screws from the inside and started very slowly and carefully with a dull razor scraper working on the inside and the outside alternately. after a lot of slow and careful effort the gap was wide enough to use a putty knife. It was very hard to get started but once started, went well. You are right about that flange if I remember correctly it is held on with compound only.

4. The company does send a set of directions for removal and replacement of the port, of which most are useable but may need to be modified according to your skill level, rate of progress and tool availability.

5. Remember, go slow, don't force anything, just keep working at it and it will work.

Hope I have helped.

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