Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
A man with one watch always knows what time it is. A man with 2 is never sure...
Last season I rigged Jacklines on the boat to keep my daughter aboard when she went forward. I thought they worked well. Yesterday an experienced bluewater sailor at my marina pointed out that my lines were incorrectly rigged.
I had attached the lined to the bow cleats with bowlines, then led them aft along the side decks to the cockpit where I tied them off on the stanchions forward of the cockpit.
I agree with him that the stanchion bases probably aren't the most secure spot to tie off the lines. The real puzzler though is the shrouds. This friend suggested that the lines be moved outside the shrouds since crew falling overboard on the foredeck would be dragged, and possibly drowned when the tether reached the shrouds.
If the tether is led outside the shrouds, then the person going forward has to unclip to get around the rigging, which IMHO would defeat the purpose of the tether. Besides, we always clip into the high side, with the idea being that if you go forward, your tether will catch you before you hit the water on the leeward side.
Am I missing something here? I ask because a second person has just brought this up on another forum, and I wanted to see if opinions here matched.
I carry a length of line on my harness which allows me to clip onto the strap and ease myself back to the stern and ladder. My aft-most attachment point is at the coaming just below the primary winch. My forward-most attachment is an eyebolt attached through the deck just behind the anchor locker. The lines are led outside the standing rigging so I can slide back to the coaming, then to the stern. Fortunately I haven't had to use the system and hope I never have to.
We don't use jacklines, we use Wichard folding padeyes as the tethering point. We have two in the cockpit, one on each coaming, and that affords the crew to get anywhere in the cockpit using a 6' tether.
For going to the foredeck we attach a tether to the base of the mast. If you need to go forward you grab that tether - while still attached to your cockpit tether - and attach your harness to it. Then you unattach your cockpit tether and go forward.
Chris, let me first say I do not have a jackline system on my boat but I have read up on the subject so feel somewhat qualified to chime in. First the only thing I question re your set-up is using a bowline on the bow cleat. My understanding is attaching like our dock lines-thru the cleat opening and then around each horn of the cleat. But re inside or outside, I have also read and seen others all place them inside the rigging. Your point re unclipping is well taken. Plus my understanding is you want the lines to run center-lined of the boat. Isn't the idea to keep one from going in the water the point. There have been several posts re this subject and one of the ways, best to me, is to use one jackline and attach to the bow cleat and then wrap around the mast several times and install a padeye in the cockpit and attach the end there. The reason I like the mast setup is to keep me in the center of the boat. I do have a tether that I attach to the harness of my life vest and have enough length once at the mast to reach the bow but even is not feel safe in unclipping at the mast if necessary to go forward. The problem now, of course, is getting to the mast to clip in. Your post is a good one, for me at least, as I need to install a jackline system since I do sail solo. I do not leave the cockpit now but stuff happens, as they say and I need to be prepared. Steve A PS, Randy's use of padeys is a good one and I know he values his life more than I do mine. By that I mean a padeye costs about $50 each(X4) vs about $50 for one jackline. But please don't tell my wife this as this is one of the reasons I have gone back and forth-jackline vs padeye or combo.
I run my jacklines from the bow cleat to the stern cleat. I run them inside the shrouds - reason being I am going forward crawling inside and I don't want to unclip.
If I fell in I think all the stanchions would break off and I'd end up in the stern hanging off the stern cleat.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by piseas</i> <br /> PS, Randy's use of padeys is a good one and I know he values his life more than I do mine. By that I mean a padeye costs about $50 each(X4) vs about $50 for one jackline. But please don't tell my wife this as this is one of the reasons I have gone back and forth-jackline vs padeye or combo. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hey Steve, I value you! We have 2 padeyes in the cockpit. Tell your wife the extra $50 will make sure you don't trip on the jackline and go overboard.
Either system is good. Use one and wear a PFD when you are out in open water.
Jacklines, as I understand it, are not meant for retrieval of MOB but rather the prevention of going overboard in the first place. I'm going to check Chapmans but, I thought I've read that they should be amidships and the tether short enough to prevent a MOB. If you find yourself overboard getting dragged on a tehther at even 3 or 4 knots, you'll have a helluva time getting back aboard. You'll probably find it difficult to keep your head above water. Yes, they may be create a trip hazard but, no more so than any of the other lines laying on deck. I like Randy's solution except that I think the padeyes should be amidships as well.
As with so many things on a boat, there are preferred methods to rig jacklines, and there are practical methods. The preferred method is to rig it down the center of the boat, but my boat has a dodger, and, if I rig a jackline down the center, I can't get around my dodger. Therefore, I have to run jacklines from the bow cleats to the stern cleats, along either gunwale. When I go forward, I attach my tether to the windward jackline, in the hope that, if I fall, I'll fall down, not up and over the windward lifeline.
I wouldn't attach a jackline to a lifeline stanchion, because stanchions aren't secure enough. I don't know how strong the decking is under lifeline stanchions. I suppose it's stronger on some boats than on others. But I have seen a couple of boats on which lifeline stanchions have been pulled out of the deck, and I had a stanchion on my C25 break when a guest leaned on it, and I don't trust them. Cleats are made to take a load, and are a better connection point.
Randy, Tks! I am going out today and will seriously check on placement of padeye. I agree with John that one needs to be placed amidship. I just dont think I have the reach to go from cockpit to mast even if I had a double tether. I've got about a 2 1/2 ft arm reach even though my tether is 6ft. And wearing a PFD is my requirement from the time I board till I return to the slip. I hope we all remember this and take wearing them seriously. Steve M also brings up very good point re attaching to cleat and not stanchion. But that must have been on big guest to cause it to break. Was there alcohol involved? Steve A
Docks are full of bad info, opinions, and the like. To each their own, but really....
Lifelines inside. On my C25 I had the same issues as Steve Milby, so I only ran on the port side. Attach cleat to cleat or install a padeye with a backing plate.
If you wind upside down...thats why the tether has a release! A tether with two clips allows you to go around obstructions - on my boat the boom brake - whereas with a single clip, I either have to skinny under the boom brake or unclip and reclip on the other side.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by piseas</i> <br /> Steve M also brings up very good point re attaching to cleat and not stanchion. But that must have been on big guest to cause it to break. Was there alcohol involved? Steve A <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">He was about the same size as me. Some folks might say that's big, but not in my presence. There was no alcohol involved. He was in frail health and used it to support him as he boarded the boat. The weld on the brace broke, and then the pipe bent easily. I saw it happen, and he really didn't put much stress on it. The stanchion failed much too easily for my liking. It was a fresh water boat, so prolonged exposure to salt water didn't come into play.
<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="navy">I found this illustration that might give some ideas for placement.
I just clip and unclip but on bigger boats I've used coated wire jacklines outside the shrouds. Some people like climbing webbing because it lays flat, the only thing is the nylon deteriorates in the sun so they don't last.</font id="navy"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">
I also sail alone often in the ocean with an autopilot, and I promised my wife that I would always be tethered, even in the cockpit. So I do as Steve suggests: I run two jacklines, one from each bow cleat to each stern cleat. Definitely inside the rigging. When I tack or jibe, I move my clip to the windward line. Surprisingly, I found that this means I clip and unclip less often than if I only clipped in to leave the cockpit.
My problem with using the bow cleats is tying dock lines to them at the dock. With a jackline attached to the cleat a 1/2" dock line will not adequately seat in the horns.....at least that's my expereience. i have an anchor point amidships aft of the anchor locker. My tether is long enough to allow me to reach the bow. I use two lines because I can stay on the high side when moving forward, on any point of sail, and still be clipped in going forward.
For those of you with the mast plate, myself included, what about attaching a caribiner to one of the holes on the plate? Be an easy place to attach a tether. If you have a short tether, tie a 3/8" dockline with a loop in the end to the mast plate and let the loop hang over the companionway opening. Hook onto it if you have to go forward. No padeye or another hole in the deck!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i> <br />For those of you with the mast plate, myself included, what about attaching a caribiner to one of the holes on the plate? Be an easy place to attach a tether. If you have a short tether, tie a 3/8" dockline with a loop in the end to the mast plate and let the loop hang over the companionway opening. Hook onto it if you have to go forward. No padeye or another hole in the deck! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> David, that is exactly what we do to go forward. We have a tether attached to the mast plate and we clip onto it when we need to go forward.
David and Randy, you bring up an interesting point, I think. Sounds like you have the tether already attached to mast plate and when needed then attached to your PFD. That would be a lot easier to do and the reverse. The only downside is you are not attached while in the cockpit. I bet Randy has a 2nd tether for that! Steve A
If you run a dock line back to the cockpit, as mentioned above, it would be easy to stay tethered while in the cockpit. When not sailing solo, the helmsman would need to hook on to another line to avoid getting tangled with the crew.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by piseas</i> <br /> I bet Randy has a 2nd tether for that! Steve A <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Randy, Ive got a Wichard double-action safety hook tether and there is no way I can attached to mast plate. The holes are too small. Rats. Back to the drawing board. Steve A
I suspect that attaching to the mast plate on a C250 is a good method because the 250 doesn't have weather decks like the C25. Crew must walk over the cabin top to go foward. Too high up as far as I'm concerned. I learned very early to go forward keeping a low center of gravity to help avoid pitching over the side. I can do this on the C25's weather decks. Personally I would never buy a boat that does not have them - power or sail. They are a major safety factor when moving to the bow and back to the cockpit.
I read with great interest this thread about jacklines and tethers. I now understand the jacklines but I am not familiar with a tether. I understand what they are but don't know the exact length or fittings on each end. Can someone explain.
Also where do I attach the tether to a standard life preserver or can anyone recommend a comfortable lifevest with an attachment point.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.