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Removing head

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mcollard
1st Mate

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USA
38 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/24/2009 : 17:53:20

I am taking out the factory-original head from my boat, since I prefer to have a Porta-Potti, and have a couple questions.

What is the best thing to do with the water intake line? Do I need to keep the end of it above the water line, or is there something else I should do?

Also, am I going to have to build some sort of shelf to extend the floor for the Porta-Potti to sit on? I don't think that the area where the head sat is wide enough.

Mike Collard
Eagle
1983 TR/SK #4026

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5352 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2009 : 07:17:11

Mike, I can understand your wanting to simplify the marine sanitary device situation. Especially if the unit you have now is aged and is marginally failing.

There are a few things I would consider if I had a head.
> Do I need it? If you do short daysails, don't spend many long days out or don't do overnights, you may be able to get by fine with a porta-potty in case of emergencies.

> If I were on the fence about needing it, and could completely replace it for a reasonable price, it's not a bad thing to have.

> If I were determined to remove it, then I'd opt to completely seal the through hull fitting. More accurately, I'd remove the through-hull fitting and seal the hull.

A thru-hull fitting is a necessary evil. It is one more "chink in the armor", so if you need it, you have to maintain it so that it's more or less impossible for it to leak or fail. However, if you no longer need it, glass it over entirely.

On your question about the space for the porta-potty, the "platform" in the head area, is not very large. The platform begins an inch or two recessed from the bulkhead. It goes back about 20". The porta-potty slides into a floor bracket which holds it more or less securely. It's a really tight fit.

Can you post a picture?

Edited by - on

Tom Gauntt
Navigator

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204 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2009 : 09:53:42

Speaking of heads, I just rebuilt my Wilcox-Crittenden HeadMate. Although on the nasty scale, it wasn't a perfect "10", it was pretty close. Mike Rowe would've been in his element!

I toyed with the idea of pulling the marine head and installing a porta-potty, but that means it will be even longer before I get the boat in the water and I'm ready to go sailing, like, yesterday.

What I learned was this: Nitrile gloves rule and the Headmate is a relatively simple creature and was easily rebuilt. I doubt that it had ever been rebuilt since it had been installed and the valves were in surprisingly good condition with two notable exceptions. The keystone to whole contraption is the "Joker" valve and that one was the only one to show wear... it wouldn't close completely.

The other problem was one that really surprised me. I think I've figured out how, but I'm still amazed. The top of the pump has an intake line connected to a thru-hull used for flushing the contents. In the intake valve was wedged a very shiny stainless steel screw. The only way I can figure it got in there was through the hand sink in the head. The drain line for the head sink also ties into the same thru-hull that bring outside water in to flush the head. My guess is, somewhere in time a screw dropped into the sink, went down the drain line, cross over the tee at the thru-hull and got sucked into the head!

Anyway, all the old valves and seals were replaced and now it works like new. I will probably regret not installing a porta-potty because I will sail with three children. In a preemptive strike, I had all three out there helping with the rebuild for the olfactory sensation if nothing else and the consequences of feeding the head something that you hadn't eaten first. I think they got the idea. We'll see soon enough.

As far as the water intake line, on "Lil", the intake line is tied in to the drain for the head hand sink with a tee. You could probably just take the tee off the thru-hull valve and just use a straight connector to the valve.

Edited by - Tom Gauntt on 05/25/2009 09:54:37

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2009 : 10:42:38

If you are worried about not having enough capacity then here is an option we are considering for when we go to areas with no pumpout. Just put the bag in the toilet bowl and drop the seat so that it keeps the bag in there. When "done" tie it closed and toss at the next stop.

[url="http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/wag-bag-12-pack/24397"]Wag Bag[/url]

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2009 : 10:54:25

Tom, what were they symptoms your head was suffering from pre-repair. We have to take a bottle of water with us each time we use ours as the head will pump out, but not draw water in. From your tear-down can you suggest a plan of attack? I would rather not dig into this thing without an idea of what lies ahead.

Edited by - on

Tom Gauntt
Navigator

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204 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2009 : 11:55:03

Chris,

I had two issues with my head... that sounds funny. My head had two problems... wait, that's really not any better either. Sounds like my wife talking... Anyway, what was happening was, the head wouldn't draw water in so I had to pour water in to flush. Then, the bowl would empty, only to slowly refill.

The first problem was caused by the screw stuck in the intake valve and second problem was caused by the worn out joker valve and probably a worn flap valve.

The parts are simple and the directions are pretty good, at least for the Headmate (which I think is now owned by Thetford). The intake and bowl rinse valves as well as the flap valve in the base are really simple rubber flaps, some are weighted to stay closed. The "joker valve" looks like a big Whoopee cushion valve... it squeezes closed until you pump the handle and that forces the contents of the bowl out into the holding tank. Its purpose is to act as backwater/blackwater valve and I would guess it is the part the will catch all the clogs, hence the nickname, as in "Okay, what Joker dropped a Matchbox car in the head?"

I found the hardest part of the job was finding the correct repair kit. My local WM had one in stock, but you could probably order one from CD or Defender or Jamestown and save a few ducats. My head is only held in place by three lag screws - two in front and one in back. Remove the two in front and just loosen the one in back and the head slides out easily (after removing the hoses). I would NOT try a rebuild without removing the head from the boat. It could be done, but I found it so much easier to work on the pump on my work bench, with all my tools, water, and cleaning supplies at hand while standing upright.

As far as a plan of attack, if you are having problems with the head, a rebuild will most likely solve all your issues and prevent them from becoming worse. The only tools I used were a flat head and phillips head screwdriver, a 9/16" open end wrench, and a 9/16" socket and ratchet. I would pull the head from the boat for two reasons: 1) it's easier on your back and sanity and 2) it's much easier to clean up after. Also, chceck for leaks before you put the head back in the boat.

Here are a few links that might demystify the process.

Dan Casey's tips: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/04.htm

Parts Diagram: http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PARTS/PermanentToilets/HeadmatePartsNEW/tabid/739/Default.aspx

All in all, it was an easy do, and oddly fulfilling. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Regards,

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2009 : 12:08:19

Thanks Tom,

I found the diagram, but hadn't stumbled across Casey's article yet. This is a great help!

Edited by - on

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