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Bow / steaming light and deck light

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5353 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/11/2009 : 19:02:38

Ok, so this weekend I'm going to drop the mast and replace the steaming light.

I'd like to completely replace the fixture and replace a steaming light only with a combo steaming light plus downlights to illuminate the cockpit and cabintop.

First question: if I drop the mast to aft, is there a way to allow the furler foil to not get bent? Or is it inevitable? If so, what's the best way to safely remove the foil without bending it?

Second question: does CD offer this replacement for an '85 C25 SR SK.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2009 : 19:47:35

[url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=461"]Steaming & Halogen Deck Light 82<->98[/url]

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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4593 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2009 : 20:43:18

You will probably need to replace the wiring in the mast and the deck fitting if your boat was not originally wired for the deck light.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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Response Posted - 05/11/2009 : 20:55:24

David -- I will have to run some 14-3 down the mast for the extra circuit and use the 4th pin on the deck connector and run another line from the panel to the deck connector. Do you think I should use the "deck light" switch on the electrical panel for this purpose?

Joe -- Do you know whether this fixture uses a 12V, 10W festoon bulb for the steaming light? The halogen bulb downlight is pretty standard.

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Sloop Smitten
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Response Posted - 05/12/2009 : 07:01:34

Check the link I provided. It speaks to what type of bulbs are used. It would appear at least the deck light is halogen.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/12/2009 : 08:48:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 First question: if I drop the mast to aft, is there a way to allow the furler foil to not get bent? Or is it inevitable? If so, what's the best way to safely remove the foil without bending it?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">How many helpers will you have? I would dedicate one helper to handling the furler drum from the time you release the forestay, to keep the foil relatively straight and prevent anything from going overboard. The foil has to remain on the stay. The foil extrusions (in sections) are pretty strong, but not indestructible.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 05/12/2009 08:50:24

dmpilc
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Response Posted - 05/12/2009 : 09:06:17

Yes, that's what the deck light switch is for. On a 4-pin connector, 1 & 2 are for anchor and steaming lights, 3 is for the deck light and 4 is for ground. You may want to buy the mast wiring harness from CD.

Edited by - dmpilc on 05/12/2009 09:08:05

Voyager
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Response Posted - 05/12/2009 : 18:42:20

Dave B,
I was planning to do it with my son up front, me in the back. I planned to release the forestay and lower the mast using the jib halyard from the cockpit. I would be in the cockpit hands overhead waiting for the mast to lower enough to grab it and set it in the crutch.

My son would be on the cabin top hatch area to catch the foil, prevent the mast from going side to side, and to help walk the mast down.

Edited by - on

Moondance
Deckhand

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USA
7 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2009 : 09:39:27

I'd have two big burly guys on the mast, one holding the furling drum and one ready to 'catch' at the stern and you running the halyard from the cockpit. That way you have the burly guys handling the weight and a person at each end so nothing goes 'bang'.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 08:25:43

I had to do an emergency run out to the boat this morning, and while out there I noticed that we have one of these. The Deck light has never worked, at least I've never seen it lit I will get a new bulb and give it a try. The lens for the deck light is missing. I do not know whether this is due to operator/installer error, or construction. Also, ours is riveted to the mast, which would make wiring repairs difficult. If anyone wants photos for reference, let me know.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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3758 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 08:38:42

My new one didn't have a lens on the deck light, pretty tacky.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 09:30:45

If that's a halogen bulb, there might not be a lens--to keep it from getting too hot in that small space under the reflector.

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glen
Captain

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359 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 09:56:08

I have that light also. Dave is correct, it is a halogen, and mine also has no lens. It has worked flawless for many years now. Like I said I call it my porch light

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Prospector
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Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 10:00:10

If that's the case, wouldn't corrosion be an issue - especially for you folks with salt in the air?

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glen
Captain

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Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 10:07:35

I'm in Michigan, you know the land of the sky gray waters. So I can't answer that

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Prospector
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Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 10:30:42

Just looked up your town Glen, I musts drove past your house when I went to pick Iris up!! We have a 4 pin connector at the base of the mast. I may have to play around a bit and see what happens.

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Voyager
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5353 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 14:03:10

Isn't there some kind of grease that you can put on exposed connections (like the base of a halogen bulb) that is both electrically conductive, yet it is protective of the connectors?

Seemed as though I had seen some kind of vaseline for battery posts that was both water repellent but did not act as an insulator between the metal connections.

Just don't know what its called . . . . . .

Edited by - on

Even Chance
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393 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 15:45:33

I've had two of those lights -- no, it doesn't have a lens -- and the deck light died in both of them. I think it's a bad design, exposing the bulb socket to the elements. There are other, enclosed, lights available, but they tend to be significantly more expensive.

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Prospector
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Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 16:19:20

Bruce, I think you're thinking of "Dilectric Grease" at least I think thats what its called (too lazy to look it up)

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Voyager
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Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 20:03:53

Yes, you got it. Here's some permatex Dielectric grease. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8196
I wonder whether it's inflammable?

The ad says:

"Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is a silicone dielectric compound used to insulate, lubricate and protect electrical fittings. It protects against salt, dirt, moisture intrusion and stray current in electrical connections.

Dielectric grease extends bulb and housing life of navigation lights, masthead electrical connections, trailer lighting and harness or any electric connections exposed to moisture and the elements.

Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connector thereby insuring a strong spark in high energy engine ignition systems.

EXCELLENT FOR USE ON:
- Marine lights, navigational lights, Bulb bases
- Battery terminals
- Spark plug boots
- Ignition coil connectors
- Trailer lights, connectors and auto headlamps "

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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2009 : 21:37:02

Be careful in the application / use of dialectric grease. See reply #9 here: http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=625755

We have that combo steaming / deck light, works just fine. Don't sweat the open bottom light, it is NOT an issue.

Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 on 05/14/2009 21:38:20

glen
Captain

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359 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2009 : 09:35:42

Chris I live on Jefferson Ave in Harrison Twp. Did you pick up Iris from a residence or a marina? The 4 pin connector is all you need. If you’re lucky by removing the light and pulling gently on the wire, you may retrieve the harness with all 4 wires in it. Then figure out which is the ground and which one is not being used for a supply the other lights. Good luck and if you are ever back this way look me up --- Glen

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Even Chance
Captain

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393 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2009 : 09:52:27

There's also a model made by HellaMarine, available from Defender, which has an enclosed deck light for protection from moisture.

Edited by - Even Chance on 05/15/2009 09:56:48

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4018 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2009 : 18:17:56

If you have the black plastic connector 4 pin it has a V shaped locator on the two faces. Starting from the V going clockwise the first pin is White/Bow Light(steaming). Next pin Orange/Anchor Light. Next pin Yellow/Deck Light. Next pin Green/Ground.

Edited by - islander on 05/15/2009 18:26:09

Deric
Captain

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408 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2009 : 12:40:24

Yep,

This topic is great. My big project this coming winter is to replace the original teac based steaming light with a combo light. Correct: wiring in the mast needs to be updated to 4 wires.

I didn't know about the exposed halogen bulb. Interesting information.

Bruce,please keep us posted regarding your progress.

Best,
Deric

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5353 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2009 : 20:55:18

I climbed the mast 1/2 way up using a 20 foot ladder tied to the mast, resting on a piece of plywood on the foredeck. Worked like a charm.

I took a look at the wooden base securing the bowlight fixture to the mast. It was not immediately obvious how the wood was attached to the mast and I did not mess with it.

Luckily, I removed the bow light lens from the fixture, twisted the bulb, and the glass came right off. The base was stuck in the fixture. Arrrgh!

So, with my trusty pair of vice grips, I rotated the base CCW, and removed it. I replaced the bulb, and my buddy flipped on the light and VIOLA!

I do plan to review the wiring, and will check to see whether it is possible to run another 3 x #14 cable down the mast, but for now, there are other fish to fry.

I just got a pair of white LED lights at the local trucker outlet. I'm going to jury-rig something to see whether they will provide enough light for seeing at night.

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