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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I own a 1986 Catalina25, hull#5294 that is not equipped with shore power. Would anyone have an idea how much work would be involed to have it installed plus approximate cost?
Depends on how elaborate you want to get. On our C-22 years ago, my brother installed a regular household outlet below the aft dinette bench close to the electrical panel, cut off a section of heavy duty outdoor extension cord with the male end on it and wired it to the back of the outlet. We could then run another extension cord from the dock to the male plug. I wouldn't recommend anyone doing that today, but it worked like a charm, giving us household power when we needed it. We ran the male plug up to one of the storage locker clamshell vents. I was going to install a thru-deck connector but never got to it. A 30 amp shore power inlet like the one installed on our C-25's cockpit coaming costs $110 in WM's 2009 catalog. A 30 amp 25 ft. power cord will cost another $70. Then you have wiring to the outlets, the outlets themselves, and maybe a on/off/polarity switch, and installation labor. If our C-25 didn't have shore power already built in and I didn't need more than 1 item plugged in at a time, I would just run an extension cord from the power box on the dock to the boat, and bring it in at the gap between the companionway sliding hatch and the top board. There's usually enough room at one of the corners.
If you primarily daysail it may not be worth the effort and costs but if you do any cruising, or staying aboard the boat for a few nights at the marina, it can be a very good addition. Also, we have an onboard battery changer so that also makes a shore power connection very worthwhile. It is not a difficult project to do. I recommend a breaker on/off switch as part of the installation. It is not unusual for us to have the battery charging and something plugged into an outlet. Often the outlet is being used to recharge items like cell phones, iPods, laptops and handheld VHFs, etc. We also love to plug in a 110V heater on cold mornings.
We have a 30amp cord that we connect to one of those computer surge protector strips. We don't try to power much more than a couple of lights (rarely more than 2 at a time). Maybe a DVD player or computer. Low drain on the system. Very few amps. Cheap solution. Serves us well.
Probably not a bad idea to install a GFI outlet instead of a regular one. Of course, you have to use a three prong plug and three wire cable all the way to the outlet.
This way, if you have a ground fault, the plug cuts out and you won't get zapped.
Another really important gizmo is available at the Home Store electrical dept - a polarity indicator. Just leave it plugged in the outlet at all times, unless you need to plug something else in. Tether it to the spot.
Whenever you plug in shore power, it will tell you whether the marina or dock is wired up right or wrong. You'd be surprised!
I installed shore power last summer, took the better part of a day. here's what I used:
-30 amp inlet (Marinco 301ELB) installed in the diagonal part of the back side of the cockpit coaming on port side next to the winch. -Hole saw to install above (I think 3" dia, but the package will tell you) -Blue Sea breaker panel (single ciruit) installed in the plywood bulkhead between the galley and the lazarette just above the ice box. -20amp circuit breaker -Cover for the back of the breaker panel. -GFI 120v outlet, wood cover plate, and plastic outdoor outlet box, installed just to the right of the breaker panel. -Guest battery charger (installed in the storage space behind starboard settie back, just above batteries) -Wire - can't remember the gages- they are different between inlet and breaker panel, and between panel and outlet and battery charger. The panel instructions identifies the wire gages you need.
I wired the battery charger to the outlet, they are both on the 20amp circuit. The charger draws 6amps, so I've 14amps left, but we don't use anything that draws much. If you wanted to use a microwave oven or something, might want to go w/ a 10amp breaker for the charger and a 20amp for the outlet.
Sorry I don't have any pictures. hope this helps!
Oh, and other posters are right about the polarity- the blue sea panel has an indicator built in. I think it was the dock at Langley on Whidbey island where it came on!
I think the whole bill came in a little under $400.
Here is a good place to start. [url="http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/boatbuilder/index.htm"]U.S. Coast Guard Boatbuilders Handbook[/url] Don't get bogged down with all the calculations, read the entire regulation to get the main points. Insulation of terminals, distance without fuses, ect. You're probably not installing any permanent AC loads like refrigerators and air conditioners, unless you live in Kansas. I think it says 7' between the shore power inlet and the main fuse or breaker. Things like that are important. These regs are written for new boat construction. It could be a problem if you don’t follow these regs. I have seen surveys that say right on them “Does not meet ABYC”. A small panel with a main breaker and a few sub-breakers would be plenty on our boats.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.