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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Remote shift & throtle hookup

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Navy1
Navigator

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USA
126 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/08/2009 : 14:01:07

Hi Guys, Before boating season I want to get and install on my 2004 Honda 9.9 a remote shift & throtle settup to mount on my tiller handle. My local Honda dealer and a second supplier both told me it would cost me over $500 for the necessary hardware. Now I just read where somebody said that Yamaha supplies such a settup for their 9.8 outboard for around $100. Is this true, and if so why is there such a difference? I would be tickled as a duck in a pond of water if I could get the settup for my Honda for no more than $200. Roger

Roger Richter

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sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2009 : 21:36:19

I have the remote for my Honda which I installed. I already had the recessed box with the single control for shift and throttle. The cables were renewed and a harness purchased from Honda to bring the start and warning horn and lights forward. The outboard didn't come with a handle as it was a remote setup. After I started the project I discovered that the handle could have been installed with the remote but I don't believe they could be used together. If you look on the inside of the cover there might be attachment holes for the remote system. The price could be up there if you have to remote or less if just using the handle.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 02/11/2009 : 22:48:30

I have a remote throttle and start for our Evinrude, but no link to the tiller. (ie. We still Steer either with the rudder, or by hanging over the transom.)

The PO installed ours and it all looks good but a couple caveats do go with it.

<li>Be sure the throttle isn't placed in the cockpit in a spot where it will be kicked, tripped over, or have lines caught on it. </li>
<li>Try to make some sense of the rewiring you do on the engine. Your rewire will have about 942 wires going to approximately 563 connections on th eengine and in the boat.</li>
<li>Lookout for what common sense features you may lose by doing this. It took me all of last season to figure out where the PO had rewired the kill switch on our engine to.</li>

Now I don't say any of this to try and badmouth th ePO. We got a good boat from a good guy, I just can't follow how this (or a lot of other electric stuff) on our particular boat was run. As I have said before, electricity is the bane of my existance.

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jbkayaker
Captain

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USA
299 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2009 : 19:12:45

I have a 1999 Catalina 250WK that I bought last Summer. The Nissan 9.8 hp remote controls are mounted on the wheel pedestal. It looks great but the problem is that tilting up the motor puts a sharp bend in the push-pull control cables that does not completely come out when the motor is put down. I have to grab hold and straighten the cables or the controls are really stiff. Even after straightening the controls are somewhat stiff. I expect the cables will fatigue and break far short of normal life expectancy. I don't know any way to solve this problem other than using a vertical lifting mechanism to get my motor out of the water instead of tilting it up.

Jim Butler

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jbkayaker
Captain

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USA
299 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2009 : 19:18:49

P.S. My outboard has both the motor mounted throttle and shift and the pedestal mounted duplicates. I always use the pedestal mounted shift because the motor mounted shift is too hard to move. I sometimes use the handle throttle to get the motor completely down to idle. And I use the handle to turn the motor for sharper turns.

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528
Navigator

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USA
181 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2009 : 08:02:23

JB, you are right about the premature cable fatigue. I recently replaced my cables and fabbed a new motor bracket to relieve the strain. I disconnect the cables from the bracket and raise the motor. The cables rotate on a single point with no strain. I used 1" flat aluminum stock to fab the bracket. The throttle cable is mounted to the bracket and the shift cable is simply taped to the other cable. This is due to a shorter bracket which also allows the motor to turn further to starboard. My system has evolved over the last 3 years, and I am now happy with the result.

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Navy1
Navigator

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USA
126 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2009 : 13:47:45

Has anybody bought a shift - throttle conversion kit from Honda and installed it themselves, preferably on a tiller handle like I have? And if so, what did you pay for the kit itself, from Honda, without any labor or installation charge? Thanks - Roger

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jbkayaker
Captain

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USA
299 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2009 : 14:30:47

Dave (528),
From the motor my cables go thru a fume vent type thru fitting that would be about half way from the floor to the stainless steel pipe in your picture. From inside the bulkhead they go down and under the cockpit floor and up thru the pedestal. All those curves contribute to the stiffness of the controls I suppose. When your cables go out of the picture to the top right do they go up the outside of the pedestal ? Does your motor stay always pointed straight ahead ?

Please show some more pictures or a sketch of your cable mount design. I will either go with something like your design or with a vertical motor lifter.

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528
Navigator

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USA
181 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2009 : 22:14:00

Jim, the cables loop up, then down and straight into the stern through a strain relief fitting. From there they turn 90 degrees up into the pedestal. I'll post a pic tomorrow. When I bought the boat it had 14' cables with a larger than necessary loop outside. I replaced them with 11' with no adverse operation. The kink at the motor will create excess resistance and premature failure.

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jbkayaker
Captain

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USA
299 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2009 : 08:31:34

Dave,
I wonder if the cables from the motor could be run around the back of the motor then turning 180º back to the transom. It would take some innovative connections to the motor to reverse them like that.

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528
Navigator

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USA
181 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2009 : 09:34:19

I considered that, but in the heat of the battle, was afraid using reversed controls would be bad in Dock vs Boat! It seemed too complicated to reverse engineer the connection to work as intended.

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 02/16/2009 : 10:53:37

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I wonder if the cables from the motor could be run around the back of the motor then turning 180º back to the transom. It would take some innovative connections to the motor to reverse them like that.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

There is someone on the forum who did just that. Very nice installation. I'll do some searching and see if I can relocate it. The controls came out the transom and looped up and to the outboard.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.