Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My outboard had a little run in with my rudder. We must have hit a rockand the kickup rudder got popped up and it brushed against my rudder, I have two questions: First how do I get the rudder of with fixed wheel Edson steering and if it is just nicked what is the best way to fix it Dan
Let dry for 24 hours. Remove a little on the edges of the damage with a dremel tool. Clean thouroughly with Acetone. Use Marine Tex to fill in and sand. Repaint.
Note on Marine Tex: thin applications don't bond as well as thicker ones. If you can fill this in one shot, then go ahead. MarineTex needs at least 13C to react, but I suggest 16-18C. Press down on your MarineTex when filling in making sure no bubbles are created inside. To mix, I use a ZipLoc bag, put my 2 parts remove all the air and mix my squeezing the bag every which way with my thumbs and fingers. No bubbles and all you need to do is clip off one of the bag corners and you got a pastery chef applicator. Your mix should last about 15 minutes before hardening.
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 02/02/2009 17:55:35
Hi Dan... The rudder can be removed either the blade and rudder head together or the easier, the blade only. Unscrew the compression handle and remove the bolt and hubs and the blade comes out.
The fix is easy with some expoxy resin, sanding and gel coat repair.
Mask tape around the area to be repaired so that your sanding tools don't cause more area damage. Buff the repair area with a two step process, first sand it slightly with 80 grit paper and then chemically buff and clean it with acetone and a rag.
If the gouges are deep, use some glass fiber mat strips and paint on some epoxy, lay in a strip and paint it wet. Build enough thickness to reach the finish surface and don't fret about the edges of the strips that stick out.
When working with epoxy, one is at a disadvantage the first few times as the temp and humidity play on the amount of catalyst to mix. For this reason, mix only small batches of a couple of oz. A few of the small bath size dixie cups do fine. Needed will be a few pair of disposable rubber gloves, some pop sickle stirring sticks, a cheap brush and some lacquer thinner.
I'd suggest a trip to Harbor Freight and pick up one of their hand body sanders. It is a sanding tool about 3"x16" with an aluminum plate base having clamping mechanisms for the sanding paper. Get a pack of 80 grit strips for it. This will sand the new glass to shape on the rudder. Sand only down to touching the masking tape and roll the sander with the curvature. Any shiny spots on the new resin denotes additional filling needed.
The remaining sanding will be done wet starting with 150 grit and ending with 400. Use any sanding block. I simply use a bucket of water and dip the block about every 10-15 seconds.
I've had good luck with small repairs using West Marines one part gel coat repair, which needs no kicker. Just paint it on and let dry overnight. Get the smallest container of it as possible, a half pint will go a long way. I can't remember if West Marine has more than one shade of white but the one I bought matches Catalina's gel coat well. Be careful to sand it quite wet and for the rudder, start with 200 and work up in increments until 600 grit. After the 200, the masking tape can be removed so that the last stages feather the repaired area to the native gelcoat.
Pulled the rudder out and saw that my prop had taken a few bites out of my rudder. There wasnt penetration into the core so it seems like it will be an easy fix. I have marine tex and epoxy at the house, but I think I will try the marinetex after sanding and feathering and then an acetone rinse. then I plan to sand and then repaint with interlux micron. I tried really hard to unscrew the blade from the casting but couldnt get the bolt to come loose, so i just ended up liftng the entire assembly off the pintles after loosening the Edson pin from the casting head.
Another rudder question. I have the first generation rudder. Who has upgraded the rudder with Catalina? My rudder looses traction in the water on a good heel and swings to lee. I think upgrading to a second generation rudder would help. I have heard about some of the members getting catalina to send a replacement rudder for the cost of shipping. Who was that???? Dan
I think the replacement for shipping cost may be history but Catalina does seem helpful and will sell a replacement at cost. They however will want to sell you the 3rd generation, which is a fixed blade.
If wanting to stay with the beaching rudder, they may sell a second generation if you press and will only do so without any warranty. That is the route I'd go as well as do the rudder head mods I outline on my web site.
If going with a 3rd, they will again want to sell you the third short version for your water ballast... it is inadequate for aggressive sailing venues but does moderately well on local lakes. It has better control than the 1st generation but not as much as the 2nd. If sailing aggressive waters, tell them you want the third long version they fit to the wing keel. Again, you may have to waive warranty. It will require shipping the rudder after launch, but it will provide the needed control.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.