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Bedding Spinloks

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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/23/2008 : 12:35:33

I have to install two new splinloks (going to use one for the outhaul and the other for the topping lift, both of those lines currently are secured at the boom. Moving them aft!)

My existing spinloks are staying, so I want to put the new ones on the outside of each of the existing ones.

That area of the cabin top has none-skid (the rubber grip stuff)

Any suggestions on how best to mount them???

Thanks

Paul

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.

Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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4479 Posts

Response Posted - 12/23/2008 : 16:04:00

Paul,
Are you talking about line clutches? I looked at Spinlock's site & they have lots of hardware, so I'm not sure exactly what you're installing. Our boat doesn't have any rubberized non-skid, so take this with a grain of salt. It would seem like you'd never get the kind of seal you want if you're not mounting the hardware directly on the deck, can you cut away the non-skid to get to the deck? If so, then it's reasonably straight forward. Don Casey has a pretty good section on this in his book on deck repair. I recommend the book if you don't already have it.

I won't go through all the nitty gritty details, but basically choose your location, drill oversized holes, backfill with epoxy, re-drill for hardware, caulk & go sailing.

Make sure to drill the fiberglass from both sides so you get nice clean holes for both. I used a smaller pilot hole to mark the location before using a hole saw to cut the larger holes. Casey recommends about 1/8" clearance around your mounting hardware for the epoxy you'll fill the holes with. Mix up the epoxy with fillers, I like West Systems 404 for maximum strength and high cyclic loads. Tape off the bottom of the holes & fill with the epoxy making sure you've got no bubbles. Casey recommends first filling the holes with unfettered epoxy, draining it into a cup, then re-using it to mix with fillers. This is probably a better procedure as it guarantees you get a nice epoxy coating to the core, however I've never actually done this with the exception of my king post fix (see below), and no leaks so far. I use a baggie with a corner cut off like a pastry bag to squirt it in. Try to fill from the bottom up. Let the epoxy cure over night, then drill for your hardware making sure to stay inside the epoxy, you don't want to expose the core to water intrusion. I'm pretty sure that's what cracked the inside of my liner around the king post. Water got in and froze over the winter, the expanding ice cracked the liner. Fixing the leaky king post fitting was a fun job.

Next, fit your hardware on the deck, and outline closely with masking tape, the idea is the minimize the amount of caulk that's exposed to UV. This may not be necessary if you've made a tight fitting cut in your non-skid, if so, maybe just tape around the non-skid to keep the caulk off? Once you've set your hardware in place, done the tightening down to the caulk on the next day, use a razor knife to trim away any excess caulk around the base of the hardware leaving a vertical wall of caulk, then peel away the rest with the tape. Voila, a nice looking installation, no leaks, and should last the life of the boat.

You can get the interior SS 1/4-20 nuts from WM to match the factory ones, but they're expensive, about $2/ea as I remember. Frank sent me a bunch of 10-32's, which I'd let you have, but I think they're too small. You need to measure the 1/4-20 bolts to a pretty tight tolerance to make them fit correctly, but it's short work with a Dremel to do so. The deck's about 3" thick there, I think. Since your load is perpendicular to the bolts, you probably don't need a backing plate beyond the flanged nuts mentioned above (Catalina didn't use any on my boat, but your construction might be different, so follow what Mr. Butler did inside yours).

Hope this helps.

Edited by - on

britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 12/23/2008 : 16:50:19

thanks David,
Yes, I'm referring to line clutches.

Not sure about how to go about cutting the existing non skid away. Exacto knife around the silouette of the new clutch?

And yes, I have casey's book (I'll be making a couple of ding fixes before new year.)

Paul

Edited by - on

johnsonp
Admiral

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606 Posts

Response Posted - 12/23/2008 : 20:16:25

Paul
This is where I installed my rope clutches.
I used silicone for sealing and used same type of bolting hardware as original rope clutches......don't forget to drill counter bore hole first inside cabin using a cleverly designed template.

I wouldn't cut away non skid section under the clutch.....as recall the original was not.

http://picasaweb.google.com/1dbpaul/Wert?authkey=neKcXWlrtts#

paulj

Edited by - johnsonp on 12/23/2008 20:21:54

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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3704 Posts

Response Posted - 12/23/2008 : 20:41:04

Call me lazy but I don't do all the larger hole then epoxy then small hole stuff although that is certainly a good approach. I drill the right sized hole and then tape it off underneath. Fill the hole with penetrating epoxy and let it soak for 10-15 minutes and then drain it. Let that dry and then bed the fixture with 4200 (glob some around the hole) and call it good. The penetrating epoxy seals the core and the 4200 gives it even more waterproofing. I figure that Catalina does not overdrill either. I would not cut away the anti-skid.

Edited by - on

britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 12/23/2008 : 21:03:42

Thanks for the pics PaulJ.

I notice that you have the vang line running though a deck organizer and clutch, but it also seems to run through the cam cleat on the vang assembly? Is that an issue or does it angle down sharply enough so as not to engage in the cams????

Randy, I'll probably go both ways, leave the non-skid in place but overdrill and fill the holes. I have followed the overdrill and fill method on every hole in the hull or upper deck.

As for a template, I was thinking of drilling holes in a piece of wood on the drill press, then using that as a drill guide when drilling down into the cabin. Will try to take time out to take pics.

Thanks.

Paul

Edited by - on

Russ.Johnson
Commodore

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USA
842 Posts

Response Posted - 12/23/2008 : 21:06:17

Paul,

I mounted another single Spinlock next to my original.
See this related post for my picture --> [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13441"]Rope Clutch[/url]

There is a void under the deck.
The original rope clutch has Gelcoat > Fiberglass > Balsa wood > Interior Liner.
Between the rope clutch and the jib car track there is a void.
it has Gelcoat > Fiberglass > about 1/2 inch of air > Interior Liner.

When I drilled my new holes they were right on the edge of the Balsa wood.
My new bolts can't be very tight or I'll crack the interior liner.
You might want to contact Catalina to get the right measurements.
Don't make the same mistake.

Russ C250-WB #793

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 12/23/2008 : 21:49:51

Drilling from both sides is good... I drilled from the top with a tiny bit, and then used the hole below to center the larger bit to drill up. I then used a larger bit above, with the drill in reverse so it wouldn't bite too hard, to bevel the top of the hole so more caulk could surround the bolt.

I probably wouldn't remove that rubber nonskid, but I'm suspicious that my standard bedding caulk, polysulfide (Boatlife), is not compatible. Life Seal might be better. I almost never use pure silicone sealer because every little smear will create a stain that gets darker as the sun works on it, and it's almost impossible to remove.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 12/23/2008 21:51:15

johnsonp
Admiral

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606 Posts

Response Posted - 12/24/2008 : 19:33:21

britinusa
Are you going to use barrel nuts?

paulj

Edited by - on

britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 12/24/2008 : 19:47:21

paulj, I'm hoping to match the existing internal hardware. I think they are screws in tubes, will probably take one out to the store to match it.

Paul

Edited by - on

johnsonp
Admiral

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606 Posts

Response Posted - 12/24/2008 : 20:52:55

Paul
There is a bolt length issue involved with barrel nuts along with the thickness of the deck.
When necessary, I used a combination of cutting the bolts and adding extra washers under the barrel nuts.
If cutting the bolts chamfer the ends will sure help.
Good luck on the counterbore.

If I was going to do this again I would use longer bolts, add washers and acorn nuts, but sometimes you want to match the existing, even if it takes you twice as long to complete the job.

Any more detail and I would have to stand next to you, while you perform this task.

paulj

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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4479 Posts

Response Posted - 12/24/2008 : 21:24:23

Here are the [url="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/4166/377%20710/0/barrel%20nuts/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=barrel%20nuts&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=barrel%20nuts&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5000&subdeptNum=13&classNum=371"]barrel nuts[/url] you'll need, about $3/each.

Here they are [url="http://www.fisheriessupply.com/online/ln_menu/product.asp/mode/1/product_id/13311/Ntt/barrel+nuts/N/0/Dx/mode+matchallpartial/Nty/1/R/2624/D/barrel+nuts/catalog_name/FISCO/Ntx/mode+matchpartial+rel+Inactive/act/A01/Ntk/All"]at Fisheries[/url] for about half that price.

Edited by - on

johnsonp
Admiral

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USA
606 Posts

Response Posted - 12/25/2008 : 13:48:37

I notice that you have the vang line running though a deck organizer and clutch, but it also seems to run through the cam cleat on the vang assembly? Is that an issue or does it angle down sharply enough so as not to engage in the cams????

Paul

I used the vang line for a secret cruising control activity.
Disclosing this fuction might bring about harm or death or someother thing to others.

paulj

Edited by - on

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