Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
hey are, but just to keep the excess from flapping or billowing. Tying with minimal to no tension on the sail will be neater, just don't use them to take the load from the sail to the boom - the clew and tack are all you need to have under tension.
My sail has 3 small lines installed through the 3 reef point holes and about 2' of line on each side. The lines are held in place with overhand knots on each side of the sail.
When reefing a mainsail with a fixed foot, the lines are tied around the bottom of the boom, but with a loose-footed main like mine, they are tied under the reefed mainsail and above the boom, for neatness only, not to hold the sail down.
The black line is my forward reef line and the blue line is my aft reefing line. The black line is tied off on the Starboard side of the mast on my '89, goes up through the tack reef cringle and down the port side of the mast.
I use two-line also, but I use my cunningham for the tack, that way I have 3/1 advantage at the tack and can wail on it to get the draft as far forward as I need.
Something to point out, the reef points between tack and clew are intended only to get the flakes of sail into a bundle and out of the way. They are not intended to be snugged down and carry the load at the foot, and doing so can damage the sail, either by permanently stretching the cloth or even tearing it. A reefed sail is a loose-footed sail.
Tighten them evenly. Try not to leave pressure on one. I ripped a sail once with a reef point unevenly tight.
Tie up the outhaul and cunningham first. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If you were to run the line from the clew down to the block on the boom and then aft, you'll have less strain on the intermediate lines. It will provide for a tighter reef with a little less billowing of the sail.
<<< If you were to run the line from the clew down to the block on the boom and then aft, you'll have less strain on the intermediate lines. It will provide for a tighter reef with a little less billowing of the sail. >>>
Yepper that would be better, and especially if I had a real topping lift rigged. I'll get around to searching or starting up the discussion for a lift rigging that would give me a flag halyard also. Line would run forward and cleat, and I'd kinda wanted to add a clam cleat to the boom.
Q: Anybody added a clam cleat to the boom with rivets?
I use a jam cleat which I screwed onto my boom. I drilled pilot holes then used self tapping SS screws. I put silicone on the screws to avoid galvanic action. (dissimilar metals)
If you use screws remember not to over-tighten. Metal screws will easily strip aluminum. (learned at the school of hard knocks)
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.