Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I need to share this with you all so you never have to experience what I just went through. I’ll start at the beginning. A few months ago I posted in the C250 forum about a helmsman seat that I built. Here is a photo of the seat:
Here is a close-up of the aft port corner. See how beautiful the stainless steel looks? Look at the shaft collar at the upper right. I was so proud.
Well, imagine my shock when decommissioning the Nauti Duck for the winter when I found that very shaft collar had turned to this!
Yes, it was rusted. I was beside myself. Fortunately the Admiral was home and able to calm me down. I don’t know what I would have done without her.
I immediately removed the shaft collar and three others like it. I found a site online that sells genuine stainless steel collars. Here they are:
Anyway, I’m OK now. Please learn from my mistake. If only one person avoids rust then this will have been worth it.
Oh, sorry about the picture quality. I was getting a lot of flash reflection off our stainless steel kitchen counter.
We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.
I'm sure you're feeling traumatized now but this too shall pass. Remember, there's no shame in seeking out professional help at trying times like these.
See what happens when there's no teak on the boat? If you had teak on the boat, you'd have never seen the rust. You'd have been too busy taking care of thet teak.
In April I purchased a new balanced rudder from CD. I received it in early may and put it on my boat, whcih was still on the hard. within two weeks the pintals were corroding/rusting -- during the two weeks their was only one rain event and the boat was still on the hard and not splashed. As frustrating as it seems, it all boils down to the quality of the stainless (BTW my old 26 year old rudder pintals look like new). I called the people who made the rudder -- Idasailor -- and they said "that sometimes happens". I didn't bother calling CD as they always say "you must have done something . . . " I also have a 17 ft center console outboard that is only a few years old -- the stainless requires constant attention so it does not turn brown - again, they just don't make things like they used to! Keep awatchfull eye on newer metal parts, keep them polished and your seat will continue to get rave reviews for years!
When picking up SS bolts, nuts and washers from the bins at Home Depot or even at West Marine, sometimes people put them back in the wrong bins and it is very easy to get the wrong combo of materials installed.
Then there is the concern over just what SS was used. In most instances, the SS is of 18/8 (18% Chromium and about 8% Nickel). Generally, if you are getting 18/8 SS components, it will be okay in a marine environment. Components start using a SS designation with chromium contents of just 10% but that is not sufficient for marine environments. I would think components bought at a marine store and if in the right bins would be of an 18/8 composition. Even better would be if it was specificed as 304L or 316L which indicates "L" for low carbon content. But 304 and 316 are 18/8 SS even if not with the "L" and chances are would be fine. A high chrome SS works well in marine environmants because the chrome forms a passive film layer over the part but something made out of a lower chrome SS will not form that barrier.
Stainless Steel also does not like stagnant seawater conditions. I have seen a number of instances where SS became pitted being exposed to those conditions. This would nortmally happen in crevices in which saltwater collects and touches a SS component.
Since I am surrounded by love I can admit what brought me such shame and guilt - I suspected the shaft collars were not stainless when I bought them. Please, I am being tough enough on myself for this. Somehow I thought they would not rust. Wrong. The new stainless ones should fix the problems.
Don't get me going on teak! One of the best things about the C250 is no exterior teak. Still, I admit that well cared for teak, on someone else's boat, is a treat to look at.
Finally, as far as aluminum goes, it is indeed a fine marine material so long as it is not permanently affixed to the hull. Mast - OK. Boom - OK. Gin Pole - OK. That's basically the approved use of aluminum on a boat.
Well...anodized aluminum is fine. But if not anodized then the aluminum does not exactly corrode but oxidizes which is just as bad. I ran into this issue when I was installing my solar panel. I was making the support brackets myself and deicded to order flat SS and flat Aluminum stcok from a materials website. The SS material would have been best to use but I felt it would be too hard for me to work with - I needed to put a 90 degree bend in it and then drill some holes. I found the Aluminum (not really a surprise) easier to work with but I had not ordered anodized aluminum. So, I used a premium grade Rustoleum primer (2 costs) and enamel (2 coats). Then thought of another issue regarding the SS studs and nut that were to fit into the aluminum channels of the solar panel and also used on the support bracket. Galvanically, Aluminum and SS are on opposite ends of the galvanic chart and the aluminum solar panel channel may corrode where the SS stud/nut touches the channel - So I treated the stud and nuts to primer and enamel as well. So far (almost 2 years), those brackets and the panel channels show no signs of deterioration.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.