Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have not been happy with the boom vang setup on the C250. The cam cleat is way too low. I didn’t feel like taking a Dremel to it or turning the blocks upside down. So I came up with another solution. I made a short pennant at the local home improvement store using coated wire. It elevates the vang up and away from the mast base and allows complete control from the cockpit. I have used it several times in various conditions and it works great. Now that I know it works I will get some stainless steel parts from WM and make up a permanent one:
We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.
Randy, I simply removed the cam cleat and led the vang line thru the port blocks and back to the port clutch. I assume you're running your jib halyard thru the block at the base of the mast and back to the port clutch. Not necessary with our 110 furling jib. I'll post a pic tomorrow.
Randy, when you get a permanent one made, I would recommend adding thimbles to the wire eyes.
I just added the same feature, but I used a piece of line with stop knots in each end. I totally a agree with your concept of using a wire pennant for the job.
Re the port side mastfoot block, I assume it's your single line reefing line?
Frank, your solution is a good one too. The port mastfoot block is for our first reef. We also have a furler. Paul, I do plan to add thimbles to the new version.
I like the solid boom kicker that you have. Was that on your boat when you bought it or did you put it on. I have reefed just once on our boat and we have the hook on the backstay to hold the boom with the sail down but it is no good for reefing.
Peter, we added the Boomkicker and we love it! Got it from sailboatowners.com chandlery. They have a C250-specific model that also includes a gooseneck fitting that prevents the boom from rotating. The Boomkicker kit is easy to install.
Randy, I lead my reef line through the starboard block, then aft to the inboard clutch. That way I can handle the main halyard and reef line from the same dual clutches. The port clutch is for my vang line. Pics to follow BTW, I don't have a second reef system installed. If I needed a second reef, I no go sailin'
John, I think it is 15" but I'll measure and post later this week.
Frank, I get your point but what do you do if the wind builds AFTER you are already sailing?
Also, Frank please show in your photo how you get the reef to the starboard. Do you use the starboard sheeves in the boom and your blocks on the starboard side of the sail? I do like the idea of having the main halyard and the first reef next to eachother.
"Since my reefing line runs outside the boom, along the port side, I have a block attached at the tack, so I lead the line thru it, up to the luff cringle block, then down to a block at the base of the mast, over to the starboard attached block, and back to the inboard starboard clutch. Now even though the reefing line is on the port side of the boom, I can handle the reefing line and main halyard from the dual starboard clutches."
Randy, I copied your mod using a piece of line about 12" long. Worked great, but agreed that it needs to be a bit longer. Will make a wire strop before next trip.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.