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Centerboard Removal

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Andiamo
Deckhand

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USA
17 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/21/2007 : 11:30:59

I am trying to remove the centerboard while the boat is on the trailer. I am following the Keith D. removal procedure but I can't see how it can work. I had an inch of clearance off of the front cross member and have raised the aft end of the centerboard until it bottoms in the top of the centerboard trunk. The process (as I understand it) is to raise the aft part of the centerboard, for the centerboard to pivot on the cross member and the forward portion of the centerboard will drop out of the truck. I have done that but I still need at least 3 or 4 more inches before the forward portion of the centerboard will drop out of the truck and can be brought forward. I have a standard Trailrite trailer so I don't think I have anything unique.

I would appreciate any advice on what I may be doing wrong.

I would also apprecate any techniques for jacking the boat up 4 or 5 inches because that is what I think I will have to do.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob & Cathy Murphy
"Andiamo"
1994 WB

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Bob & Cathy Murphy
"Andiamo"
1994 WB

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2007 : 12:18:36

Bob, when I repaird my centeboard, I had the same issue as yourself. In the end I was able to do the repair without removing the center board.

However, while at it, I spent a while figuring out how to do exactly what you just asked.

My potential solution is as follows.

Use a the trailer jack to raise the front of the trailer.
Put a block under the bow bunk vertical support and slacken off the bolts securing the bunk support to the trailer.
Now lower the front of the trailer, thus raising the bow a few inches. Retighten the bow bunk support bolts.
Repeat this proceedure with each of the other supports, just raising the boat off the trailer by a an inch or so max with each move. So you would go around the bouy a few times.

I think you only need to raise the boat about 3 inches off the trailer in order to get the board out.

The reason I suggest raising the trailer rather than directly trying to raise the bunk supports is two fold: a) You're not trying to punch a hole in the hull by trying to raise the entire boat on a single point. (during launch / retrieval the loading on the bunks is clearly not even until the boat is out of the water so I figure it's ok to use the method I describe, that's what I would do.) and b) it's probably easier to manage.

Hope that helps.

Paul.

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2007 : 13:32:53

When removing mine... more clearance was needed that required some extra jacking.

I used the following steps.
<ul><li>Jack the front of the trailer up until the back cross member bottoms out</li><li>Block the bow to the ground</li><li>Release trailer to a relaxed position</li><li>Jack front of the trailer down from the bow </li></ul>
The last step was done so as to keep bunk board support. To do this, the forward nuts were removed from the bunk boards and bottle jacks used between the trailer and the bunk boards jacking until temporary 1.5" blocks could be fitted between the bunk board and its support. This gained the 2-3 inches needed to get the center board out.

Forward bunk board support is probably not critical and I believe if the front of the trailer could be jacked high enough by having the tires setting on a hump in the terrain, that the step in releasing the forward bolts of the bunk boards might be eliminated. I think others have done so without releasing them.

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 04/22/2007 07:02:52

528
Navigator

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USA
181 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2007 : 21:12:05

Having removed the centerboard twice with ease, I suggest putting a floor jack on the front of the trailer under the bow. Set enough wood blocking (2x8's work well) to minimize slack and jack as high as you need to. The jack will be off center, but adequately supported by the trailer frame. Takes 3 minutes! Remember the board is quite heavy for one person. After securing the forward centerboard mount bolts if you remove them, fill the holes with sealant that can be removed as a plug after curing, this ensures no rusted bolts to fight with down the road.

Edited by - on

bear
Admiral

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USA
909 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 06:54:19

Something which helped greatly when I shimmed my centerboard was to make a couple of alignment bolts to aid in re-installation of the four attach bolts. Just find a couple of bolts same size and thread and cut the heads off and use them for alignment.

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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 08:54:03

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I suggest putting a floor jack on the front of the trailer under the bow. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Dave, can you expand on your explaination..
Where exactly did you put the jack. (realtive to the keel and the bow.)

Thanks.
Paul

Edited by - on

bear
Admiral

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USA
909 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 09:07:16

I found that if you use a 1X6 on the trailer frame just in front of the bow roller with what ever 2x4s etc between jack pad and bow it works. Remember to loosen or remove winch cable and any thing else holding boat to trailer. [Just my two cents worth again]

Edited by - on

Andiamo
Deckhand

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USA
17 Posts

Response Posted - 04/22/2007 : 19:54:16

I used the method that 528 suggested and it worked well. I used 2 bottle jacks; one forward of the roller and one aft of the roller. I thought having two jacking points would be safer and gave me more flexibility.

I jacked the bow about 6 inches off of the roller and that was enough to get the centerboard out. I continuously blocked the boat in case one of the jacks failed. I also put blocking (1 inch and 2 inch) between the bunks and the hull.

Thanks for everybody's help. I also used Bears suggestion to cut off some bolts and use them guides. That also worked well but instead of cutting off two bolts, I went to the hardware store and bought 2" threaded rod.

Thanks again. I am trying to post pictures of the operation.

Edited by - on

lewalskim
1st Mate

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USA
70 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2007 : 13:40:36

While having a dive service clean the bottom and help replace the centerboard pennant with the new vectran line, the diver surfaced and handed me the brass turning ball that had over 1/4 of the ball missing; it looks like it just broke off He also had the remains of the pin used with the ball. When I get a new turning ball, can anyone tell me how the thing gets put back in?

He also told me that I only had two of the four bolts holding the centerboard mount in place. What size are these bolts and is it as simple as getting two more and putting them in until tight?

No trailer available, only in water work can be done but the diver said that he should be able to perform the work.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2007 : 14:34:07

I'm thinkin ya need to get the boat out of the water if ya got parts falling off. Particularly in places that could let a lot of water in. Ya know, like the bottom of the boat!!

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