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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Bottom paint

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esailor
Navigator

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USA
118 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/11/2007 : 19:10:25

I have been wonder ing about my bottom paint. It is a dark gray almost black and if you rub it with your finger it sort of comes off on your finger. It cleans easily of the growth from sitting in the water half a season.

Any idea what kind of paint this is and how do I go about prepping and adding more. I seems to still be in good condition.

I was told it was painted at the end of the 05 season and was only in the water the last half of the 06 season when I bought her. I am going to try to call the PO to see if he has any info on it.

Thanks

Pete Hagar
Dayton,Ohio
Indian Lake
2770 82/SR/SK/9.9 evinrude

Edited by - on

JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2007 : 19:17:31

that is ablative paint it is made to wear off when sailing, thus leaving the marine growth behind.

Edited by - on

esailor
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USA
118 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2007 : 19:20:33

Thanks Jim, That is what I thought. What is the prep for new? Clean, light sanding and recoat with a similar ablative?

Thanks,

Edited by - on

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2007 : 19:33:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by esailor
 Thanks Jim, That is what I thought. What is the prep for new? Clean, light sanding and recoat with a similar ablative?

Thanks,
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I usually power wash the bottom and add the same ablative paint. It would be a good idea to ask the PO what he used in the past as a lot of paints are incompatible with each other. If you cannot find out the brand and type, you will have to sand it down completely and start with a fresh bottom. Not something I want to do if I don't have to!

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2007 : 19:52:06

"Clean, light sanding and recoat with a similar ablative?"

You've got it! Micron CSC is pretty good stuff.

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esailor
Navigator

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USA
118 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2007 : 19:57:20

Thanks guys, One more question on the subject, roll it on or brush it?

Thanks again,

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2007 : 23:39:37

That could also be VC17. It goes on copper-color but then turns a dark brown gray and does rub off on your finger. Can you check with the PO? Whatever it is you should stick with it. VC 17 has very specific application directions, using a foam roller, rolling in one direction only. It also evaporates very quickly so you only pour enough in the pan for one or two roller loads. Goes on thin. I just applied a coat and it was easy.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 00:42:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ClamBeach
 ...Micron CSC is pretty good stuff.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Micron Extra has a good anti-slime additive.

I'm inclined to disagree with sanding an ablative--all that does is take more off than you need and creates a lot of toxic dust. Ablatives are by definition not hard-surfaced or shiny. Power washing should be all they need. (VC-17 I don't know about... Epoxy paints--sand.)

You can use a contrasting color to what's on there so the old paint will act as a "signal" that what you put on is wearing away. That can help you decide how much to add in future years, or whether you can skip a year altogether.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 04/12/2007 00:44:24

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 09:03:23

"I'm inclined to disagree with sanding an ablative--all that does is take more off than you need and creates a lot of toxic dust."

I've found it helps smooth things out if you give it a minimal sanding every 4 or 5 applications). Different rates of wear on areas of the hull start to make things 'lumpy'. Wet sanding eliminates the dust issue, but makes a mess of it's own. (No way around making a mess one way or the other).

As far as color, I have a trailer, with black rollers. Black bottom paint was a natural choice, don't have to worry about those pesky roller marks on the hull.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5895 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 09:28:19

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by esailor
 Thanks guys, One more question on the subject, roll it on or brush it?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Roll it, but be sure you use either a roller with a phenolic core or a plastic core. The rollers with cardboard cores, like what you would use for house paint, are unusable, because the solvents used in antifouling paints usually dissolve the glues that hold the cardboard core together.

Also, it might be more a matter of preference, but I use 3" or 4" rollers, rather than the big 9" rollers. I think they're a little easier to control, and they apply a smoother, more uniform coat over the curved surface of the boat's bottom. The size of the roller doesn't make that much difference in the amount of time it takes to paint the bottom.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 09:50:31

Even the 7" roller is a little nicer--especially with a 3' broom handle... And Clam, when you broach, nobody's going to be paying attention to the marks on the bottom of your hull.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 04/12/2007 09:52:00

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 10:18:09

As Randy pointed out, you could have VC17 on the hull. If so, not only would it be a shame to paint over it with a regular ablative paint, it wouldn't work since you can't use anything over VC17.

I would try to contact whoever painted it last to verify the current bottom paint. It will save you a lot of potential grief!

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 10:20:34

Pete the short side of this thread's answer is don't repaint until the signal coat appears...assuming that you have ablative paint on your boat...my boat's bottom is coming up to its fifth season using West's CCP ablative, and still no sign of its signal coat. The signal coat on my boat is brown and the finish coat is black. When it is ready to repaint an ablative you just power wash the slime away, no brushing or sanding, and repaint with the same paint that the PO used if it is possible to determine what paint was used. I'd venture to say that any ablative will cover an ablative paint, or so my experience indicates.
Stay the course. ( With ablative paints that is )

Val on the hard DAGNABIT, # 3936, Patchogue, N.Y.

Edited by - on

Champipple
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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 10:29:37

I started typing an entire thesis on this and stopped myself. Here are the quick points.

1 – color will not identify anything. Even Fresh rolled VC-17 looks like a pettit coppery orange bottom paint. And with all the new fangled stuff on the market, you can get just about anything as far as color goes.

2 – A picture might help narrow it down. Standard grade VC has a unique look to it and I think a number of us will be able to identify that. If your paint comes off powdery, I would say it is not VC – but again PICS.

3 – you need to paint over with a like (not necessarily identical mfg) paint. Otherwise you stand a very good chance of adhesion problems.

I could surmise what you have on the bottom based on you being in Dayton.(are you coming to nationals?????) but the best thing would be for you to take a picture and post it here. Secondarily ask somebody at your local west marine or boat store or a guy sailing on your lake.

4 - Last option – Call the folks at interlux and get an education from them. They will answer your questions in a heartbeat. Tell them what it looks and feels like and then tell them you don’t have the time to do the bottom this year. They will tell you what it is and what to put on.

As far as sanding – monkey suit, goggles, respirator – always. That is a respirator not a paper mask. While I’m environmentally conscious, whats the difference if the paint bleeds off into the water or I sand it off and hose the area down the sewer????

5 –– Paint with a rollerunless you are racing the big circuit (trust me you aren’t if you have a c25) . – the foam kind with the plastic, not cardboard tube. A brush would take longer than you need and if it’s hot you’ll be messing with ugly drying times.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 10:48:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by esailor
 I have been wondering about my bottom paint. It is a dark gray almost black and if you rub it with your finger it sort of comes off on your finger.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">It "sort of" comes off on your finger, uh? On my last boat, I used a true ablative paint and it didn't "sort of" come off when rubbed, it really came off. It came off when touched, lightly brushed, and I swear, even if I walked within two feet of it.

On the otherhand, if I were to touch my hull with last seasons VC17, I would get little to nothing on my finger, but if I were to rub it over the paint, I would end up with a dirty looking finger.

Edited by - dlucier on 04/12/2007 12:55:31

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3438 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 12:27:04

Pete,

I agree with Val as far as pressure washing, etc.

You did not mention anything about barnacles and so...maybe you sail in freshwater. If the slime, etc comes off easily as you indicated, then recommend have the boat lifted and pressure washed mid-season and then check it again at end of the season. In my neck of the woods, it is common to get the bottom pressure washed once or twice a year for those boats in the water all year round like mine.

I have ablative paint on mine and boat is in fresh water year-round. In Fall 05, I had it lifted out, pressure washed and dropped back in for $75. The paint was 4 years old at the time. Fall '06 I had it pressure washed again and while it had a lot of slime on it, the slime came off pretty easily. I had it repainted that fall with another ablative type paint.

So...as long as the slime came off fairly easily and you had nothing else to deal with like barnacles, recommend see how it goes for half the season and then check it out. if things really looking bad underneath and somewhat hard to pressure wash off, then time to repaint.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2007 : 12:35:43

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Duane Wolff
 ...While I’m environmentally conscious, whats the difference if the paint bleeds off into the water or I sand it off and hose the area down the sewer????<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The difference between the air in New Jersey and the air in Wyoming. Concentration.

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