Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I realize I could archive this, but I'm always thrilled with such up-to-date responses, especially from some guy named Don L. Always a big thinks for the updates.
I'm in the process of rewiring my mast.
1) How do I access the wires in the ~mid-mast section, where there is a round, teak steaming/running light (bulb style)?
2) After I have changed the wire, how does this particular light mount back on to the mast?
3) Is it worth converting to the newer Catalina Direct halogen steaming light/deck light?
3a) If so, what's involved with mounting the newer unit?
this is $60 at catalinadirect.com I don't see how anyone could improve on it. I would deffinately upgrade to a modern fixture, the best price I found was for the Aqua Signal Series 25 at defender.com $47.99
And you are correct Don always gets it right. North Star proves it.
"How do I access the wires in the ~mid-mast section, where there is a round, teak steaming/running light (bulb style)?"
Remove the light and you'll see the wires right there. Don't 'lose' them as you'll probably want to use them to pull the new wires into the mast. If you do need to start a new set of wires in from scratch you can use a 'fish tape' or remove the masthead fitting and drop a nut tied on a string down the mast.
"After I have changed the wire, how does this particular light mount back on to the mast?"
A couple stainles sheet metal screws hold it in place. Use Lanocote, Never-sieze, Loctite (etc) on the threads when you put it back to reduce chances of corrosion.
"Is it worth converting to the newer Catalina Direct halogen steaming light/deck light?"
If you sail or motor at night, yes.
"If so, what's involved with mounting the newer unit?"
Simple. Drilling a couple holes in the mast for the new mounting screw locations and hooking up the wires. Be sure to spring for 'marine tinned wire' (or get the pre-spliced kit). Un-tinned wire will corrode in a marine environment.
If you need to pull wires (or lines) through your mast while it's on sawhorses, the forestay makes a dandy electrician's fish tape.
Don't forget to do something to prevent the mast wiring from clanging. If you have (or plan to have) internal halyards, I think it's a good idea to prevent the halyards from chafing on the wiring. I installed thinwall PVC pipe for the wiring.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />And you are correct Don always gets it right. North Star proves it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I just get lucky every once in a while! The key for me is I leave the difficult topics to the resident experts.
Keith,
If you are replacing the mast wiring, disconnect the old wiring from the steaming and anchor lights then tie a strong string (or better yet, very small line) to the wires at each light. Each of the two strings will need to be longer than the mast. Next, pull the old wiring out from the bottom of the mast which will pull the string along with it. When installing the new wiring, simply attach the strings to the corresponding wires going to the fixtures, then pull the strings at the fixtures to lead the wires back up the mast.
As I recall when I completed this project I had to take the mast head assembly off at the top of the mast to get the wires through.
I did change out the small OEM steaming light to the combo light. It's nice to have the deck light on when organizing after dark. I also added a windex light while completing the job.
This leads to another thing no one has mentioned. How are you going to control these lights when the OEM thru-deck connector only has 3 wires (as I recall?). One ground and two hot wires (steaming & anchor). In my case I needed 4 hots plus the ground. I believe it was Frank who steered me to the only plug suited to my needs. Page 539 in the WM catalog. I moved it forward a few inches and filled the original spot. It interfered with my blocks and lines at the base of the mast running to the cockpit. If you do not go with the windex light you will still need to find a connector with an additional hot for the deck lamp.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.