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single handing

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crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/19/2006 : 18:13:44

OK, folks, I'm going to drop myself into the fat. Need a little help here. I have single handed before, but not in the last 20 years. So Friday I went out with a friend, a good sailor, and told him "just sit there, keep me out of trouble, and let me see if I can remember." Winds, SW, 6-8 knots. Lake empty (Friday afternoon) A beautiful fall day until I happened to it. Between bouts of laughter we decided that if I ever knew anything about sailing, I had forgotten it all. Obviously, I would not have tried it except for the light air and empty lake, but friends, let me tell you it was a mess. All was well, not including the accidental jibe, but it served as lesson to me.

I therefore solicit information regarding single handing these vessels. Mine, 1979 FK SR, is not "rigged for single handing" and I do not have roller furling because right now I can't afford it, but neither have any of my other boats been "rigged for it". So I have to go forward to raise and lower sails. Again, nothing new there. I have either forgotten or gotten real stupid in my old age.

So would some of you very experienced single handers out there talk me through your whole process, blow by blow, as it were. I would be eternally grateful, and I'd bet that there are others out there who would appreciate it. Oh yeah, I forgot to add that during all those years when I thought that I'd never sail again, I gave away almost my entire sailing reference library obtained from the late lamented Dolphin Book Club, which really cuts the homework thing short.

Thanks in advance, pull no punches, jump all over me.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/19/2006 : 18:29:30

You are asking for a book. Let me suggest something unusual. Buy an oversized autopilot. If you truly do not have anything lead back and must go to the mast as well as the forestay when handling sails then you are money ahead to buy a GOOD autopilot and simply keep your boat rigged as it is. Don't go out when you shouldn't and tie on when you get caught out by weather.

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 11/19/2006 : 22:00:17

I single hand 95% of the time... here's what I have.

1) Main Halyard and Jib Halyard are led aft to cockpit. (port side)
65' long halyards installed (all line)
Turning blocks installed at the base of the mast
Double deck organizer on the cabintop to turn the lines aft
Double line clutch mounted forward of cabintop winch

2) Dousing line on jib.
1/4' line lead from the jib head down to the tack then to the cockpit
'spinlock' stanchion-mounted bullet blocks lead it aft
small swivel block at the jib tack leads it down
swivel snap secures it to the jib head
small cleat secures it aft (keeps it from flopping around under sail)

3) Boom vang lead aft (starboard)
Deck organizer turns it aft
Line clutch or cleat to secure it

4) Dockline on bow led aft
25' bow dockline is lead to aft cleat and secured when leaving the dock
so both docklines are 'at hand' in the cockpit when returning

5) Topping lift (Essential!) Holds the boom up when you douse the main.

6) Stern ladder with velcro securing it up and trip line led down to water level
7) Harness anchor points in cockpit and at mast base.
8) Bungee cord secured between stern cleats is poor man's autopilot.

Future: Lazy jacks would make dousing the main a trivial task.

Edited by - ClamBeach on 11/19/2006 22:02:21

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 07:28:28

I agree with Frank. The first critical factor in single handing is controlling the tiller - being able to leave it for short periods of time. Securing it off with a short length of line or a bungee cord is a simple means of doing this. A good, over-sized autopilot is best. Before you make any other investments for single handing, this would be the one.

Once you are comfortable with handling your boat with the autopilot, you can start adding "stuff", to make life a little easier. Clambeach provides a few. There are others throughout the archives. I can outline what I've done with my boat via email if you would like.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5896 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 08:19:00

It's much easier to singlehand a sailboat if you lead the control lines to the cockpit, but, until you do so, you can get by with the following procedure.

First, you need some kind of self-steering device. A bungee cord will hold the tiller in light air, but, when the wind is blowing, it'll stretch when the wind puffs, and the boat's course will wander too much. A Tiller Tamer, or similar device will hold your course without wandering so much, and it'll be much easier to adjust.

Hank on the jib and attach the jibsheets and the halyard before you leave the dock. Use a bungee cord to hold the jib down until you're ready to raise it. Take the boat out to a clear area, and head directly to windward. Set the engine throttle as slow as you can while still having steerageway, and let the boat slow down to minimum speed before you start raising sails.

With the boat going to windward at minimum speed, release the mainsheet and the pigtail that attaches the boom to the backstay. (The boom should still be supported by a topping lift.) Go forward to the mast and raise the mainsail. Then go back to the cockpit and steer the boat onto a course between a close reach and a beam reach, and adjust the mainsheet for that course. At that point, you will be sailing slowly on the mainsail alone. The self-steering device will hold the boat on that course very reliably, with very little wandering. That's important, because once the boat is sailing slowly on a reliable course, you'll have plenty of time to raise the jib without being hurried. Now is a good time to shut off the motor and tilt it out of the water.

Next, go forward to the bow (walk on the leeward side of the boat), and remove the bungee cord that is holding the jib down. Take hold of the clew of the jib and pull it aft, along the leeward side of the boat. Then go to the mast and raise the jib. Finally, go back to the cockpit and adjust the jibsheet.

When you take the sails down, put the boat on the same course, let the jib luff, so that the boat is sailing slowly on the mainsail alone, and set the Tiller Tamer. Take the jib down first and bungee it on deck. Then take down the mainsail. I usually just let the boat drift under bare pole while I'm furling the mainsail on the boom. Then go back to the cockpit, lower the motor into the water, and start it.

Edited by - Steve Milby on 11/20/2006 08:40:40

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 10:40:07

There are a lot of photos of the two boats I have rigged to single hand on my site. My 82 had LOTS of stuff lead back, my 89 has what I consider to be the minimum lead back. I think you will see great ideas on lots of people's boats.

Edited by - on

panhead1948
Captain

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345 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 13:12:01

I singlehand most of the time and agee with everything that been said. When I bought most of the things suggested ahd been done but I added a roller furler. Now when I go out if the wind comes up I just roll up the headsail and sail on. I still have some changes to make this winter but that part of the fun of sailing making your boat your boat.

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 14:15:28

You hit on questions that I have never really gotten an answer I can understand.

When singlehanding, it seems to be important to have a harness and attach yourself to the boat. My questions are: Where do you install anchor points, how do you install them (i.e. how much reinforcement is needed, where is the boat strong enough, etc.), and how do you use them?

If you have an anchor point in the cockpit and one at the mast, do you unhook from the cockpit and go "bare" forward, then hook on at the mast?

I know there are a number of opinions about all this. My hope is try and devise a system that will keep me inside the boat if I fall, as the water around here is pretty cold, and I am not nearly as young, thin or in shape as I once was... I do have a trip line rigged on the swim ladder on my boat that would allow me to get back in, but I am not sure I could pull myself against the flow if the boat kept sailing...

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer on this subject.

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 14:54:55

Tiller tamer. Tiller tamer. Forgot the tiller tamer. I said it had been a long time. Thanks, Steve, that is pretty much as I remember. What happens is you get old and stupid and forgetful. My last boat had all the good stuff, autopilot, roller furling, wheel steering with friction lock, and so forth and was comparatively simple to drive by yourself. I think it made me forgetful of what used to be. ASAP will try again with your guidance. Thanks again.

I can help a little with attachment points. On the last boat, which was a pretty well rigged, Cape Dory 30, cutter rig, I rigged padeyes with backing plates on all four sides of the cockpit. Offshore or in any kind of blow at all, I ran jacklines down port and starboard, using my mooring cleats. I now think that if you are going to rig jacklines it is worth it to have dedicated attachment points if possible, and I like the idea of having a single line midships, rather than one down each side. The rule was that the man on watch would be secured to the boat at all times during the night watch or if he was alone on deck or it was at all rough. In practice, the watchstander almost always shackled on just on general principles. It's no big deal and gives you a nice feeling of security even if you are just sitting there watching the autopilot work.

Another rule was that if shackling conditions were in force, you had to shackle on before leaving the cabin to come on deck. That's why the padeye on the front of the cockpit right under the companionway. I think it goes without saying that in shackling conditions if you go forward you have to shackle to the jackline. The truth of the matter is that once you get used to it, hooking up is no big deal and you feel a lot better when you do.

Frank, I am working on getting the stuff led aft. Think I have a line on one winch already. Would love to have that done by springtime.

Thanks to everyone who responded. Is this a great forum or what?

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5896 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 15:05:24

Kevin, there are different ways you can do it. The most common way is to attach a line to the starboard bow cleat, and attach the other end to the starboard stern cleat, and then do the same on the port side. That way, you can clip your safety harness tether to either one, and go forward on either side of the boat, and they'll keep you attached to the boat.

The problem is that, if you fall off, you could hang there on the tether and be dragged alongside the boat, unable to pull yourself back onboard. An alternative is to attach one line to either of the bow cleats, and then lead that one line aft along the centerline of the boat and attach the other end to a strong cleat or pad eye mounted near the centerline, and with reach of the cockpit. That way, you can attach your tether to the line (called a jackline), and be attached to the boat while you go forward to handle the sails. If you start to fall, your tether should be short enough to prevent you from actually going over the side.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">If you have an anchor point in the cockpit and one at the mast, do you unhook from the cockpit and go "bare" forward, then hook on at the mast?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Ideally, you should locate the aftmost attachment point in a place so that you can be hooked on to it and be able to move all around the cockpit, and so that you can remain hooked onto it and go all the way to the bow without unhooking it. If the conditions get really rough, you should be hooked up, regardless of whether you're in the cockpit or going forward to handle the sails, and you shouldn't have to unhook it at any time.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 15:06:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Milby
 ...I usually just let the boat drift under bare pole while I'm furling the mainsail on the boom. Then go back to the cockpit, lower the motor into the water, and start it.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I find that the main comes down much more quickly and easily when it's luffing than when it's filled. My preference is to start the engine before dropping the main, and then use it similarly to Steve's approach for raising the main--steer into the wind to luff the main, leave the mainsheet loose so the sail won't fill in case the boat drifts off course, set whatever tiller control you have, go forward and drop the sail; then return to the cocpit (don't spend any more time up top than you have to), snug the mainsheet, get a couple of sail ties on, and head for home. You can flake or roll up the sail better back at the dock.

Besides keeping the mains'l luffing, starting the engine first also insures that you have a running engine when the sails are down. That's not the best time to discover it doesn't want to start.

Oh--and at least whenever you go forward from the cockpit, have your PFD on! (Singlehanding, it's best all the time.) As discussed above, a tether is important too, but I never had one--I didn't singlehand except in fairly benign conditions and I had roller furling and lines led aft.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 11/20/2006 15:09:22

DaveC25
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 16:17:17

I only single hand, and for me the easiest thing to do is to motor out from the dock, drop the anchor, then put up both sails while the boat is at anchor, leaving the sheets loose. I pull the motor up and secure it. Then I pull her up to the anchor, but don't break it loose yet. I wait until she swings the way I want to go and then pull the anchor up, go back to the cockpit as she's falling off, pull in the mainsheet, and away we go. I pull in the jib sheet after she picks up a little speed from the main.

To take them down, I just turn the boat into the wind, let the sheets go, and keep her there until she stops, then go up front and drop the anchor. Now I can drop the sails at my leisure. Then put the motor down, start it, pull up the anchor, and motor to the dock.

If you want to do it while the boat is moving, then you need something to hold the tiller. The thing is that even if you get it pointed straight, as you walk from one side of the boat to the other she will turn. So unless you have an autopilot or alot of room, it's better (for me, anyways) to put the sails up when stopped. That way I don't have to worry about jibes, or running into something. (or falling overboard...

)

-DaveC25

Edited by - DaveC25 on 11/20/2006 16:20:31

JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 17:52:46

I've singlehanded my C25 thousands of miles up to 50 miles offshore and in terrifying rough conditions. The only true MUST HAVE is an autopilot - which won't work for squat in really rough offshore conditions, but will at least center and lock the tiller. For 99% of single handed sailing the AP is your best friend and steers for hours and hours.

I don't usually wear my life jacket/harness but I do whenever reefed - or double reefed. I keep my tether and life jacket on a hook just inside the companionway. I've already learned that things can change FAST and you can't be digging around looking for the tether in rough conditions. You'll end up having to go forward without it.

Similar to jacklines, mine are always rigged ready to use. I've attached nylon webbing to my forward cleats and they lead backwards to a stanchion base. I only have them at the front 1/3 of the boat. I can clip on to the base of my mast if I have to while working at the mast/boom but I've never felt the need to do so. Clipping in WHILE going around the stays is very difficult on our little boats so I did away with it. If I did fall and the stanchion broke I'd still be tied to the lifelines. I only need a short tether on the foredeck.

I think the probablity of falling out of the cockpit is minimal, I have no way to tether in back there. The best idea I saw was a big eyebolt under the companionway.

Lines led aft are very nice, I have 16 lines led aft in the cockpit.

I have hank on jibs and I carry a 60, 110, 135, and 155 plus spin. I have to go forward to raise or douse jib. Roller furling would make singlehanding very fast and easy but take away some performance in big winds or light air.

I always crawl or sit on the foredeck.

I usually raise main in the slip (upwind slip). If underway I don't care much, just point upwind under motor and AP and pull it up.

Getting the main down and stowed in big winds is much harder than getting it up!

Start with easy conditions and work your way up. Don't make your first single handed day be with winds over 15. Always fly a jib one size lower then you could carry with crew. Always reef early. Go even smaller and more conservative at night offshore! Nightime single handed spinnaker scares me (I've done it). Single handed I drop jib before going up spin.

Setting whisker pole can be a handful single handed - remember crawl on foredeck!

I like to put my boat dead down wind then sheet in main all the way to reef. AP can steer the boat downwind under jib alone in almost any wind/seas.

One thing I like most about single handing - EVERYONE on board is ALWAYS having FUN.

PS - the boat heaves to very nicely about 70 degrees off the wind and the AP will hold it there for you if you need to fix something.

Also I installed an automatic, electric bilge pump. You can't pump the manual AND fix a leak single handed.

Edited by - JimB517 on 11/20/2006 17:57:54

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 18:42:23

Jim,

I hadn't thought about fixing the leak and pumping out. Incentive to install an automatic bilge pump.

Thanks Jim.

Edited by - on

bbriner
Captain

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349 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 18:50:23

Charles - I have single-handed a LOT and all my lines are still at the mast so ... memorize everything that Steve Milby said!! (you can use a highwayman's knot and forego the bungee cord. It makes it easier to raise the jib - you don;t have to go forward to the bow).

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 20:02:57

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DaveC25
 I only single hand, and for me the easiest thing to do is to motor out from the dock, drop the anchor, then put up both sails while the boat is at anchor, leaving the sheets loose. I pull the motor up and secure it. Then I pull her up to the anchor, but don't break it loose yet. I wait until she swings the way I want to go and then pull the anchor up, go back to the cockpit as she's falling off, pull in the mainsheet, and away we go...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Dave,

Throwing out the anchor to raise sails doesn't sound all that easy, especially when conditions aren't so tranquil. Geez, I hate hauling in my anchor when I'm actually at anchor and if I deployed my anchor everytime I raised sails, I 'd soon become a powerboater.

Have you tried raising sails without using the anchor?

Edited by - on

Brooke Willson
Admiral

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USA
983 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2006 : 21:24:37

I usually singlehand, and have done so in small craft advisory weather without incident. The C25 is a great boat for singlehanding. I would amen and exhort on these issues:

1. The single best addition to my boat was a tillerpilot. I feel it's a virtual necessity for singlehanding. It allows you to move around above or below deck safely. If you spend big bucks on one recommendation above, make it a tillerpilot (Simrad and Raytheon are equally effective -- get the best deal).

2. If you're going to use hank-on foresails, rig a jib downhaul led to the cockpit. It's cheap and easy to do. That will help keep you off the foredeck at sea. Even better is a rollerfurler. I can't believe how much safer, easier, and more fun sailing is in the two years I've had mine.

3. I motor into the wind to both raise and lower sails. I find the anchor story . . . unusual. Why that's easier than raising sails while motoring into the wind utterly escapes me. It certainly seems more dangerous to race back to the cockpit as the boat is falling off the wind.

4. Leading lines back to the cockpit helps, but a tillerpilot lessens the need to run the halyards, as does a roller furler. With lines led aft, you seldom need to leave the cockpit under sail.

Brooke

Edited by - Brooke Willson on 11/20/2006 21:27:33

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5896 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 10:32:10

I hope I'm not beating a dead horse, but this subject is important, and I'd hate to hear that a C25 was found drifting offshore, intact but unmanned.

Whether you use a jackline and safety harness depends on a lot of factors. I never used them as long as I was sailing on Brookville Lake (1 mile long by 5 miles wide), because it never really got very rough, there were almost always lots of other boats around that could pull me out, and, at the worst, I could swim to shore (while floating and resting periodically) from anywhere on the lake. When I started sailing on the Chesapeake, I soon realized that it's a big bay, and it does get rough, and, depending on your location, there might not be another boat in sight in any direction (not to mention the fact that I'm getting older). If you singlehand in any similar conditions, it's crazy not to hook on. In calm weather, I still don't use a safety harness and jacklines on the Bay, but I never leave the cockpit without at least wearing a life jacket, no matter how calm the water. With a lifejacket to support me, I could still swim 2-3 miles, unless it was cold. Moreover, I carry a portable VHF that is at least nominally waterproof, and could call for help if I went over the side. If I was offshore, in blue water, I'd be hooked on, no matter how calm the conditions.

On a C25, I think you could install a horn cleat on the coach roof, to one side of the hatch. (If you have run your control lines to the cockpit, you probably already have a suitable cleat.) If the cleat is mounted on the port side of the coach roof, then you could run the jackline from the bow cleat around the starboard side of the mast, and then back to the horn cleat. That would keep the jackline as close as possible to the centerline of the boat. From that location, you could remain hooked up while in the cockpit, as well as while going all the way to the bow, if necessary, without unhooking at any time.

In rough conditions, it's equally important to hook up while in the cockpit. The danger there isn't that you'll fall out of the cockpit, but that you might wander into an area where unusual conditions are creating breakers, and that the breakers might roll the boat over and dump you out.

Years ago, I was northbound on the IC Waterway, crossing the Boca Grand Pass, at Charlotte Harbor. A 27 foot sailboat entering the pass from the Gulf of Mexico during a storm got into some breakers and was rolled over. The husband was able to grab some lines and pull himself back on the boat after it righted itself. The wife could not, and she was swept out into the Gulf, where she was found dead, still wearing her life jacket, a day or so later.

I was caught in breakers once, off the Gulf coast, so I know it isn't just something that happens to other people, and it was pure dumb luck that the boat didn't roll over.

When you're isolated, with no help nearby, and in conditions so bad that your control of the boat is marginal, and when one small misstep can be fatal, you have to take every conceivable precaution to protect yourself.

Edited by - on

Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 11:48:50

Try this link: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13748

Discusses jib downhauls, one of the most important bits of gear you'll need if you don't have a furler.

Edited by - on

DaveC25
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 16:14:40

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DaveC25
 I only single hand, and for me the easiest thing to do is to motor out from the dock, drop the anchor, then put up both sails while the boat is at anchor, leaving the sheets loose. I pull the motor up and secure it. Then I pull her up to the anchor, but don't break it loose yet. I wait until she swings the way I want to go and then pull the anchor up, go back to the cockpit as she's falling off, pull in the mainsheet, and away we go...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Dave,

Throwing out the anchor to raise sails doesn't sound all that easy, especially when conditions aren't so tranquil. Geez, I hate hauling in my anchor when I'm actually at anchor and if I deployed my anchor everytime I raised sails, I 'd soon become a powerboater.

Have you tried raising sails without using the anchor?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yes, but like I said above only when I have alot of room. I do not have an autopilot so in order to do that I have to lash the tiller. I find myself hurrying when it's lashed because she always finds a way to turn. In light winds it's not a big deal, but if the winds are 15 to 20 or greater she's going to get blown around while you're up there, and if you're trying to reef or something.... I don't mind anchoring and then doing what I have to do, then pulling it up....although i will contend that pulling the boat up to the anchor against a 20 knot wind gusting to 30 does get tiring, as I had to do put up my spare mainsail because a gust ripped my regular main.

In light air there is more time because the boat isn't getting pushed around by the wind, but I still find it more relaxing to just drop the hook and then pull it up again. I have a lightweight Fortress so it's not so bad. It only takes a short time to deploy or retreive the anchor since normally the water is less than 12 feet where I sail, and for just raising the sails I don't worry about 7:1 scope or setting it real good since it's only for a short time and I'm on deck the whole time....just let the out the anchor while the boat is drifting downwind, let it grab, give it a jerk to set it, and tie it off.

Of course my boat is bare-bones! I have absolutely no "helper" gear. (Yet, I'm getting there slowly but surely) If I had a topping lift, an autopilot, and aft led lines and such, I certainly wouldn't bother with anchoring. I'm working on making a wind vane right now, and once that's done I should be able to bend sails easily while underway....

BTW: This is just to get going. If I'm already underway and have to change the jib or something, then I can set the main andlash the tiller, and she'll hold a reasonable course towards the wind while I do what I need to do up there.

-Dave C25

PS: Also, Brooke, I never said I had to "race back" to the cockpit...she doesn't fall off that quickly, and if she does she ends up finding her way to a broad reach under main alone, with the jib luffing. I don't understand how you guys can point your boat into the wind under outboard power and have her stay there, without an autopilot, while you go up to the mast to raise your sails. The technique I use isn't unusual....it's basically the same way you would sail off or return to a mooring.

Edited by - DaveC25 on 11/21/2006 16:39:56

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 17:36:47

Dave,

Put an autopilot on your Christmas wish list. For singlehanded sailing, you just can't beat it.

You said you don't have a topping lift...Do you still use the pigtail?

When I got my C25, the first thing to go was the %#!$ pigtail. On my first sailboat, that thing caused me more grief than anything else.

Edited by - dlucier on 11/21/2006 18:57:03

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3442 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 17:55:51

How exactly does an autopilot work ? (I need to look in the catalogs a bit to see how much room/space it takes up.) What if anything is the maintenance for it during and after a season ? How reliable are they...do they occasionally break down ?

I have a furling rig. I have always done plenty of single handed sailing and never felt a need for anything other than using a tiller tamer in the past or ...with a furling rig, before putting up any sails, I wind up using the furling line cleated on the port side to put a few wraps around the tiller handle and then cleat it on the starboard side. I then hoist my main, undo the furling rig line from the cleat and then set my jib. Returning, I reverse the procedure. No big deal. Only issue I have is the freakin switch panel under the steps ! I find a way to tie up the tiller and then disappear for awhile to flip on the running lights at night. One project for the future is installing a more conveninet switch panel to square that issue away.

Anyway...curious about info/experiences about the autopilot. Is it like A/C ? Once you get used to it...there is no going back ?

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 18:46:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OLarryR
 How exactly does an autopilot work ?

What if anything is the maintenance for it during and after a season? How reliable are they...do they occasionally break down?

Is it like A/C? Once you get used to it...there is no going back ?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Although my autopilot has some bells and whistles, I mainly use it to just hold a course. It couldn't be easier to operate, just set it on the tiller pin and push the auto button. If the wind changes a few degrees while under autopilot, simply push either the +/-1 or +/-10 degrees buttons.

There really isn't anything to do maintenance wise with an autopilot, but in the five years I've owned mine, it has needed service twice. The first time was under warranty. I still have to send it in after it crapped out on me towards the end of this past season.

And yes, once you have one, you'll always wonder how you got along without it.

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Jmurfy
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USA
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Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 20:03:17

I've just ended my 2nd year sailing and my 2nd year owning a boat. (Catalina 25 fin keel, standard rig). I sail on Lake Michigan and 99% of the time single handed. Preperation before you leave the dock will save your life.
When I'm out of the harbor I've learned that the auto-pilot is my number one piece of equipment followed by my roller furling. I've learned to make sure I have everything I may need in an emergency within reach like my hatch boards, bilge pump handle and life jacket, water, sun screen, radio, etc... I try never to leave the cockpit unless its something that really must have my immediate attention like a sheet thats caught on something like the hatch board that I forgot to close before leaving the harbor.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 20:53:43

This is the Autohelm 1000, one of the more popular models for small cruisers with tillers... It attaches between the coaming and the tiller, and the rod acts as a piston to push or pull the tiller. Inside is a compass and circuitry to allow you to specify a course. There're more features, but most people I've known just use that much. If I'd kept Passage, that would've been my next addition--although I might have gone for the 2000 model... not sure. If a boat has a wheel, the system is much more complicated and expensive.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 11/21/2006 20:55:29

OLarryR
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USA
3442 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2006 : 23:14:34

Don,

Ask for a description/details and you guys come thru not only with that but with photos and video to top it off !

Okay...I'll take a look at my West marine catalog before hitting the sack tonight to see what else to put on the futur project list.

Hey ! Is that a Sport a Seat in the second video ? We were at the Annapolis Sailboat Show this Fall and the seat you have looks identical to the one we bought at the show. They advertise it in magazines, West Marine sells a look-a-like but the original was at the boat show. We found out that the owners that have it manufactured live in a town close to us in Northern Va. They indicated the seat is made in the US by handicapped workers. Anyway, my wife likes the seat. She uses it on the boat but seems to make even more use of it in our family room. She likes the high back and oftentimes sits on it when watching tv.

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