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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am considering purchasing a new C250 WK, and am wondering whether to purchase the tiller or wheel option. I have only ever sailed with tiller, which looks at first glance to be lighter, cheaper, easier to attach an autohelm and much simpler. On the other hand, the wheel steering appears to give more seating room in the cockpit, both from the helmsman's seat and also because there is no tiller to swing into the aft end of the cockpit seats. I have a large family, and seating room in the cockpit of my Sirius 21 is always at a premium. I love the pushpit seats on the C250, which adds considerably to cockpit seating, but I am wondering whether the extra cost of the wheel steering would add even more room to the vessel.
What are your recommendations to me on this option? Thanks in advance for any replies.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmcewen</i> <br />I am considering purchasing a new C250 WK, and am wondering whether to purchase the tiller or wheel option. I have only ever sailed with tiller, which looks at first glance to be lighter, cheaper, easier to attach an autohelm and much simpler. On the other hand, the wheel steering appears to give more seating room in the cockpit, both from the helmsman's seat and also because there is no tiller to swing into the aft end of the cockpit seats. I have a large family, and seating room in the cockpit of my Sirius 21 is always at a premium. I love the pushpit seats on the C250, which adds considerably to cockpit seating, but I am wondering whether the extra cost of the wheel steering would add even more room to the vessel.
What are your recommendations to me on this option? Thanks in advance for any replies. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I too wanted the wheel thinking that it would provide more room in the cockpit. The boat I bought did not have the wheel and I was determined to add it. Glad I didn't. I love the tiller. It actually provides more room than the wheel. I have a split backstay and getting on and off the boat from the rear (I'm on a mooring) would have been terrible with the wheel. I think the wheel even during sailing would require more room not less. If you plan on single handing the boat, getting to the winches from behind the wheel would be very akward. Many sit in front of the wheel while tacking.
Turk is right re Wheel restrictions. However the benefits of the wheel for us made it the right decision.
On the lottery winnings gotta get me one o them things is a folding wheel. I think moving the lines aft is a good idea if it can be done without interfering with the cockpit seating.
We're looking forward to having a fold up cockpit table on the pedestal guard too.
Excuse me for dipping but I would like to make a comment. As a non owner I think I would order a wing with a tiller but in the several years I have hung around here I have seen and learned that the wheel is an excellent choice for these boats. Arlyn made them more responsive which addresses the single biggest complaint about wheels in general. In my experience a wheel is a more social configuration. People are forced to move around the cockpit less on boats with wheels. If I were just a bit less intense as a sailor I would order a wheel on a 250.
Thanks, everyone for your replies! They are all helpful - even the reference to Captain Jack Sparrow which made my wife laugh out loud (always a good thing)
Arlyn, my wife and I have been poking through your web page for a while - very helpful and interesting. Somehow I missed your "wheel or not" page. It points out an obvious consideration that I overlooked - the gear ratio advantage of wheel steering. The original rudder on my Sirius 21 was completely unbalanced, which made the helm extremely heavy - so much so that folks with lower arm strength could not handle it at all in heavy weather. I made a new rudder with partial balance, which works much better, but the helm is still a bit too heavy for my younger kids. So perhaps the wheel would make the helm lighter and easier for the kids to manage on the C250.
If I was to order a current wheel setup from the factory, are the problems you mentioned with inadequate gearing ratio and excessive play still in the design being manufactured? If so, do you still sell your upgrade kits for $300? They look to be beautifully machined, and I would be delighted to put a kit like that on a vessel that I owned.
BTW, I hear your frustration with the shallow rudder design on the C250 WB. I know exactly what you are talking about, because I had to make the rudder on my Sirius 21 deeper to avoid rounding up into the wind when heeling in heavy weather. Question: since you have obvious abilities to make stuff, why don't you make your own rudder? It would let you make it a pop-up for beaches and groundings, as deep as you want, and you could even balance it. Stainless is pretty easy to work with using a simple stick welder, and wood with an outer layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy or polyester resin makes an easy and strong blade.
Rudder designs often seem inadequate on modern production sailing vessels, but they are also relatively easy for an owner to upgrade.
Doug, I'm very happy with the 2nd generation beaching rudder, as it is a high aspect ratio deep rudder.
Unfortunately, the Edson small boat system does not provide the leverage needed for the large rudder on the 250. The additional leverage can be had by a conversion. They remain available.
It will be helpful to note that a factory holding tank does not offer clearance for the conversion without lowering the tank slightly, which requires cutting and shortening the base. I'm not sure if this is the case on both wing and water ballast or just the water ballast. At any rate, the conversion requires about 2.5 inches clearance below the aft compartment overhead.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.