Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We just reached an agreement to purchase a 2000 C250WK! Very excited about it. That's the good news. The bad news is that the boat is 2,000 miles away and we need to go get it. Road trip!! I read the forum/archive articles about equalizer hitches. We will have the exact same Trail-rite trailer that Kevin pictured in his web pages re the hitch setup. I have the part numbers and found a good deal online. My question regards the shank. I believe the model Kevin got included the adjustable shank 90-02-4100. I'm thinking that will work for me too. I have a GMC Tahoe. So, Kevin, is that the shank you got and how far off the ground - to the bottom of the receiver tube - is your car receiver? I can compare that to my Yukon.
By the way I saw in one of the photos that you are in Oregon. We are in Eugene.
We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.
Kevin, what is the size of the hitch ball for this trailer? I ordered the 10,000lb hitch from rvwholesalers.com ($399 with free shipping! The local shops wanted $660). They didn't have the pole tongue adapter so had to get that from equilazer.com for $105. Also, can you send me the dimensions for those steel shims that the marina guy gave you to make the pole tongue adapter fit? I will get some made and painted before my trip to pick up the boat. Thanks!
I think it is a 2" ball, but that depends on your trailer. My hitch is packed (we recently moved), so I can't measure that for you. I may never find it again, if you know what I mean.
I've got a similar setup - a 2003 250wk and TrailRite with the Progress Equalizer hitch and being pulled by a Chevy Avalanche. The top of the receiver (square tube) is about 18 inches off of the ground, the trailer hitch is about 1 inch higher with it leveled. I had to use two of the lower (probably 3rd from the bottom) holes on the standard adustable 90-02-4100 shank, which is aimed down. Note that the shank can be flipped if you need it much higher. I also got lucky - the Equalizer torque bars (1,000 pound version) do not hit the front part of the trailer (called the pole), but it's close. They make a bracket to move the bars further out if needed. The trailer should use a 2 inch ball - but make sure that it's got a 1 1/4 inch shaft. It's not really safe trying to get the 1 inch version to sit inside the 1 1/4 inch hole in the hitch.
A few notes: order the 1,000 / 10,000 pound version of the equalizer. The tongue weight will be over 500 pounds. The Tahoe may be about 1 inch lower in back than the Avalanche, so you may need the middle holes on the shank, but still aimed down. You want the trailer to be level. Do not transfer too much weight to the front wheels (one of the bigger mistakes in using weight distributing hitches). You can measure the fender to ground height front and back to see what holes to use on both the shank and trailer mounting hardware. The Avalanche was UP about 1/2 inch in front and down about 2 1/2 inches in back without the bars, and is sitting about 1/2 inch down in front and 1 inch down in back with the bars on after I adjusted everything. This is pretty close to perfect for serious towing - spread the tongue weight over all 4 tires.
I saw mention of ball height from the ground of 15" and 18". Every installation varies. Place your boat on the trailer and park it in the most level spot you can find. You should use a level and place it parallel with the centerline of the trailer and raise or lower your tongue jack until it is level. Next use a tape measure and measure from inside the top of the hitch coupler to the ground. This will be the height from the ground that the top of your ball should be after installation. Secure the hitch coupler to the ball. Raise the tongue jack several inches then secure the weight distibution bar chains to the saddle bracket. Sometimes it is necessary to use blocks under the tongue jack to achieve the proper height. Lower the tongue jack and measure the ball height. Repeat as necessary until you have the correct height. A last check with the level on the trailer with confirm if it is correct as well.
Thanks for all the info guys. I appreciate it. I feel much better heading out for the long tow knowing that the equipment I am using has been used by others in the same situation and that I can learn from your experience. I love these forums.
My shim (not the temporary one I got in Seattle) is 1/4" steel bent around a pole form (done by a trailer shop) in a U shape to fit perfectly over the pole on the trailer, just aft of the trailer mast.
Turns out that the trailer I am getting does not have the tongue extender so I will not have to deal with the shim thing after all. The hitch arrived and it is incredibly heavy duty! Having all the photos from Kevin's web site plus the directions has been very helpful.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.