Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
to continue the story of the packing gland in my diesel powered C25... eventually i cut the shaft to get the gland out. I had a new (stainless) one made for $A 100 + $50 for the steel which I thought was a bargain. After a bit of fiddling the new shaft went in ok I am just not sure how much to tighten the gland but i guess i will ifind out when it goes back in the water Thats one job ticked off... the wind speed indicator is stuck.. the wind direction is broken..the hull needs cleaning..wood varnish.. loose rudder pintle.. bent stemhead...just found the mounting on the muffler is broken (now thats real dodgy: are they all just galvanised hoop iron with a bit of plastic over them?) Isnt winter just wonderful... bring on the sun.. thanks for the help Andy n Barb
I'm interested in knowing whether you had to cut the shaft because there wasn't enough room to get the packing nut completely out of the way and remove old packing/put in the new. I had that problem. Since the hose was serviceable, the motor was disconnected from the mounts and the whole thing (motor/trans/shaft) was pulled into the boat to make more room and be able to unsrew the nuts. I called Catalina and they told me that not having enough shaft to take out the packing was impossible, but that's the problem we had. Also, do you find that the belt rubs against the oil filter?? I've gone over to Bosch 3312 oil filters because they're smaller and can be taken out easier, but I haven't been able to resolve the wear/abrading on the filter by the belt. I've found that the Bosch filter passes forward between the alternator and belt where the original, slightly longer filter that was on the engine was very difficult to get out. I mean get out as in after it was unscrewed from the block I couldn't take it out forward, I couldn't get it out through the port locker inspection hatch. It was a pain. I've been thinking about putting the long panel of the engine enclosure on hinges so all I have to do is release it and swing it up to be able to service/inspect the engine. Also, does your boat have any type of sound deadening material installed? Been thinking of adding some because it can get a little noisy, but I hear they're very expensive materials. For regular fluid maintenance, I also want to recommend and item sold in auto supply stores that makes adding fluids much easier. It's a fitting with a length of transparent hose attached. This fitting screws directly on to oil or antifreeze bottles and it has a shutoff. Makes adding oil and antifreeze so much easier. Actually if this product came with a slightly longer hose it would make adding fluids a piece of cake but we shouldn't complain, right?
Daniel I thought of moving the motor forward but it was too much to contemplate. No no sound insulation but i dont find the noise annoying (we turn the motor off to sail and especially to sleep) yes i have the same filter problem i found a brand that sort of fitted but i had to loosen the water pipe that runs across the stbd front of the engine. I believe the boat was shipped out here new in 88 to a local order. It arrived minus rudder so the importer manufactured a dodgy looking spare until the original arrived. Anyone want a spare rudder -:)
One last question for the season (I hope) I have these spare little things that look like anodes 1/4inch diam with a brass capnut. I am sure they go somewhere in the salt water system but nothing is mentioned in the manual?? any ideas where to look?
Andy, That's a zinc that goes in your heat exchanger. My Universal M-12's heat exchanger zinc screws out of the bottom, you can't miss it. If your spare is too long, just cut it to fit.
Andy: What type of exhaust discharge flapper do you have? Is it metal or plastic? I've got a plastic one that needs replacing (repair didn't hold up very well). Wondering if you have a plastic one and whether you have access to spares.
I have the M-12 and the belt rubs on the oil filter as well. The rubbing is minor so I just live with it. dblitz is right the zinc "pencil" goes in the bottom of the heat exchanger on the port side. I have considered buying some sound insulation from one of the industrial supply catalogs (McMaster Car) or similar. It is designed for heavy equipment but is a fraction of the price of similar material sold for boats. I just have not gotten around to doing it. My only current issue is that my water pump is dripping out of the weep hole. Anyone rebuilt one of these or should I pay someone to do this?
One point I highly recommend you checking is the pick up tube in the fuel tank. I have the original plastic Tempo tank in the V berth. The pick up tube has a screen placed inside it which can become clogged with no easy way to remove it. It took me weeks to find this problem. There is a service bulletin on the engine that says to remove this screen. To remove the tube you have to cut the metal ring basically pry the tube out of the top of the tank. Since I fixed this problem the engine has never failed to start or run.
One other question. Do you guys have tachs on your engine to indicate RPMs? Mine says the engine idles at 600 and maxs out at around 2,000. I suspect the problem is with the tach and not the engine but have not confirmed with a second reading. What is your experience?
Daniel i have a plastic exhaust box now thats its strapped down it seems ok and john mymanual says engine should operate around 3ooorpm mine goes happily to 3500 i cruise around 2800
John: I took my boat from Mamaroneck, NY to Nyack NY around the middle of June and ran the engine with a leak in the impeller pump, getting progressively worse. The trip took 16 hours of straight motoring. The tachometer on my boat shows engine idle at 900 rpm. I try to never run the engine above 3000 rpms. Getting back to the impeller pump, I bought a rebuild kit for around $ 45.00 (I think it was) but then it was a job that was impossible to actually do. The old seals (2) were impossible to remove without butchering them out and I saw it as impossible to insert the new ones and I'm relatively handy. Maybe I didn't have the right tools. So I bought a whole new oberdorfer pump and the replacement was a snap.
Andy: I need a hinged plastic piece that goes on the outside of the boat on the transom that keeps water from coming IN the exhaust. Haven't been able to locate this type of fitting and want to avoid having to change the through hull. If you or John know where they can be had, I'd appreciate it.
I tried to rebuild the water pump and it is easier said than done. I think rebuilt by a professional is the way to go. I found a rebuilt Sherwood at Sea Chest Marine in San Diego for $150. That is less than half what Westerbeke wants for a new one. The guy shipped it the same day and I should get it this week. We'll see if it is as good as it sounds.
Regarding Engine RPMS. I'm fairly certain that my Tach is way off. I will verify with a second tach when I get some time. I'm puzzled that at wide open throttle I get the same RPMs whether in gear or in neutral. My understanding from reading threads on C30's and such is that the loaded RPMs should be 100 to 200 less than in neutral. Based on my experience I think that my boat is under propped. At WOT I make about 5.5 knots. The engine appears to be functioning perfectly. Can any of you relate your speed vs RPM experience? Have any of you looked at the back of your TACH? The book says that there is a calibration screw. Mine has a selector switch (A,B or C) and no cal screw. I'm not sure which one is correct.
I do not know anything about replacing the exhaust cover.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.