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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 split handrail - (update w/ pic)		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts
Initially Posted - 07/10/2006 :  20:29:17  Show Profile
The forward end of the port handrail is split between the 1st teak plug and the shoulder of the rail (see pic). The split is about 1/16 in. at its widest x 1.5 in. long. Behind the bolt, there is a hairline crack that extends rearward another 1-2 in. I tried to close the gap using a woodworkers clamp but with no effect. Any suggestions on how to repair? Really don't want water to collect in the gap and then freeze this winter. Thanks again.


PS...I am playing with the signature options...if pics are annoying or slow down downloading, let me know and I'll remove.
Gerry Livingston, Malletts Bay, VT
"Great Escape" 1989 C-25 SR/WK #5972
Edited by - glivs on 08/07/2006 19:58:17

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts
Response Posted - 07/10/2006 :  22:02:27  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Gerry,

Can you post a link to a photo of the damage?

-- Leon Sisson
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glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts
Response Posted - 07/11/2006 :  05:31:59  Show Profile
Leon,
Will do...but will not likely be able to get to the boat until this weekend.
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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts
Response Posted - 08/07/2006 :  20:13:40  Show Profile
You might want to use a hypodermic needle and fill the gap with epoxy. When it all dries, you can finish to taste. Cheers.
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existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts
Response Posted - 08/08/2006 :  17:27:16  Show Profile
Buy some teak.
Sand it.
Collect the teak sand dust.
Mix w/ epoxy.
Fill cracks.
Refinish.

Or, buy my new rails in the swap meet and replace.
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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts
Response Posted - 08/08/2006 :  17:33:44  Show Profile
What I would do is to remove the plug first. Then get a thin piece of teak and sand it until it is sharp like a knife edge. Slide it into the groove until it fills the crack nicely. This might take a little playing with it. Once you feel it fits nicely, put some glue on the sides of the wedge and tap it into the crack. After the glue dries, sand the wedge flush with the top of the rail. Put in a new teak plug and then finish with whatever you use. I have fixed lots of cracks like that and they easily become invisible.
Good Luck,
Dan
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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts
Response Posted - 08/08/2006 :  18:35:12  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
That rail looks pretty darn good for a 15+ year old boat. I'd either fill it like Don mentions or leave it alone ...unless its leaking.

If its leaking then replace it/fill it. Our original was only screwed in from the bottom - no plugs. However it was a bear to get of, then reshape (its not straight) after finishing. Then we had to worry about recaulking and everything else. Avoid complete removal at all cost...

Go sailing and leave that until just before the winter.
Edited by - Champipple on 08/08/2006 18:55:03
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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts
Response Posted - 08/08/2006 :  18:42:09  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
Gerry,
If you work with epoxy a fair amount, you probably already know this. Mixing sawdust with epoxy is something probably all of us have done at some point or another, but it's really not a good idea (apologies to Rick). Epoxy and sawdust can [url="http://www.mrfiberglass.com/safety_information.html#Other%20epoxy%20related%20hazards"]spontaneously combust[/url]. The amount you'd be dealing with for such a small crack is probably not enough to be overly concerned about, but it could be a nasty little surprise if you weren't aware of it.

I did manage to burn my hand last year repairing a hole made by a woodpecker. The squeeze bag I was using (similar to a pastry chef's decorating bag) had a baseball sized lump of epoxy in the end, tapering down to a little nozzle at the small end. I was holding it at the nozzle and just squeezing little amounts into the nearly full hole waiting for it to "kick". I reached back to give the larger lump a squeeze to move more epoxy towards the nozzle and cooked my hand a bit. The larger end had kicked before the smaller end and was hot enough to burn.

David
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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts
Response Posted - 08/09/2006 :  08:09:08  Show Profile  Visit aeckhart's Homepage
Heck, it's only a hand rail. If the crack is bothersome, put some wood putty in there, lightly sand, touch up with whatever coating you've used, and go sailing. Perfection is nice to strive for but..........sometimes the 80% solution is more practicle .
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John P
Captain

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USA
324 Posts
Response Posted - 08/10/2006 :  07:56:32  Show Profile  Visit John P's Homepage
I agree with the concept of taking some teak dust and packing it in with oil.....

Hey Gerry, greetings from across the lake!!! I am still not in the water yet for this year, but hope to get out the 1st week of Sept.
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts
Response Posted - 08/10/2006 :  14:58:12  Show Profile
Whichever good idea above you choose, I'd say it's important to fix it so moisture doesn't hang out in there and freeze this winter, making it worse. As it is, I suspect the plug got moist and expanded, splitting the rail. BTW, that is a nice looking piece of brightwork for its age!
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glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts
Response Posted - 08/11/2006 :  06:12:33  Show Profile
Thanks all for your comments...Come fall, I'll probably give Dan's suggestion a go. And Dave, thanks for noticing the brightwork. When we purchased our C25 (Fall 2004), the teak was long neglected. I'm very pleased with how nicely it cleaned up. The woodwork was not over taxing; working with the bedding compound (3M-101)to reinstall the teak was a bear...I apparently didn't wait long enough to let it cure sufficiently to easily handle.
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