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Capri 25 Specific Forum

Just a Few Questions??????

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Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/12/2006 : 12:11:28

I was up at the boat allot last week, First was the spring cleaning of the boat that should have been done in March. As time goes by things just get put off. I had the boat on the hydrohoist so I brought the front of the boat up and took clean water and got all of the crap out between the sole and the hull, I was amazed at all of the crap that I had found, along with what was around a foot of mud. I am guessing that the boat had never been cleaned this way, and for the many years that it has been sail all of the mud dobbers nest must have been just kicked off into the void.

First I still need to caulk the windows along with the chain plates. I took about an hour with the hose running to find all of the leaks. I have installed new hatch covers / seats along the quarter births. I used 1/2" plywood with a birch cover. It looks nice and will work well.

I have sold the furler on the boat and I had to take down the mast to get the dam thing off. I finally realized that there are 6" plastic wedges that are put onto the forstay before it is all put together. The forstay had been shortened, and I am going to have to buy another. Well at least I have the correct size from the newer drawings, Thanks Matt.

Also at this time I think that I am going to check the rig and make sure everything is in order. I have found that the Windex was broken and shifted about 5 deg. off of the center line, So no wonder I was having problems pointing. So here is a list of questions I have.

1. What do you all use for the Spinnaker halyard Block on the top of the mast. On our mast there is a Harken Block attached to the top ring on the mast head. I have had more problems with this block getting fouled on the Genoa halyard? I have had the halyard get stuck, ect. any info here would be great.

2. How many of you have cut a hole in the mast for a Spinnaker halyard exit plate and a cam cleat? What size of hole is needed, and should I buy a sheave to go into the mast.

3. Is there a pvc pipe going down the mast for wires? I have not taken the mast head off yet.

4. What would be the beat way to step the mast back up? I had two other guys helping with lowering the mast. I took the forstay loose, then the forward lowers, I had one halyard attached to the pulpit, and another one blocked off in the clutch, with a spinnaker sheet attached to it. I ran this thru a block I attached to the forstay tang at the forward most part of the boat. We released the halyard, and let the mast come down to rest on one of the guys shoulders, I had an extra 2x4 sitting on the dock that I wedged under the mast while I took the bolt off of the hinged mast step. then we just picked the mast up and set it on the pulpits.

5. I noticed that the upper shrouds are now twisted up so I am planning on taking them loose along with the back lowers, Other from just the sure weight of a 32'-0" long stick all went well.

6. Harry mentioned mast rake and prebend, should the mast be shimmed with some thing to get the rake right for our main sail?

7. These spreaders SUCK, After the take down they are both flopping around all over the place, and I have them now bolted up. I am thinking that I need to drill another hole to at least get the spreaders out at a 90 deg angle to the mast.

So now its close to the middle of June and its right in the middle of racing season, the rigg is down, I have to buy a new forstay, I have to fix the spreaders, Cut a hole for the spinnaker halyard, Figure out the best way of supporting the spinnaker halyard at the top of the mast, Install a new windex, Fix the wires in the mast, and get the mast back up and re-tuned for Fathers Day.

Isn't boating fun

C.S. McKillip
Ericson 33

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2006 : 12:58:50

Hey CS –

I don’t have a Capri, but a lot of these items are universal…here are my 2 cents

1. What do you all use for the Spinnaker halyard Block on the top of the mast. On our mast there is a Harken Block attached to the top ring on the mast head. I have had more problems with this block getting fouled on the Genoa halyard? I have had the halyard get stuck, ect. any info here would be great.
 Schaefer block with a 360 swivel. If you are fouling on the genoa halyard, you might look into a crane to get it out in front of the boat. Not sure if your one design rules allow for it. 

2. How many of you have cut a hole in the mast for a Spinnaker halyard exit plate and a cam cleat? What size of hole is needed, and should I buy a sheave to go into the mast. We have our spin halyard 100 percent external – If you do have the halyard internal, make it exit on Starboard so you man can jump it from the mast on the high side (at least 90 percent of the time). 

3. Is there a pvc pipe going down the mast for wires? I have not taken the mast head off yet. The 25’s don’t have one, anybody who does made an post purchase modification. 

4. What would be the beat way to step the mast back up? I had two other guys helping with lowering the mast. I took the forstay loose, then the forward lowers, I had one halyard attached to the pulpit, and another one blocked off in the clutch, with a spinnaker sheet attached to it. I ran this thru a block I attached to the forstay tang at the forward most part of the boat. We released the halyard, and let the mast come down to rest on one of the guys shoulders, I had an extra 2x4 sitting on the dock that I wedged under the mast while I took the bolt off of the hinged mast step. then we just picked the mast up and set it on the pulpits. there are a million ways to do this. Since your boat and a j24 are similar in design I’d look into the Gin Pole method that they use. I’m not qualified to discuss it, but one of their guys might be.

5. I noticed that the upper shrouds are now twisted up so I am planning on taking them loose along with the back lowers, Other from just the sure weight of a 32'-0" long stick all went well. that solution should work

6. Harry mentioned mast rake and prebend, should the mast be shimmed with some thing to get the rake right for our main sail? tight lowers (forward) with a good wrenching on the aftstay should give you what you need for prebend. If you aren’t a deck step, and I thought you were, a block at the a partners where it enters the deck would help.

7. These spreaders SUCK, After the take down they are both flopping around all over the place, and I have them now bolted up. I am thinking that I need to drill another hole to at least get the spreaders out at a 90 deg angle to the mast. most spreaders have some play. If you don’t have aft lowers, they most likely will need to be swept back to some degree and have a degree or two of play. When you tune the uppers this will tighten up. Verify this with other owners, but I’ve never seen spreaders that didn’t have a little bit or more of wiggle room

Edited by - on

existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2006 : 20:54:40

Chris,

Refer to the Yahoo group posts 921 & 922 on the spinnaker blocks in the mast. More than likely, the Harken Block on the masthead ring is not original, but was installed when the furler was.
Both Mike and Jerry have one a lot of legwork in this area.

There is also a picture that cineworks2000 posted that shows an example of externally running the halyards for the spinnaker- it's in the Rat Baby folder in picturs.

Edited by - on

SailCO26
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2006 : 10:56:56

I'm curious, what did you use for entry and exit points for the water between the sole and the hull? I suspect I need to do same as #183 sat neglected for some time.

My $0.02 (FWIW, I'm VERY short-time on this model, so take it all with appropriate amounts of spice...):

1. What do you all use for the Spinnaker halyard Block on the top of the mast.
I've got a Harken block, with a swivel. Important if you dont use a swiveling snap shackel on the spin.

2. How many of you have cut a hole in the mast for a Spinnaker halyard exit plate and a cam cleat? What size of hole is needed, and should I buy a sheave to go into the mast.
As of now, I'm still launching from the cockpit - including the halyard. That may change, I'm only 2 races into the CP25.

3. Is there a pvc pipe going down the mast for wires? I have not taken the mast head off yet.
Not on mine.

4. What would be the beat way to step the mast back up?
I've done it 2 ways: 1 with just walking the mast up with 2 people, 1 using a halyard to the trailer winch. In both cases I used an 8' 2x4 with a notch cut in the top as a crutch (placed behind the backstay tie-in, and well-bungee'd to the aft pulpit). I'll probably re-cut the crutch using a 2x6 before dropping the stick next. Of the two, I prefer using a halyard to the trailer winch - it seems to have more positive control than walking all over the cabin top tripping over winches and what-not. I've used a gin-pole for many years on my CP26, but that's a much heavier stick. Once it's bastically stepped, I attach the vang to an alternate halyard and the pulpit to run the tension while attaching the forestay.

6. Harry mentioned mast rake and prebend, should the mast be shimmed with some thing to get the rake right for our main sail?
I adjusted the rake w/o any shims, but then again I only put about 3" in (using a North Sails main). So far this has been a fast, well-pointing boat so this may be sufficient for this sail. We'll see as the season progresses. Talk with your sailmaker about how much rake the sail is cut for. Cut the forestay accordingly.
Re pre-bend: with both lowers loose tighten the fwd lowers until the desired bend is acheived (again, check with your sailmaker re the amount). Measure this using the main halyard held against the mast at the gooseneck - the depth between the line and the aft side of the mast is your pre-bend measurement. Verify the mast is still in column. Crank the backstay adj to max, then snug up the aft lowers. Again, verify the mast is still in column, adjust lowers as necessary. When you ease the backstay the tension should be taken up by the fwd lowers, and the aft lowers should slack some. Fine tune on the water.

7. These spreaders SUCK, After the take down they are both flopping around all over the place, and I have them now bolted up. I am thinking that I need to drill another hole to at least get the spreaders out at a 90 deg angle to the mast.
With the stick down and horizontal across the pulpits, I had quite a bit of "slack" in the spreaders. Based on pics, it was even mentioned at one point that I had a swept-spreader rig. Once stepped and tensioned, the spreaders were in line at really close to 90'.

Jim
#183 - Team Short Bus

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