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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
What are the measurements of the dinette table? (1977) I misplaced the measurements and can't remember. Seems like it was 24" by 43" but want to be sure. Also, what is the measurement along the front edge of the seat (where the table sits when in the down position)? I know the factory table sticks out a couple of inches past the cushions when down and makes it difficult to cross the cabin in the middle of the night. Thanks, Sid
Luckily I found my notes on building my new table, I thought I may have thrown them out. The corners against the hull do not have 90 degree angles. I don't have the angle, but I have the lengths of the seat edges. The aft edge is 42" and the forward edge is 41". The table is 24" wide. I don't have the original table length written down, but as you recall it extends out maybe 3-4" further. I'm planning to go to my boat tomorrow and I can get the measurements for you if needed.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fhopper@mac.com</i> <br />If it is not square then a butcher paper template will help him more. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Good Point Frank - it is only a few degrees, but it would probably be better with a template.
It will be pretty darn close. Our table has a fat guy side and a skinny guy side because we didn't account for the variance and cut everything square. so 1 inch over the course of 2 feet should work..
so yes I think so. You could try it with a cheap piece of ply and see what happens?
I had been looking into buying some teak boards and making a new dinette table. The teak wasn't cheap, then there was the joining and other work involved but I was close to biting the bullet. Then I saw the post of the plywood table on this site and my plans changed. However, I was in Lowe's the other day and saw that they sell panels - pine boards laminated together ready for refinishing, pre-sanded with nice grain, 3/4 inch thickness 24x48. I bought one for $21.00. I think it will look nice with a nice stain to match my teak. My only concern is the strenght as compared to 3/4 inch plywood, but I figured for $21.00 I'd give it a whirl. Maybe others have some comments.
The pine will probably not remain flat as a table, and will definitely not be stiff enough for sleeping on. You should varnish the top and bottom with the same number of coats to minimize seasonal movement (warping), but most importantly you will have to stiffen the underside at each end and maybe the middle by screwing a 1X6 or so across the grain. It should be held by tight screws and washers in the middle, and screwed at ends a bit looser through slots instead of holes to permit movement of top as it shrinks and expands throughout the season. This is why so many furniture items are made with veneer and plywood materials. Solid wood must be treated with care to avoid cupping or splitting.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.