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Jacking Trailer

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kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/14/2006 : 10:08:34

Hi folks,

Well, I am finally getting around to putting my empty trailer on jack stands to keep the wheels off the ground. I am again looking for advice from all of you that have been there before. How do you do it? Do you jack the trailer frame, put jackstands on the frame someplace and let the wheels hang? Do you jack on the leaf spring mount between the axels, and put jackstands under the leaf spring mount on each axel? Do you jack it with two (or three) jacks?

It seemed like a no brainer until I started to think about how to actually do it. Probably IS a no brainer, and I have no brain...

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Kevin Mackenzie
Former Association Secretary and Commodore
"Dogs Allowed"
'06 C250WK #881
and
"Jasmine"
'01 Maine Cat 30 #34

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1768 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2006 : 10:29:16

Hi Kevin,

I don't know if there is any particular procedure, but here's what I did ...

I placed a 2-ton floor jack under the trailer frame, lifted it up, then supported the frame with cinder blocks to keep the wheels off the ground. I supported the trailer in a total of four places, each one a few feet ahead or behind the axles on each side. Since I was storing the trailer on ground instead of a hard surface like concrete, I also used those flat pieces of cinder block material ('sorry, I don't know what they're called

) under the cinder blocks so they wouldn't sink into the dirt. It wasn't fancy, but it worked fine.

'Hope that helps ... I'm sure others will have some ideas, too ... good luck!

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1314 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2006 : 12:31:34

Kevin: For winter storage of the boat and trailer, I use 4 standard concrete blocks. To place the blocks under the trailer I use a fifth block together with a 6ft long 2x8" and canter level lift the BACK corner of the trailer first, place the block with a 1x2 wood on top and let the trailer down and then repeat this procedure on the next BACK corner. Before I place the blocks under the frame, I wind down the trailer hitch as far as it will go which will lift the back of the trailer somewhat. Then I raise the front of the trailer as far as it will go, canter lever the last portion and place the front 2 blocks and voila, all done for the season.

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Keith D.
Navigator

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USA
233 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2006 : 20:08:40

Kevin I have tried jack stands on the trailer frame and under the axles. Only because it is easier I have cut a 4X6 down to four 6 ½” blocks which I put under the axles. Even with the boat on the trailer it only takes about 4 pumps with a 1-½ ton floor jack to take the tire off the ground. Since I am only jacking the trailer up 1 inch I can do one wheel at a time. If you put floor stands under the frame you will have to jack the trailer up about 5 inches as you unload the springs and the wheels hang down on them. One inch is easier than 5 inches. Also if I am lazy I can hook the trailer up and drive it off the blocks since they only drop down 1 inch as it comes off of the blocks. Again taking the trailer off the blocks is very easy. I don’t think anyone even notices the boat is up on blocks. They are very stable at only 6 ½” vs. 24” the frame stands need to be at. The floor stands tend to rust after about a year in the weather, where as the wooden blocks haven’t changed much.

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kevinmac
Admiral

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USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2006 : 23:33:09

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Keith, I think your method is the best one for me. One question: Do you jack on the leaf spring bracket under each axle, and put the block on the axle itself, or vice versa - jack on the axle, and put the block under the leaf spring bracket on the axle. Or something else. I don't want to mess up my trailer by jacking it wrong...

Thanks,

Kevin

Edited by - on

kevinmac
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
732 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2006 : 20:56:28

I put my trailer on blocks today using Keith's method. For some reason, my blocks needed to be slightly longer than his 6.5", maybe there has been a suspension change in the trailers. In any case, I put the bottle jack on the leaf spring on one side (fore/aft) of the axle and the block on the other side. I put one block of wood on each wheel, and one on the tongue. Because of my parking situation, I put 2.25" thick cement pathway steps under each block, to keep the critters out of the wood.

I thought it would be unstable, but it does not seem to be, at least to moderate shoves in various directions. And as Keith points out, if it falls off, so what... I will probably just tow it off when it is time to use it this summer.

I put black plastic bags on the winch and strap, and on the tongue for UV/corrosion protection.

Another task off the list, and another thing learned from this great association and site. Thanks everyone...

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2006 : 22:24:19

This chatter and a back yard patio project got me doing something as well. I needed 3.5 yards for the patio and redi mix has a 4 yard minimum so a 2x6 form was made to make six 2 foot square blocks.

My thinking was that I wanted the concrete set in the ground so it didn't move but also wanted it three inches above the ground. That thinking was good but the problem was that where I park my boat is where the redi mix truck needed to back so I couldn't preset the forms and I didn't want large integral pads of concrete six feet long (too permanent). So, as the concrete truck moved out, six blocks were poured, which then needed moved into two rows of three.

They were too heavy to lift and not fun to set but some levering and sweat got them into place and level. Doing again, I'd definately go with no more than 3.5 inches thick rather than 5.5 inches. 3.5 inch pads are available at building supply but I'm not sure they come in 2 foot square... they are usually 16" square which is certainly plenty large to support, though not large enough to drive on leaving space for both the jack and block.

They are spaced so as to provide 4 inches outside the tires. This leaves exta inside for a small bottle jack to set on the blocks and jack the axle near the spring bolts. To support, I followed Keiths lead and used some scrap cedar 4x10 cut seven inch long and made a patern of the U bolts bolting the axle to to the springs so as to bore four one inch holes to allow the axle mounting U bolts and nuts to recess into the holes so that the plate under the spring rest on the block rather than any chance of buggering the U bolt threads.

Seven inches puts the tires about 1/2 inch off the pads. Takes about two minutes to jack and set a block.

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 04/15/2006 22:30:42

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.