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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Outboard control

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jking
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110 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/11/2006 : 11:22:46

New boat still being commissioned, with warm sunny days and good wind (NOT including the numerous tornadoes last Friday, which were devastating to several surrounding communities.)

I ordered the Honda 9.9 with remote control, but on further study (on board and on this forum) it seems that maybe the outboard tiller-mounted controls are OK, and the remont may be unnecessary, as well as untidy (I have the Edson wheel steering.)

Does anyone with remote engine controls regret them? Does anyone with only tiller controls on their outboard regret them?

My outboard is not fully rigged, and I can always add the remote controls later, but they would be hard to remove if I end up not liking them.

John
250 WB #887
'Flying Wasp' , formerly 'MAD MOM'

Edited by - on

lewalskim
1st Mate

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70 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2006 : 11:41:23

John,
I also have wheel steering and since I sit at the helm position, I almost always turn the outboard to help steer while in my marina. Since my hand is on the outboard, it isn't anything to use the controls mounted on the o/b tiller.

I imagine that if you go with the remote control setup, you might want to mod your boat with Arlyn's o/b, rudder, bungee idea.

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jking
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110 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2006 : 12:15:37

Thanks, Mark.

Some have said that the outboard tiller makes turning the motor more difficult, because of the small size of the motor mount area on the transom. What is your experience?

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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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1913 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2006 : 13:47:36

John,
It depends on your motor, My 8hp 2 cycle will only turn one way. The tiller handle hits the fuel locker when I turn it the other. But others with the newer 4 cycles can slide their motor over on the transom toward the starboard and have no problem turning either way. So its going to depend on your manufacture and size motor. Do a search on outboards on the site and you'll find plenty of info relating to this topic.

Edited by - Tom Potter on 04/11/2006 13:49:02

jguyot
1st Mate

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USA
97 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2006 : 16:47:08

Hi John,
I have a Honda 8hp with all the controls at the wheel and I really like it! The best thing is with all the controls at the wheel you don't have to take your eyes off what you are doing. Makes it much easier to control the boat if you are not looking and reaching back to change speed or to shift.
You will have to buy the Edson controls for the pedestal though. You will also have to buy some parts from your Honda dealer as well. When you buy the full remote package, as I did, the motor does not come with the "Friction Lever" to keep the motor in the same position (Not Turning). This "lever" fits right under the front of the engine and slides left or right and is easy to install and I believe was around $15 for the parts.
I also mounted the key, buzzer and warning lights to a pod on the pedestal. If you need pics, let me know.

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jking
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110 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2006 : 21:26:27

Thanks for the info, Jerry. I looked at the Edson remote in their web catalog; I bought the pedestal guard but thought the engine control was pretty pricey (but what isn't.) With all the gear I have bought for the boat, the Admiral will lock me in the cabin and detonate the scuttling charges if I try to spend much more (hence the name of the boat!!)

Seriously, I did like the neat appearance of the Edson control, and may try to get it next season. The dealer should have my Honda 9.9 'dry mounted' tomorrow or Thursday; maybe I will use it like that for a few sails to gauge the performance of the outboard controlled by its tiller.

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Arlyn Stewart
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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2006 : 21:36:38

John, I believe you will be happy either way. The Honda will yield a full port turn and a 20 degrees starboard or 30 degrees if a little grinding is done on the steering arm assembly.

The motor tiller will stand straight up when in use so this puts the throttle within hands reach while standing at the wheel and only a slight reach is needed for the kill switch while standing. The gear shift is front mounted and requires bending to reach if standing, sitting on the fuel locker the gear shift is an easy reach.

I find the 30 degree limitation no problem and it happens to be the right direction if the soft link is used as it is the direction in which the bungee pulls so no interference with rudder operation. The soft link is a must... especially with wheel steering as the slight bit of loading has no effect on the wheel.

Keep in mind that the soft link is for docking, if motoring any appreciable distance or at greater speeds, disconnect the soft link and lock the motor strait. The soft link can be use to hold the motor centered but I'd suggest the friction adjuster lock as mentioned above as it is so easy to use.

Once again, either way you go... you will be happy. You will want to coordinate the rudder and motor for docking... it is a must on the 250 and I'd suggest the soft link though there are some who are trying the EZ Steer hard link. My problem with a hard link and hence why I developed the soft link is that the motor turn is limited in one direction and a hard link will limit the rudder as well, but with the soft link the rudder can turn fully while the motor stops at 20-30 degrees when the tiller handle assembly contacts the fuel locker. Plus, the soft link is simple, cheap, functionally perfect and as easy as it gets to connect and disconnect.

You will want to tell the mounters of the motor that you wish the axle for raising the motor to be a sixteenth of an inch from the starboard side of the well.... as far to starboard as they can physically get the motor, which may require changing the high desnsity plastic transom plate or shifting the existing. The drain hole in the plastic piece will need moved.

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 04/11/2006 21:43:49

jguyot
1st Mate

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USA
97 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2006 : 22:02:17

John,
Double check with the dealer.........When I ordered my 8hp with the remote package it did not come with the tiller handle or controls...... it only came withe the remote package

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AADIVER
Admiral

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USA
966 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2006 : 00:50:01

Why is it that inboard engine boats can dock without adjusting the angle of their props and our 250's have difficulty without the ability to match the outboard prop angle with the rudder? I should say, "your" 250's. Adjusting only rpm's, forward, neutral, and reverse, I've had no trouble whatsoever maneuvering in and out of my upwind slip with my tiller helm.

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2006 : 07:30:16

Frank, inboards have the luxury of blasting water past the rudder and thus using quick power burst as thrusters. Slow turns can be used for prop walk. Weight of the boat is a big factor. Heavier boats are reluctant to lurch forward to those quick power burst and because of the slower motion of the heavier boat, the rudder can be thrusted and there is time left to hit reverse and then counter the forward movement provided by the thrust and yet benefit from its side effect.

For those who are less fortunate and don't have an upwind slip... docking the 250 has proven to be a challenge that is made much easier by motor thrusting.

The problem is thrusting the motor, watching what is happening and coordinating the motor and the rudder... all of which can be like watching a one armed paper hanger. The process is made much easier by linking the outboard and the rudder.

The lighter 250 also suffers greater windage influence than most boats that would be equipped with an inboard.

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 04/15/2006 07:40:30

AADIVER
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Response Posted - 04/15/2006 : 15:28:38

Thank you, Arlyn, for your very clear, concise explanation of the difference between inboard and outboard maneuverability.
Re the loose mainsheet posts, can I simply remove my sail from the bolt track and reconnect clew and tack, or does a sail loft have to alter the clew?

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johnsonp
Admiral

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606 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2006 : 16:28:46

Well Arlyn....
I'm a one armed paper hanger and provided the nightly dock entertainment at Tahoe Keys.

The applause I received is very rewarding...since I, like Frank will be seventy something Nov this year I'm not sure how long I can keep it up.
May have to convert to your setup.

paulj C250WK #719

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2006 : 18:41:24

Paul...I'm sorry I missed it

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2006 : 18:42:44

Frank, no need for any sail loft work... simply remove the bolt rope and leave the clew slug in the boom slot and see whatcha think...

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AADIVER
Admiral

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966 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2006 : 23:54:14

Will I have to remove the boom from the gooseneck to remove the sail from the bolt slot/track or will it pull out without removing it?
BTW, just ordered mast gates from CD. Don't understand what a "jack line" is to facilitate reefing.

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jking
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110 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2006 : 07:33:04

I love this forum. Pick a topic, and get good info on that topic, plus at least one more!

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Arlyn Stewart
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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2006 : 08:02:44

Frank, yes.... likely you will have to pull the goose neck to get the foot rope out of the boom slot.

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AADIVER
Admiral

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966 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2006 : 21:31:11

No, I didn't have to detach the boom from the mast. Simply removed the tack shackle and the sail slid right out. Quite a simple and, I hope, effective mod. Thanks again for the tip.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.