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Capri 25 gotchas?

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SailCO26
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/07/2005 : 15:03:35

Recently sold my Capri 26, very interested in picking up a Capri 25. Have gotten the racing bug.

Looking for any info on what to look for when purchasing a Capri 25, and what I should know up front about racing them.

The racing I'll be doing is all club-level, beer can racing. The fleet I'd be in mainly consists of J22s, J24s, Merit25s and some misc hardware. No Capri 25s to date.

Thanks in advance for any info!
Jim

CP25 #183 - Team Short Bus
Capri25 Measurer 2007(ish)-2010
Douse: [dous] v, a: to lower or take in suddenly; b: to stow quickly; c: ease, with vigor
---
Regret is the bastard child of desire and inaction.

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2005 : 00:38:10

Jim, I will try and go thru a check list that I used when buying our Capri 25. and answer any questions that you might have. We bought our boat last year and just got into racing ourselfs so I might save you some time.

#1 First you want to look at the rudder, move it back and forth and see if there is loose play in it. If it is loose you can fix it with some Mylar sheets, it’s a simple fix.

#2 Check the interior bulkheads, there are 4 two are up front that will be easy to see, open the cabin lockers and look at the base of the bulkheads for rot, or water stains. The bulkheads are again easy to replace, except for the port side, as you have to rotate the compression post to get it out.

The rear bulkheads are kind of a joke, but make sure that they are there, and in good shape.

#3 If there is a floor (teak and holly) you will not be able to lift it up unless it is unscrewed. Stress cracks extend from the keel bolt locker out towards the edges. The floor is a liner so it is not a major structure. Lift the keel bolt locker and inspect the keelbolts, they are stainless so no rust should be present.

#4 If the battery is charged turn on the lights and check them out. Mine didn't work, but 2 screws and some coke did the trick. There was just build up over time.

#5 Get down on you knees and lift the cooler locker top. Slide inside this space, its cramped, and check for water on the floor. There really is no bilge on the Capri 25 just a big void between the hull and liner, If the water has been sitting a long time, you might have a major problem with a piece of plywood that Catalina fitted to the keel hull joint. If possible and on a trailer try moving the keel back and forth and see if there is any movement, at this time check the Keel to hull joint, this is sealed with 3m 5200 or a similar product.

#6 Standing rigging, Most all of the Capri 25's came with a Tuff Luff system on the forestay, check and see if there is a prefeeder, feeder, and the quality of the plastic extrusion, replacement cost for this is around 450.00

#7 Hardware, check and see if all of the lines and sheets are located on the boat. I am sure that you know what lines you will need for the boat since you had a Capri 26 But I will list them.
Spinnaker Halyard, Jib Halyard, Genoa Halyard, Main Halyard, Main Sheet, Genoa sheets, Spinnaker Sheets, Cunningham, Boomvang, Toping Lift, Downhaul, Outhaul, Twingers and blocks, Backstay. The main sheet should be a 4 to 1, BoomVang 4 to 1. I am sure there are a few lines missing here but this is the main count in my book. Make sure that you get the spinnaker blocks on the track, Genoa cars, spinnaker pole,and the sails covered in #8

#8 Sails, you should have a complete set of sails with the boat. Main, 100 to 110, 130, 155, spinnaker. Take the sails out and check them for tears, rips, rust, stains, etc. make sure there are battens for the main and the 100 if needed.

#9 Windows, The windows on these boats suck, if they are leaking they can be fixed thru Catalina Direct for around 100.00 and about 4 to 6 hours of your time.

#10 Interior hatch covers and cushions, I would just make sure all of the hatch covers are there and the cushions. Catalina can make brand new ones for you for around 1200.00, But you will be racing the boat so these will set at the dock, or in my case in the Garage all season long.

#11 check the spreaders by moving the stays back and forth, Our boats are loose and will need to be fixed. If you have a loose gauge, mine are set at 42 lower front 47 stay, and 39 rear lower, there are a ton of options for the tensions but you want to make sure that they are not really tight, this will cause the mast to sink into the cabin top.

#12 I have never heard of any core rott except for the plywood Keel support, the boat is cored with a material called core matt. Check or ask about the bottom paint, most of these boats are using VC17.

Thats about it as far as I know, I would sail the boat first to make sure that you like it, the Yahoo group has some good info on it, just start reading thru the post, WYC is a good place to look for a used boat for sell. There is also one under Sailingtexas.com. Most of these boat range in the 6000-10,000 range, but you can pick up one that needs repair fro cheaper, you just have to look around.

As for a racing boat goes in the 25ft range, we were going to buy a J24, It’s a great OD Fleet and you can always find good supply of parts and used sails for a great price, If you have sailed on a J24 you will know that the cockpit sucks, and it chews the crap out of the crew. The Capri 25's cockpit is huge. We have had 7 on the boat racing in 25+ knots. The boat handled very well but needed to be trimmed and tuned all of the time. It's a very active boat to sail. In lighter winds you can be passing the 28's down wind. The boats hull is flat, and the freeboard is set very low, so it would be a WET boat in my book. The boat if sailed right will sail to her pHRF numbers very well. I have seen the boat beat J24's and Merit 25's all day long. It was not the skippers as they both are really good at what they do. The boat likes to be sailed flat, and you need to sail off the wind to gain speed then go into a pointing mode. The boat down wind likes to be sailed close to the lee, making a shorter rumbline to the mark on a W/L race. I really like our Capri 25, It’s a sexy looking boat, that handles well, it has enough room on her to take out 7 to 9 people on a day cruse with out stepping all over one another.

Well thats about it for now, if there is anything I can answer let me know.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2005 : 04:49:26

J-24s are for people who show up, race the boat and go home, no pleasure sailing. I used to own and loved a Merit 25, The choice between the two would be primarily based on the predominant weather, light air = Capri 25, Heavy air = Merit 25. It is always better to have a boat with sisterships at your club. Why did you sell the Capri 26? It is one of the most beautiful boats ever built!

Edited by - on

existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2005 : 05:41:20

Check all the cabin top hardware, it tends to get leaky with time. Sometimes hard to trace because the water will often go inside the liner. Also the pulpit mounts like to leak. Usually this will show as water stains in the vberth locker. While looking in the vberth locker, check the tab towards the center of the boat, if it's been run aground hard, this will have cracked.
If you have a torque wrench or can get one, check the torque on the keel bolts, should be 83 ft/lbs. If they are real loose or sink into the liner when tightened, the plywood is probably in poor shape. That's a big repair, but still in the relm of do it yourself.
I've done and will do a lot of work on mine, but I have no regrets. As Chris said, it's a great boat for a group and easily set up to single hand.
Good luck!

Edited by - existentialsailor on 12/08/2005 06:40:02

SailCO26
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2005 : 09:53:10

Thanks for all the great tips/info! Very much appreciated.

I sold my C26 for a couple of reasons, mainly because I couldnt sail it to the numbers (the club here PHRF'd me at 190!), and I really wasnt using any of the ammenities with the exception of the head during dock parties! I agree it's a WONDERFUL boat, and for a mid-20's cruiser it's perfect. I owned it since '97, sailed it solo probably 90%+ of the time.

Also, for my 40th b-day last year I started a life-long dream, working on my pilot's license! One of the few things more fun than sailing.

The C25 is about 1/2 the cost (or less) of the C26, so for the trade-"down" not only do I get a better racing boat, but more $ for flying (if you think BOATS are expensive....).

One thing I do see being an issue is the sym kite. The C26 uses an A-sail, very easy on the crew. Will be interesting to see how "training" the crew to run a pole works. Along with balancing the boat (they like to wander at times!).

I would definitely prefer to sail the boat before buying, unfortunatly that may be tough since there's VERY few here in CO (I only know of 1, and he's at a diff lake - should have gotten his number...). Don't like long-distance purchasing, but may have no choice.

What do you all use to haul the boat with, and do you launch/recover with a tongue extension and what size?

Thanks again for the great info, here's hoping to still be in the sailboat business!
Jim

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2005 : 12:39:40

Lets face it, the boat leaks.... If all of the hardware is bedded down right, and the windows are tight, and the stantions don't leak, the boat still will get water in her. I have found that the side T-tracks that go all the way down the side of the boat do leak, Catalina used butyl tape to seal the tracks, When I pulled mine up to replace, the tape was very hard, and came right off in hard sections. I repaled the tape, but added allot more than nessary. A great test for finding water leaks is to go and buy colored chalk, and run several lines on the hull on the inside of the boat. After a good rain go and see where the water ran the chalk, then you know right where to fix, and rebed hardware. If the boat looks like a ty-dyed shirt you know there will be some work to be done.

As for a sail, If you want to get on a plane and fly out here I would take you out on our boat, Its snowing right now, but I wouldn't think that would bother a guy from CO. Steven Douglass lives in SD, CA. He is racing this Sunday, He might be willing to take you out for a sail. If you wait untell spring, We have 7 at our club, 4 of us are very active, and the other 3 sit. If you are looking for a really nice boat, the one on Sailing texas is about the nicest one I have seen in a while (photos). Email him he might take you out to sail the boat. It does come with a trailer.

Speaking of trailers, Yes the boat can be put in the water using a ramp. I have a 1998 Ford Explorer w/ 4x4 and a V6. It was not the best of choices to haul the boat but had no problems with it. We needed about 12 ft. of extention to float the boat off our ramp. The trailer I have was made for a San Juan 24, Its a Dual axle w/ drum brakes, it has two post in the rear and 1 u-shaped board in the center of the boat. It took us 2 hrs to get it on the trailer right, and could have used more weight up front.

Edited by - on

SailCO26
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2005 : 14:30:15

C.S.-

Thanks for the additional info. There are 2 C25 listings on the SailingTexas website, but only 1 w/ a trailer (Black Rock, CT). I've already sent an email requesting adtl info, but haven't heard back. I'll have to give him a call. Does appear to be a nice boat!

Jim

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2005 : 17:26:23

Jim, He posted the info first on the Yahoo site, which I own. I told him to place the add on sailing texas, and it is also placed on WYC's for sale page as well as the forsale at www.windycrest.com, I am the webmaster there also. The boat does seem to be in really good shape for the age. It also seems that he has put alot of time working on the boat, or fixing it up. Note the plexiglass cooler cover in one of the photos, I have never seem this on any of the Capri 25's too much weight I guess, I will be going to the local plexiglass place here and having one made for our boat, as well as a new companionway hatch, Ours has seen its last years and needs to be fixed badly. There are alot of others out there for sale, but none come close to this boat, I also placed it for sale here in the classifed section. I try and do everything I can to help out. Again if you are ever in the area, I will be happy to take you out for a sail. open invatation. Most of the money for these boats are for the rigging and the newer sails, mains and genoas get expensive, and they will put you in the hole really fast if you have to buy all new up front. It really is a nice racer/cruzzzzer sailboat. I still am trying to put ours back together, I still have a small list of stuff to do, but she is getting close. I can't wait for the chance for my wife and I to go spend the weekend on her. our boat was almost spotless inside when we got her, I have made small messes with the fiberglass work, but the wife is always on hand to help in cleanup. The cheapest Capri 25 I have seen sold was for 350.00 on ebay. Somebody got a hell of a deal. The boat needed a mast and boom, and I don't think there were any sails, but the hull looked in good condition. They will pop up on Ebay from time to time so keep a lookout, Most boats will go up for sale in the spring time. You might be able to get a cheaper one this winter. I will ask at our club and see if the other three owners might be interested in selling their Capri's. I have not seen them move all year long, and I know one that has been sitting for 2 years at the least. Well back to the drawing board.

Edited by - on

SailCO26
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2005 : 10:45:55

Big thanks for the info, still trying to get in touch with Mike. Will try calling this weekend.

Do you know anything about putting a boat/trailer on a truck and having it hauled? I could probably make MN or TX to pick one up, but CT is prob outta my range.

Jim

Edited by - on

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2005 : 11:43:41

you might be able to make an arrangment with the owner to meet you half way with the boat. Yes there are people who ship sailboats all over the US. My guess is that the tires would come off the trailer and the boat and trailer would be put onto a flatbed Truck. I had gotten a quote from a trucking company to have a 36ft. sailboat shipped frm NY to OK. Needless to say it was around 10,000.00.

Steven emailed me back from reading the post here, He is located in San Francisco Bay area. He said you would be welcome to come out and sail with him also. Have you checked with the people at WYC? They might have a couple of boats there, and it would be a shorter drive for you. I will keep my ears open if anything comes up here in Oklahoma.

Edited by - on

SailCO26
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2005 : 15:03:14

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Needless to say it was around 10,000.00<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Ooofff! For that kinda dough, even CT would be in my range!

Thanks again for the info, and will keep an eye here for more. Looking fwd to joining the crowd.

Edited by - on

existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2005 : 07:36:00

SailCO26,
Another detail that you may or may not be aware of, is that a fresh water boat, especially one that is hauled in the winter, will in general, be in better shape than a boat predominately sailed on the ocean. Standing rigging and hardware in particular takes a real beating from the salt. A boat that is hauled every winter has that amount of time for things to "dry out".

Edited by - on

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