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Galley Drain To-Hull Replacement

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ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/10/2018 : 08:08:03

I just splashed my boat last Sunday and noticed a very small leak near the to-hull for the galley drain. The valve is closed, but still has a very small leak (i.e. maybe a drop every few minutes. Went back Tuesday and there was no collection of water, but dampness was present). Due to this, I'm hauling the boat to replace the to-hull with a proper thru-hull. I'm convinced that the leak is coming from where the valve connects to the thru-hull rather than with the thru-hull itself. For a bandaid, I have applied a 2-part marine epoxy to the joint which temporarily stopped the leak. That said, I have ordered everything to replace the to-hull with the proper thru-hull suggested by CD.

Before beginning, I want to get feedback on how the process goes. I'm an hour and a half from my boat and the boat is about 20 min away from the nearest town, so I want to be sure I am 100% prepared to install the thru-hull, as I would ideally like to haul, install, and re-launch all in the same day. Here is my basic understanding of the process:

1) Disconnect existing hoses from valve.

2) Remove old thru hull - Sounds like this can range from 1) simply breaking off when applying pressure with hand to 2) having to grind out. If it needs to be cut/ground out, what type of tool has anyone used? Sounds like a 4.5" angle grinder is the ideal tool for the job, with a 1/4" disk? I called CD and they said it will either snap off or twist off if I would attempt to remove the valve.

3) Smooth interior surface of hull by grinding down the "volcano". Again, is the angle grinder the preferred tool for this? Do you have to grind out any additional fiberglass to allow a shallow enough depth for the new thru-hull to pass through? Seems like there is a smaller square portion of built up fiberglass around the to-hull (maybe built up a 1/4" higher than the rest of the hull).

4) Install plywood backing plate to interior of hull using WestSystems epoxy. I plan on soaking the plywood at home prior to heading to the boat.

5) Drill 1" hole for new thru-hull from the outside of the hull, at a 90% angle to the hull. How thick is the hull at this point? I have read 5/8". Want to be sure I'm getting a hole saw that is long enough. I'm thinking this would do the job: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-in-Hole-Dozer-Hole-Saw-with-Arbor-49-56-9662/202327732

6) Install new thru-hull. Sand existing bottom paint off exterior of hull where thru hull will be bonded. Seal thru-hull with 5200. How long after applying 5200 can I re-launch?

7) Attach new valve to interior portion of thru-hull, re-connect plumbing.

8) Launch boat!

#2 and #3 are where I really have questions, since those are where I see a potential time-suck. Rest of the steps seem pretty straight forward. CD tech support says this is an hour long process

. Sounds a tad optimistic, but I'm thinking if I'm prepared for steps #2 and #3, this can't be any longer than a 3 hour or so process. I was thinking about doing this first thing in the morning, (around 9), have everything done by noon, head out to crew on another boat, and by that time all epoxies/sealants should be cured enough to re-launch late afternoon. Is this doable?

Look forward to any feedback!

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

Bladeswell
Captain

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490 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2018 : 09:24:30

Hi Hi,

As others have stated here,(about step #2) sometimes it can be removed by simply pulling it out by hand. Other times, as in like mine, it was a bit harder to remove. That being said, after step #1 there isn't a need to cut it off from the inside, Though you will probably need to use your side grinder to cut away the volcano at the base of the pipe but only to the pipe. no need to go thru the pipe unless you just want to. I did. Sense you will have the boat out of the water, the easiest next step is to use a long 1" hole saw as you pictured and drill from the outside in. To-hull is now gone.
Now you are ready to prep for step #3, installing the new thru-hull. BTW, 1/2"-5/8" is correct about the hull thickness in that area. At least it was for my boat. You mentioned that you would "soak" your plywood backing board overnight. Umm..soak it in what..? If it is marine grade plywood, you should coat all sides and edges with a couple of coats of resin. It doesn't have to be epoxy resin but you do want to insure it is sealed. Speaking of the backing board, in all cases like this, it is advised to use one. However, after giving it some thought, wood exposed to water equals wood rot. Hense sealing. So what I did was make my backing out of several layers of fiberglass starting with a rough circle of about 10", with the next layer ,(going up from the hull) at about 9" and so on until I had reached about a 1/4" backing thickness. Permanent and can not rot. On the inside of the hull, in regards to prep, I would say do not thin down the hull thickness by grinding. Simply grind away the remainder of the volcano so that your chosen version of backing will lay flush to the hull. A long version of the 1" hole saw is available and I advise you to have one on hand. I think Home Depot had it, if not True Value Hardware or Ace will. Best of luck.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

VictorS
1st Mate

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Mexico
32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2018 : 09:58:57

My choice is (have not installed yet) to follow Wayne Canning�s tutorial (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9ZBrBWnNAs). So I ordered the Groco hardware through Walmart.com (same price as other choices, but a great s&h timing); had cut the G10 backing plate; and got the suggested Plexus adhesive. Having the volcano removed was easy, make sure you have a vacuum cleaner while cutting...

Victor Salcedo
1978 C25. #453. FK. SR. L.
CTYK0453M78C

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2018 : 10:21:05

Helpful information!

Bladeswell, I am going to soak the plywood in WestSystems epoxy. I am unsure if what CD provides is marine grade, but if I soak in the 2 part epoxy, I will get the water resistance and some additional strength out of the backing plate.

If I have a 1" hole saw, will the old thru-hull fit through the middle of the saw to be completely removed? Also, do you have to drill in from a different angle for the new thru-hull so it sits flush on the inside?

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

RandyAmy
1st Mate

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USA
40 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2018 : 12:17:16

I am going to be doing this project on my 1980 SK this weekend. I have the thru-hull fittings and plan on cutting marine ply for the backer plate. Any suggestions on the dimensions of the backer? I am thinking 4" square. Doing the galley and well as cockpit drains through hull.

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9047 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2018 : 20:59:09

No time to search for you, but I recall somebody posted to our Tech Tips on this project, and there are numerous threads in this forum (using Search). I think your steps listed here just about cover it. 4" backers should be ample--that gives room to attach the valve and ample stiffness against turning the ball valve handle or something bumping into it.

In the threads in our archives, you'll be gratified (in a way) by the remarks that the old bronze pipes came out of the volcanoes with almost no effort.

It's a worthwhile project!

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/11/2018 08:02:48

Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 05/11/2018 : 09:43:31

Hello Again,

Now I understand what you meant by "soak". Thanks for clearing that up. Yes, once the wood backing is saturated with West System Epoxy it will be just fine. In fact you just couldn't do better. Yes, the 1" hole saw will go outside of the pipe so it will be cut free. On my boat, the to-hull pipe was not at a 90 degree angle so after removal it was necessary to fill and patch the hole then re drill the new hole at 90 degrees for the new thru-hull. I hope this helps. Best of luck.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/12/2018 : 18:12:05

Stinkpotter, I will have to search the tech tips again. I tried a search and couldn�t find exactly what I was looking for.

RandyAmy, let me know how your project goes!

Another thought, I have had people from my sailing club and guys at my local sailing shop say the �bandaid � fix shouldwork through the end of the season. Thoughts? I do think it is a leak between the thru Hull and valve and not the thru Hull itself. Trust the band aid or replace?

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

odonnellryanc
Navigator

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108 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2018 : 18:00:37

Ryan,

My boat was sailing for a few years with essentially a cork in the thru-hull to stop water intrusion (not my doing!).

I think the point is, can you sleep with the repair? I would not be able to and I would want to fix it right if I thought it could cause an issue.

Maybe this would not be so bad, however these thru-hulls themselves should absolutely be repaired.

My thru-hull has been since glassed over and the sink now has nowhere to drain, but I only use it to store air-horns and assorted electronics :)

Do you have a good bilge pump? Backup? One that will actually pump water should it start to leak in that area of the boat?

Do you sleep on your boat? Do you have wax seals to plug up a worse leak?

Etc.. if you think that you'll be OK with the risk, sure, it will probably be ok!

hewebb
Admiral

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USA
761 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 05:47:55

I just did this on a friends boat (Not a Catalina). The old thru-hull was tough. I built a round plug slightly tapered with a guide hole in the center and pushed it into the thru-hull then drilled it out with the hole saw. We installed the new one with 4200 (Owners choice). I used 5200 on a thru-hull for my boat.

1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake
Hobie 18 Lake Worth

Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 07:10:45

quote:
Originally posted by odonnellryanc

Ryan,

My boat was sailing for a few years with essentially a cork in the thru-hull to stop water intrusion (not my doing!).

I think the point is, can you sleep with the repair? I would not be able to and I would want to fix it right if I thought it could cause an issue.

Maybe this would not be so bad, however these thru-hulls themselves should absolutely be repaired.

My thru-hull has been since glassed over and the sink now has nowhere to drain, but I only use it to store air-horns and assorted electronics :)

Do you have a good bilge pump? Backup? One that will actually pump water should it start to leak in that area of the boat?

Do you sleep on your boat? Do you have wax seals to plug up a worse leak?

Etc.. if you think that you'll be OK with the risk, sure, it will probably be ok!

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 07:17:19

quote:
Originally posted by odonnellryanc

Ryan,

My boat was sailing for a few years with essentially a cork in the thru-hull to stop water intrusion (not my doing!).

I think the point is, can you sleep with the repair? I would not be able to and I would want to fix it right if I thought it could cause an issue.

Maybe this would not be so bad, however these thru-hulls themselves should absolutely be repaired.

My thru-hull has been since glassed over and the sink now has nowhere to drain, but I only use it to store air-horns and assorted electronics :)

Do you have a good bilge pump? Backup? One that will actually pump water should it start to leak in that area of the boat?

Do you sleep on your boat? Do you have wax seals to plug up a worse leak?

Etc.. if you think that you'll be OK with the risk, sure, it will probably be ok!

Right now I plan on heading out tomorrow to check on the "band-aid" fix. That will give me a week to see if there is any sign of water. At this point, I'm planning on rolling with this fix through the season if there is no sign of water, but will fix if there is any water at all. If I roll with it, I'll have plenty of "emergency" gear aboard in case of a failure (plugs, wax, etc.).

I do have the manual bilge pump, but no electric backup for when I am not there. Sleep on the boat on occasion, but usually at the dock and not on the hook/anchor.

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 07:21:29

quote:
Originally posted by RandyAmy

I am going to be doing this project on my 1980 SK this weekend. I have the thru-hull fittings and plan on cutting marine ply for the backer plate. Any suggestions on the dimensions of the backer? I am thinking 4" square. Doing the galley and well as cockpit drains through hull.

Randy, how did your project go?

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

odonnellryanc
Navigator

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108 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 08:50:18

I'd put in an electric bilge, you'll want one anyway. Maybe even do a quick-and-dirty water level alarm if you want to be woken up if anything happens :)

Parts will be a few bucks on defender/amazon. Smaller bilge pumps are fairly cheap. Worth it!

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 08:56:49

quote:
Originally posted by odonnellryanc

I'd put in an electric bilge, you'll want one anyway. Maybe even do a quick-and-dirty water level alarm if you want to be woken up if anything happens :)

Parts will be a few bucks on defender/amazon. Smaller bilge pumps are fairly cheap. Worth it!

How would you do the new bilge pump? I'm imagining placing the pump in the bilge, run power directly to battery (?), run hose through new thru hull above water line (or can I connect to the same hose that exists for the manual bilge pump [cut existing line, install "T" connector to attach hose from new bilge pump)? That sounds like an easy hour project.

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

odonnellryanc
Navigator

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108 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 09:38:40

I run my bilge pump directly to the battery, but I still put a fuse on it.

You'll need to buy:

1) Pump
2) Float switch
3) Switch panel for bilge pump (has manual/auto functionality, you'll leave it on auto)
4) Hoses
5) thru-hull (usually comes with a hose kit)

> can I connect to the same hose that exists for the manual bilge pump [cut existing line, install "T" connector to attach hose from new bilge pump)?

You can actually just put them inline, but it is highly not suggested. T connector may not work as you want, but might be better than an inline connection.

It's best to just put a new thru-hull somewhere where it will not be submerged during following tides/large cup/when heeling.

You can absolutely do this with the boat in the water. Sealing the thru-hull in this situation might be a bit tricky but it'll be possible, especially if you can reach the transom from your dock?

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 10:16:50

quote:
Originally posted by odonnellryanc

I run my bilge pump directly to the battery, but I still put a fuse on it.

You'll need to buy:

1) Pump
2) Float switch
3) Switch panel for bilge pump (has manual/auto functionality, you'll leave it on auto)
4) Hoses
5) thru-hull (usually comes with a hose kit)

> can I connect to the same hose that exists for the manual bilge pump [cut existing line, install "T" connector to attach hose from new bilge pump)?

You can actually just put them inline, but it is highly not suggested. T connector may not work as you want, but might be better than an inline connection.

It's best to just put a new thru-hull somewhere where it will not be submerged during following tides/large cup/when heeling.

You can absolutely do this with the boat in the water. Sealing the thru-hull in this situation might be a bit tricky but it'll be possible, especially if you can reach the transom from your dock?

That sounds easy enough. I can always grab a kayak to get to the transom to seal a thru-hull.

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

odonnellryanc
Navigator

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108 Posts

Response Posted - 05/14/2018 : 11:34:43

Yup! Figure a few more than 1 hour but should not be the worst thing.

RandyAmy
1st Mate

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USA
40 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2018 : 07:15:49

Did the thru hull replacement last Saturday. Project went fairly well. Drilling out the old fittings through the hull was probably the trickiest part. It was suggested stacking 2 hole saws to do the cut, one fitting inside the ID of the old thru hull for a guide, and the outer to cut the new hole. That all sounded good in theory but my hole saw wasn't capable of double stacking on the arbor. I ended up just letting the smaller hole saw ride inside the larger one to give me at least a small amount of stability. Once the teeth start cutting into the fiberglass it moves through fairly easily.
The grinding down the old volcano is what would be expected with grinding fiberglass, a mess, shop vac helped a lot, but still dusty. I did the galley drain as well as the 2 cockpit scupper drains. I had made 4" backer plates. I had to cut the edge distance down on the 2 plates for the scupper because they were too close to the transom.
I installed the thru hulls with 5200 and from what I have read its about 4-5 day full cure time so I will hook up plumbing hopefully next weekend.
I am glad to have this done, now for keel cable and finally get her in the water by the first of June....or so!
Everybody on this forum is extremely helpful, an awesome resource for a new C25 owner!

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2018 : 12:59:27

quote:
Originally posted by RandyAmy

Did the thru hull replacement last Saturday. Project went fairly well. Drilling out the old fittings through the hull was probably the trickiest part. It was suggested stacking 2 hole saws to do the cut, one fitting inside the ID of the old thru hull for a guide, and the outer to cut the new hole. That all sounded good in theory but my hole saw wasn't capable of double stacking on the arbor. I ended up just letting the smaller hole saw ride inside the larger one to give me at least a small amount of stability. Once the teeth start cutting into the fiberglass it moves through fairly easily.
The grinding down the old volcano is what would be expected with grinding fiberglass, a mess, shop vac helped a lot, but still dusty. I did the galley drain as well as the 2 cockpit scupper drains. I had made 4" backer plates. I had to cut the edge distance down on the 2 plates for the scupper because they were too close to the transom.
I installed the thru hulls with 5200 and from what I have read its about 4-5 day full cure time so I will hook up plumbing hopefully next weekend.
I am glad to have this done, now for keel cable and finally get her in the water by the first of June....or so!
Everybody on this forum is extremely helpful, an awesome resource for a new C25 owner!

That is good to hear! Did you have to change the angle of the hole for the new thru-hull? Mine looks (from the inside) to be relatively perpendicular to the hull, so I'm hoping that angle doesn't change too much. I'm likely going to cut the "volcano" near its base from the inside, then punch it out from the outside, versus drilling it out and see how that goes.

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

ryank020
1st Mate

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53 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2018 : 17:58:29

So I did this project this weekend with good results! Here are a few notes:

1) The old thru Hull did not come out as easy as CD said. The thru Hull was esentially threaded into the Hull, and I took a pair of vice grips to break it loose and twist it out. It slid out pretty easy after it was loose. After removing the old thru Hull, I used a coping saw to cut off the volcano to a point prettybflush with the hull. Then proceeded to grinding down about a 1/4 inch of fiberglass to allow all the pieces of the thru Hull to be put together. I did a bulk of this with a grinding wheel on a cordless drill.

2) I drilled the hole for the new thru Hull then installed the reinforcing backer board. I just made sure the holes lined up by using a 1� wood dowel to make sure the new thru Hull would fit correctly. I didn�t wait for the expoxy to totally dry before I put the thru Hull in. Just make sure no expoxy gets dried on the threads. Also, the existing hole was about 1�, so cutting a new hole just 1/8 inch bigger was slightly challenging.

Whole process was pretty easy. The tech tips helped out quite a bit. Fairly quick process, I�d say 4 hrs total, could have been much quicker if I used an angle grinder the whole time. This includes all clean up. Bottom line, hauled the boat at 1130 Saturday morning , allowed everything to dry, and was back in my slip at 1230 Sunday. Worthwhile upgrade!

1984 Cat 25 FK/TR #4687

Edited by - ryank020 on 05/20/2018 18:06:52

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