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T O P I C    R E V I E W
johete Posted - 08/12/2021 : 00:05:41
Does anyone have dimensions of A frame, length, size, drawings
Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks
4   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
GaryB Posted - 08/14/2021 : 22:48:50
Agreed, I've used the A-frame to lower and raise mine twice. Both times I raised and lowered the mast by myself in the water. Both times I had a crosswind.

One thing to keep in mind, as the mast gets closer to horizontal the mast will want to drop faster so be ready to tighten up your grip on the rope. I loop my line around the starboard winch a couple of turns so I can control the speed the mast drops and I stand on the cockpit seats so I can grab and control the mast and get it in the mast crutch at the stern. Once you get the mast started down let it come down relatively quickly but under control. The less time it's in transit the less time the wind and the boat rocking will have to move the mast out of control.

Take your time setting things up. Double and triple check everything. Once I was ready it took no more than 30 - 45 seconds (if that long) to get the mast down and in the mast crutch at the back of the boat.

Also, when you pull the bolt at the bottom of the mast and get ready to slide the mast forward, be sure you're sitting on the mast as it's going to want to flip up once the bolt is out.

As Bruce said, prep is the key and if you can get at least one person to help it's a lot safer and much easier.
Voyager Posted - 08/14/2021 : 07:45:27
Adding to the discussion, I’ve used an A-frame each time I’ve raised or lowered my mast. The advantage over a single gin-pole method is stability of the mast as you raise and lower it - the mast tends to stay aligned with the centerline of the boat. You can easily manage it with one other person. Not only is the other person handy to guide the mast at various points, but also to watch for fouled shrouds, halyards and lines. It’s very easy to kink a shroud or stay when you’re raising the mast.
As with most things like this, it’s all in the prep work.
dmpilc Posted - 08/13/2021 : 06:12:47
If I remember correctly, I bought 2 pieces of electrical conduit 10 ft long. Pipe diameter needs to be large enough to fit over the deck fitting for the shrouds, probably 1". Measure from the bow to the base of the forward lower shrouds for your length. I think it will be 9 or 9.5 ft. Make 2 pieces 3" long out of one of the cut off scrap pieces. You will drill 2 holes all the way through these pieces. The first holes will be close enough to the end to fit the pieces over the forward lower deck fittings and secure them with a long clevis pin. The second holes will be about 1" from the other end of the short pieces. These will be your pivot points for the a-frame bars so drill those holes accordingly. (look for the you tube videos by DavyJ, very instructive). to make the a-frame, I hammered the ends of the poles flat, about 4-6 inches each end, then put them in the car's hitch receiver to bend them to the proper angles. Then drill holes in the flat parts for a bolt at the top, maybe 2" from the end and 1" at the bottoms. The holes at the bottom need to be close enough that the poles can rotate vertical and not scrape the deck.
hope this helps.
GaryB Posted - 08/12/2021 : 18:51:32
I built mine using the drawings I found in the Technical Tips section on the right side of this page. Click on Catalina 25, select all tips. 3rd post from the top.

Here's the link: http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/tech/tech25/bearsad1.asp

It works well on my '89. Be sure to use electrical EMT pipe, not plain aluminum tubing

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