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Haul out - and starting the Winter Projects again.

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/14/2013 : 11:42:56

Tomorrow I haul my boat out. I made several trailer modifications some before I launched, others (like a new trailer winch) were done just this past week. Basically the winch, bow support, and bow eye were all added to help with strap/trailer launching the boat. I've also done a pretty thorough documentation of my mast raising/lowering, and strap launching upgrades (I am replacing some lumber in that, and also putting in a beefier eye-bolt as I bent the other one during launch).

I need to take some pictures of the "upgraded" swivel dolly wheels I installed earlier, because I've added some metal supports to make them more "stable." I bent the brackets during launch, but they worked, so I wanted to improve upon them. I won't know if my yankee ingenuity will make this easy or not... STAY TUNED. Again the objective is self-launch and self-retrieve (believe it or not self-launch was done). NO I am not crazy, I'll have help around if I need it. But the objective is for this to be MY work, and to avoid having to conscript others to help with this. I'll be quite happy if I can attain my goal.

Now more about this thread. Last year many of you will remember I started a thread that was basically all I was doing to my boat over the winter. This winter will be much of that again, with hopefully lots of SMALL projects instead. I'll go through the important ones first, then do my wish list as I can.

MUST DO projects are short (thank god):
* Fix the leaky scuppers
* Install the J/24 spreader reinforcement
* rebuild winches

WOULD LIKE TO projects are
* Paint deck (at least the cockpit, the whole deck would be great,but I have several repairs I've done to the cockpit, and I want to paint over all that)
* Install flush mount (ala Capri 22) windows
* Tighten bulldog latches on the lazarettes and replace seals on them
* Install a small electric bilge pump
* Replace cleats for traveler on combing,
* Upgrade traveler to 3:1 or 4:1 for heavier air days
* Install a radio amplifier to provide more "punch" to my music (yeah the radio was rated to 40 watts, but it comes up distorted at lot at 3/4 volume where it needs to be to hear it proper on deck.
* Wire up a masthead steaming light, and also deck light
* Lighten up the halyards aloft, and fix the order they come out at the bottom of the mast (spin top lift is port, and foreguy is starboard, DUH).
* Rigid vang, and ditch the main topping lift (less weight aloft)
* replace much of mast running rigging with lighter/stronger line (less weight aloft)
* Fix that darned outhaul... Right now my flattener is gone (good), but my reef is useless (no power, and doesn't hook up right), and my outhaul is 1:1... so I'd like to add a 6:1 or 8:1 outhaul, and rebuild the blocks/tackle inside the boom (as it's all a cluster)... The cleats I added last year are holding up nice! Its the only reason why I haven't done this already.
* Fix some standing rigging (the actual buckles and chainplates), as the wire was all recently done. I want to go all open buckles.
* Replace the rear bulkheads (I understand this can either be a real bear, or a non-issue... I'll let you know... Mine are still well intact, so they'd work as a template. The prior owner lacquered them, but I am not convinced they are 100% and I want to make sure, I'll just replace them.

On my WISH LIST, mostly for Christmas, are 2 new sails... I may only be able to get one. But I want a reaching symmetrical spinnaker and a #2 headsail (probably dacron, so that I can use it for just screwing around day sailing). I don't think I really need a #3 (94%) because I can count on 1 finger how many times this year I could have used it. I would still like one but won't bother until next year.

I'll keep this thread updated with pictures, info as I do this stuff. To keep the thread list tidy.

C&C 32 Smith Mountain Lake Virginia

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2013 : 11:46:29

Keen observers will note I have my boat for sale. I don't expect to sell it quickly, but I honestly don't care. This has been a terrific boat, and I'll continue to upgrade, and outfit the boat... I'll likely keep the price the same as I do so.

I am aiming towards racing more OD with our most competitive boat, or I may just find the fastest trailerable boat I can get that is monohull. Stay tuned.

Here is the bow roller/support I installed in the spring:

and the dolly wheels I installed so that I could strap launch

and also this boweye was installed:

Edited by - shnool on 10/14/2013 11:49:33

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2013 : 18:35:41

This is what I changed on the dolly wheels. I used angle iron to bolt to the frame, then ran the U-bolts through it and the existing channel. It's made the whole thing less likely to twist.

and here

If this works, I'll have it all done and welded in place proper like.
New Winch and strap:

All the upgrades at once:

Edited by - shnool on 10/14/2013 18:38:23

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2013 : 13:46:02

Well that didn't go as planned, but everything worked out anyway...
Look my club is nearly empty, only my dock has any boats on it now.

This was the scene before I really got to work.

Remove battens, air out sail before rolling it for storage:

Poof mast down

Mast secured.

Dolly wheels bent right away... so I had to rehitch after this:

Bow eye, and bow roller/hull support actually allowed the winch to PULL the boat UP and into the bow yoke... right into place, I was VERY happy... took about 10 minutes to haul the boat. Nope very few ramps are THIS steep, but this will work for here.

Boat is now home and IN her spot, still enough room in the garage to park the truck

Edited by - shnool on 10/15/2013 13:52:56

usa 63
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2013 : 17:52:51

Looks really good. Could you post more pictures of the roller set up and how it worked. Also did you install the bow eye? That's something I want to do but not sure if there is a "right spot" or not .
Thanks

Nick

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2013 : 03:42:12

I installed my bow-eye myself. Bought the kit on Catalina Direct. I lined it up while the boat was on the trailer, to keep the winch-strap straight into the bow.
Here is the kit:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=304
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1110
The bow support is here:
http://www.shnool.com/images/capri25/04302013/IMG_20130430_090413_936.jpg
Its a winch post from trailerpartsdepot, with a keel roller:
Here's the winch stand:
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=6084.006&eq=&Tp=
Here's the roller:
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=32003G&eq=&Tp=
Here are the bolts used to hold the winch stand:
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=86330&eq=&Tp=

If you look at the bow of the capri 25 (and this might not work with other boats)... the bow has a long elliptical taper. You lose almost 2 feet of waterline from the winch height to the actual waterline. Which means that it's a very slow increase in slope... so if you can align the boat on the trailer, with the keel roller just above water... you can winch the boat UP onto the bow roller, which puts the bow eye in line with the winch... this is a HUGE help, as your trailer is likely at an extreme angle below water, and the bow of the boat is actually pretty light (couple hundred pounds, and of course the keel is under water, so lighter).

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2013 : 03:44:58

I either need a long hitch extension (say 4-6 feet)... or to get someone to weld a 3x4" box to the trailer to mount the dolly wheels (I think the wheels are powerful enough, just gotta keep them from twisting).

Edited by - on

usa 63
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2013 : 08:07:17

Wow john you make it look easy, retrieving my boat is always a chore and normally very exciting. I'm going to add the bow eye as I'm sure it will help. Any idea how thick the bow is? I'd also like to install it low enough that it could be used as an attachment point for a bob stay if I chose to add one down the road. Thoughts?

Thanks

Nick

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2013 : 12:49:03

I got nothing on a bob-stay (you adding a wood sprit? or just a retractable spin sprit?), but the thickness of the hull is pretty impressive. I know the bulkhead was almost 1.75" thick (but I think it was 2 layers sandwiched).. The bow was slightly lighter, but not much... about an inch. The "star-board" resin block was long (probably 6 inches or so), and cut into a trapazoid to fit into the bow on the inside. The bolts ran ALL the way through the hull, then into the star-board, and into the cabin... I did mine so it was JUST above the layer for the berth to make it easier to install. Any lower than that, and you are getting precariously close to the waterline (at least for me).

I put significant force on the bow when I PULLED the boat up onto the bow/keel roller, enough to remove some paint on the bow from the rolling process (couple small nicks)! The winch is a #1600 variety, but wasn't "maxed." Probably several hundred pounds of force though.

Edited by - on

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2013 : 12:56:47

Schnool: Why not mount the wheels directly to the frame? For more stability you can move them back slightly.

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2013 : 17:10:25

I would have but that put the wheels to low, and they would drag if I left them there, causing problems at each bump.

Edited by - on

usa 63
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2013 : 17:22:38

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking retractable aluminum sprit with the bob stay if a code zero ever joins the picture. We just moved and our new club allows symmetrical and asymmetrical spinnakers so in PHRF racing we could have a asymmetrical spinnakers making the boat easier to sail.

Edited by - on

usa 63
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Response Posted - 10/20/2013 : 14:03:12

Can you give us a little info on the j24 spreader kit? I've seen the kit just not sure how they can be used on our boats. I have very loose spreaders and have been looking for something to do about them for years.

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 10/20/2013 : 19:44:46

The Wayzata folks seem to be the ones recommending them... I have no idea other than there seems to be a through bolt/pipe that you'd have to drill through the mast to allow... that provides the support.
http://www.apsltd.com/p-1252-j24-thru-bar-kit-wbar-plate.aspx
I honestly don't know how it'll work (yet)... but they had a couple dismastings and I'll be darned if I'm gonna add to those numbers (if it's within my means)...

Looks like you pop out the old spreader legs, cut a hole in the mast, run this bar through it, slide the spreader legs back on it, rivet it all in place.
Another link:
http://www.apsltd.com/c-2478-j24-spreader-thru-bar-upgrade-kit.aspx

Edited by - shnool on 12/05/2013 13:08:16

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 12/05/2013 : 13:00:43

Anyone know what size the original brass scuppers are? they look bigger than 1" OD... maybe 1.5" OD?
I am thinking of installing THESE instead(tinyurl to defender part):
http://tinyurl.com/ln97zbr

I am thinking of cutting the whole thing to size, it'll be easier if I don't have to reside the hole in the transom to do so. The reasoning about using these, is they have the built in flap for 1 way water flow. When you boil downwind in the Capri, the scuppers flood, seems upgrading to something that prevents that makes sense. thoughts?

Edited by - shnool on 12/05/2013 13:03:21

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 12/06/2013 : 17:33:24

This is NOT what I was expecting... I expected the scuppers to have broken their seal at the inside flush bead, but look at this!
Starboard scupper

Port Scupper

Edited by - shnool on 12/06/2013 17:34:58

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2014 : 06:19:11

Ok, I got a question for the brainshare here. I removed the brass scuppers, and found a nearly 100% intact board laminated in the stern... there are tiny holes (probably air spots) less than the size of a pea in the "tunnel."

My question is... can I just coat the whole tunnel with Interlux Watertite Epoxy, fair, and be done, or do I need to add fibers to strengthen? The scuppers I bought are at least .5" bigger than the hole, and I can grind it all out (and I have to a point), but there isn't enough room in the pit to put the nut on the pipe. I think these scuppers are designed to have a hose connected to them that works for 90 degree type scuppers.

My thoughts were, to glass/epoxy up the holes, and put JUST the flappers from the new seadog scupper on. This should keep water from rolling in while surfing downwind.

Here's what the tunnel looks like brass out.

Edited by - shnool on 01/05/2014 06:20:40

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2014 : 09:32:48

I think the best solution is just where you are at today: use un-thiickened epoxy to saturate the core, filling in then with thickened to build up as needed. Radius the entrance and exit bysanding when fully set and voila! If you can't fit the flapper valve, there are stainless alternatives available as well. Better yet, use ketchup bottle lids mounted on a hinge!!!

http://flyosity.com/design/ketchup-bottles-the-physicality-of-design.php <link is about the ketchup lid only.>

Edited by - on

jmadd
1st Mate

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USA
84 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2014 : 10:27:12

Wow. That is considerably different from what I had. So you have a board laminated in on each side that fills in between the transom and the rear of the cockpit? I have about a 4" void in between, bridged by the brass scuppers. There was obviously something there before that rotted out, but I didn't think it was that substantial.

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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2014 : 19:08:14

It's probably about 2" deep.
Yep, I'll use an epoxy, with a thickener, that way I can shape it some... the flappers fit, but I LOVE those Heinz 57 lids.. freaking cool find!

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2014 : 13:24:10

Lifting boat using boat stands...

Is it possible to support the boat for a couple of days, solely by boat stands so the keel can dangle free? The bottom of my keel looks to need a decent amount of work. I could not figure out a way to get the boat off the keel rest last year, and a ran out of time.

I thought maybe an investment of $400ish could get me some stands I could use later for other stuff. Yeah I know... lots of $$

I'll entertain anyone else's thoughts.

I've even considered dangling lifting straps from my pole barn roof trusses, but I thought #3500 might be too much weight.

Anyone got an easier way for me to get to the bottom of the keel?

Edited by - on

jmadd
1st Mate

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USA
84 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2014 : 14:08:48

Being the cheap guy I am I'd probably just try to use some jacking mechanism to raise it up enough to raise the trailer stands. I guess it would depend on how much clearance you need under and around the bottom of the keel. I would not recommend leaving it on just 4 stands for all winter. When I had my Capri on the trailer for several months one summer I could see slight indentations where it was resting too heavily on the stands on one side. Fortunately it turned out to be a temporary deformation.

Edited by - on

usa 63
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2014 : 15:21:29

We have lifted the boat up had had the keel hanging for a month so I don't think you would have any problems. We put the pads either where they were on the trailer or very close to the bow and stern. Like where the bow still has a sharp v and almost by the rudder post. I think your right on not lifting the boat with the barn but you could possibly take 500-1000 pounds off the pads by lifting some of the weight by the keelboats just make sure you don't lift too much weight and I would spread the load to as many rafters as possible.

I am also doing some winter projects and wanted to know if you wanted me to post them here or make my own topic? I look forward to seeing what all you do this year and if possible could you take a close up for your spreaders and how they attach?

Thanks

Nick

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2014 : 17:38:51

Nick, feel free have at it (here or elsewhere)! The more the merrier! I am quite lazy this winter, I can't bring myself to fight the 4 degrees to heat up the pole barn to get started, on my list of projects.

I think I'm going to smooth the surface (300 grit) of the bottom and put another coat of VC17 on for next season... among everything else I wanna do.

If you wanna send me more details as well, shoot me an email maybe we can get some into the Mainsheet. I wanna get Doug's modifications in for his attempt at the Transpac. But I do want to get as many projects packed into our Capri 25 tech pull out as we can going forward, I'd prefer they not all be my own.

Edited by - on

usa 63
1st Mate

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USA
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Response Posted - 01/09/2014 : 18:20:44

So here is the list of projects for USA 63 over the winter. We bought the boat in 2009 and have been upgrading her ever since. We turned the 1980 blue hulled day sailor into a hardcore racer that gives the J and Wavelength 24's fits. We painted her white, added racing rigging, new sails and a performance bottom to her and won a got bunch of races. Its been drying out and we have been fixing some of the structural problems the boats face. We are replacing all of the bulkheads and the floor with composite materials so that the boat will last for years to come. This will make us non compliant for one design races but we have only races one other Capri 25 in four years and hopefully one day it will be allowed.

This winter we are going to

Pull off all of the deck hardware
Fit leaky scuppers
Paint the smooth parts of the deck with Perfection
Paint the non skid with Kiwi Grip
Replace all exterior wood trim with Starboard
Finish Floor rebuild and install new bulkheads
Sand bottom and repaint with VC-17

Would love to hear everyone's thoughts's, ideas, sugestions and will post pictures as soon as I can figure out how.

Thanks

Nick

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2014 : 05:05:03

Sounds about on the mark for the same problems I've been seeing with mine (and my boat has sat in a back yard, under proper tarps for literally 10+ years).

The Deck painting I'd LOVE to see. It's on my list!

Edited by - on

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