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Haul out - and starting the Winter Projects again.

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usa 63
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USA
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Response Posted - 01/10/2014 : 09:53:14

I will make sure to take pictures of the entire process. With the rear bulkheads and floor I used 3/8" divicell that sells for about $60 for a 3x4' sheet. Yes it is slightly more than marine ply but I know that no matter what it will be the last time I have to replace them. I am going to go with 3/8" Coosa bluewater 26 for the chainplate bulkhead. It's about $300 for a 4x8' that will more than take care of the bulheads and leave me with some left over. I am weighing the boat through the process and will still be at the posted weight which seems to be some where between 2950 and 3300 pounds. Any thoughts on that would be great.

Right now I am pulling off all of the deck hardware, overdrilling the holes, and filling them with West Systems 610. My thought there is anything that I want to put back after the paint job can be re drilled from inside and I won't have to to worry about water coming in. I was taking off the forward Jib tracks last week and I'm thinking about leaving them off the boat. We have never used anything but a 155% or the 94%. I have seen a few pictures on the web of boats that have a jib track on top of the doghouse for the blade. Does anyone know how well this works? What are your thoughts on taking the track off? Im also debating leaving the track that runs from the stern to about halfway between the stantions off and filling the holes because we stoped using it after a car left go and traped a crew memeber between a spin sheet and the pullpit. Now all attachment points are over drilled, filled, redrilled and beded with a G10 or starboard backing plate. This would save about 150 holes in the deck and who knows how many in sailing shorts or legs. I know I'm way outside of class rules at this point but do you guys think?

Thanks

Nick

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2014 : 14:01:18

I'm using the rail tracks for twings/tweakers... it's not perfect but usable. But you're right that's a pretty large amount of screws through the hull.
AS for the bulkheads... I'm sticking with ply to stay within OD. Maybe our Nationals will become a bigger magnet, and I'll have more Nationals to visit!

Finally putting short JIB tracks on the doghouse makes sense to me. I've not personally done it, but it was a big deal on the Capri 22. I just ordered a 135 for heavier air, as I'm always short handed in our races, and sometimes there isn't enough rail meat for the 155, but a 94 would feel like we threw out a drogue.

Edited by - shnool on 01/10/2014 14:01:53

usa 63
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Response Posted - 01/10/2014 : 16:08:44

We normally race with 4-5 so for us it's seems like we're either looking for power or trying to get rid of it. We were thinking about using the track for that but like you said the angle isn't quite right and I'm still scared after pinning a crew to the pulpit. Also the nice thing is if we ever want them a tube of 4200 and a six pack and they're back on. I always thought of the capri as a bout without much hardware but now that I've started to take things off I'm seeing the boat more as Swiss cheese. I think I have over 300 holes through the boat and we don't have anything too fancy. I'm also thinking about cutting off the wedge that holds the clam cleat for the jib sheets off so that a cam cleat can be installed. I have had a few times with smaller trimmers where they couldn't release the job after it loaded up but haven't had that problem with cams. We replaced the clams for the halyards a few years ago for this reason because you had to retention the line to get it out of the cleat in high winds where as now all it takes is flipping a lever forward.

Thanks

Nick

Edited by - usa 63 on 01/10/2014 16:14:15

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2014 : 19:19:27

Ok, put a coat of epoxy on the scuppers... had to layer on some fiberglass to make it stick.

Stupid me left water in the bilge for the winter... Froze and thawed a couple times. No damage, but it was a rookie move. Thawed out the boat ran the heater for about 6 hours, in the cabin and outside the boat. Vacuumed out all the water in the bilge. Dry now... and hopefully with the scuppers fixed won't ever collect water again.

Edited by - on

usa 63
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42 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2014 : 20:50:10

Sounds like your making progress. We removed all of the deck hardware last weekend and filled all the holes after drilling them out slightly larger than they were removing the silicon and checking for rot. It seems like enough though most of the bolt s leaked the silicon kept the core dry and I only found one rotten spot on the center mast hinge screw. It's less than an inch and has been bored out to good wood and I will fill it with west system and 403 when it's good and dry. I will hit the scuppers with some thickened epoxy the next time I have some ready to go as the scupper its self seems intact. We forgot to get all of the water out of the boat and had to thaw it out as well. I'm hoping that by filling the deck holes and scuppers we will be dry going forward. Does anyone have leaky rear hatches and if so how did you fix it? I think mine must be leaking due to the amount of water that comes in after each rain.

Thanks

Nick

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2014 : 04:41:07

Nick if you are talking about the lazarettes... then yeah I could see them being a problem. I may replace the gaskets on mine... Catalina Direct has the gasket material.
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/50/hatch-gasket-black-rubber.cfm

While this isn't a perfect match I've looked at the groove in the hatch, and this looks like it'll work. Another HUGE thing you can do is to put seadog anti-rattle latches on, which put pressure down on the lid. Also this fixes a classic "J24 sinking" problem. Where the boat broaches, and the latches give way on the lazarette instant flood the cabin. Make no mistake this is also a problem with the Capri 25, and early model Capri 22s.

Edited by - shnool on 01/15/2014 04:46:19

jmadd
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Response Posted - 01/15/2014 : 11:32:00

100% of the water coming into my lazarettes during a rain was coming from the scuppers.

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2014 : 13:53:15

John I am also quite sure that is where mine was... but I do also believe that it's important to secure the lazarette latches down while underway. Even if you just throw a padlock on the latches that came with the boat, to keep the lids in place. The gaskets in mine seem intact, so it was a pretty low priority...

My next week purchases are already lined up from Defender.
Looking to install the VHF antenna on the top of the mast.
also install a windex light (to light with running lights)
and an anchor light
My boat does not have a steaming light, but that'll have to be another project for another day.

Meanwhile I am fixing scuppers
Port required fiberglass
Starboard looks better

THIS WEEK - I just ordered the pieces for the 8:1 outhaul and also the replacement sheaves for the end casting of the boom. I have to get this boom ironed out...
The cable for the VHF (and power for the lights) for next week are going in place of the topping lift halyard... so I'll need at the very least a boom kicker to make all this work.

Edited by - shnool on 01/15/2014 14:01:47

shnool
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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/23/2014 : 08:43:39

I ordered an internal 8:1 outhaul for the boom, it arrived yesterday. Apparently to make it work, I have to move the existing through-boom pin, 6-9 inches farther back.
Here's what it should look like, except that pin isn't near the goose, it should be 25 inches from the aft end of the boom. The control line then runs to internal sheaves near the gooseneck end, an THEN back to a clam-cleat on the side:

They show it this way, except that isn't quite right either. But I get how it works, so I'll do my best to illustrate via pictures.

This picture shows the pin in it's original space.

The original 2:1 configuration as it came out of the boom.

I'll post pictures when I go to rebuild the boom. Catalina direct did a nice job custom designing the 8:1 controls though. Looks like good line too.

Edited by - shnool on 01/23/2014 19:32:29

shnool
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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/23/2014 : 19:36:55

Here's the configuration, showing the pin that has to hold the end of one cable, and the lower end of the blocks.

The BIG question you should ask is HOW do you get it in the boom, with the pin through it... how about a narrow board, with a pin on the end to hook it all too? Line it up with the hole, and drop the pin through, and remove the board. DONE.

Nice 8:1 outhaul now, and the sheaves at the end of the boom are replaced as well. Everything back together now, and working great.

Edited by - shnool on 01/23/2014 19:39:46

britinusa
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Response Posted - 01/23/2014 : 19:41:03

You should be able to put some serious force on that outhaul! Are you worried about that?

Paul

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usa 63
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42 Posts

Response Posted - 01/23/2014 : 20:30:12

My out haul is exactly like the first picture made out 12 strand and dingy control line. By making everything out of line we were able to splice everything in place getting the lengths just right. We used a spin lock flip flop cleat and I can honestly say it's the easiest to use out haul I've ever used and the only thing I've ever been tempted to do was add a piece of shock cord to pull the tackle towards the back of the boom. In regards to the force of the purchase in my experience as long as you put limits on the purchase it can be very beneficial. My back stay is 32/1 which has had more than one passer by telling me that I was going to have a Capri 24. When setting up the purchase we used a loos gauge on the forestay and max forward rake and made sure the tension on the wire wasn't too high. We also tested a few other things and found that the blocks would bottom out alright about the same tension as the original set up. The benefit of this is the fact that we can easily adjust the forestay tension regardless of the conditions.

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shnool
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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/24/2014 : 04:48:03

I've not even thought about the power in the backstay yet. Conditions I sail in rarely exceed 20 knots. I'm stock 4:1 on the backstay. But what a lot of people miss, is even with higher purchase, you lose maximum distance, so it makes sense to me to add more purchase to make the adjustments easier, as long as you know the extents, it'd be perfect.

Catalina directly purpose-designed this 8:1 outhaul with the assumption that the "pin" would be 25 inches from the aft end of the boom. The adjustment range looks correct (I have my boom marked 6 inches from the end in 1" increments), I can adjust from "0" to "6" with no problem... I've never felt the need to use "6," it's usually adjusted from 3-0. The whole device is quite smooth.

I am almost done with the scuppers, I have to sand them 1 more time, then paint them (cause I hate the blue)... then I'll take pictures before the flaps go on.

Next up? Routing the VHF antenna to the masthead (and likely a windvane light, and anchor light).

it'll probably be a couple weeks before I can order the spreader braces.

Edited by - shnool on 01/24/2014 04:50:42

shnool
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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2014 : 20:39:34

I just heard back about my 3.5hp outboard... carb needed a rebuild (again), and a new plug.

The place that did the work basically said that if I could get the premix stuff, this wouldn't happen. This is the 3rd motor I've had to have a rebuild. I've used mid grade fuel and have been pretty particular about A) running the fuel out and B) using up the fuel quickly (2-4 weeks after mixed).

This is what he was recommending, saying it has a decent shelf life: http://tinyurl.com/pr7u22f

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4275 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2014 : 20:45:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by shnool
 I just heard back about my 3.5hp outboard... carb needed a rebuild (again), and a new plug.

The place that did the work basically said that if I could get the premix stuff, this wouldn't happen. This is the 3rd motor I've had to have a rebuild. I've used mid grade fuel and have been pretty particular about A) running the fuel out and B) using up the fuel quickly (2-4 weeks after mixed).

This is what he was recommending, saying it has a decent shelf life: http://tinyurl.com/pr7u22f
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sounds like a good idea and only $31.52/gallon!

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usa 63
1st Mate

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Response Posted - 01/26/2014 : 07:36:41

I have had good luck using jet fuel with sea foam and stabil.
I agree though at $32 a gallon it's way cheaper than having anyone even look at it if it solves your problems.

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shnool
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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2014 : 12:25:07

Paul you asked if I was worried about the 8:1 adjustment power... answer is no... the objective is to be able to adjust the outhaul under load, and it has "max" and "min" set points to keep from over adjusting.

Jet fuel? I was under the impression that the problem is with ethanol lacquering the bowl while sitting. Can that be mitigated with higher octane?

Oh and I have a 1 liter fuel tank in the motor. I usually only carry about 1 gallon extra of fuel on board.

Edited by - shnool on 01/26/2014 12:25:53

GrapeTX
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Response Posted - 01/28/2014 : 09:08:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by shnool
 

Next up? Routing the VHF antenna to the masthead (and likely a windvane light, and anchor light).

it'll probably be a couple weeks before I can order the spreader braces.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I am adding an LED light for the windex. I had been looking online for an LED light that would work and found one at an auto parts store for $15. Online there are some for $3 to $10 that would work as well. It is about 1" diameter and has a flat bottom that I will use life caulk to adhere it.

Edited by - GrapeTX on 01/28/2014 09:09:29

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 01/28/2014 : 12:30:22

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by shnool
 Jet fuel? I was under the impression that the problem is with ethanol lacquering the bowl while sitting. Can that be mitigated with higher octane?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Jet fuel does not have an octane rating. It's a high grade of kerosene. Not sure how you would burn that in an outboard motor.

If you are referring to 100LL avgas that is a different story. It's 100 octane and probably does not have ethanol in it. At approx. $6/gallon it might not be a bad alternative to the junk you get at the marina or gas station.

Edited by - GaryB on 01/28/2014 12:34:53

jmadd
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Response Posted - 01/28/2014 : 12:47:37

Yeah, 100LL is what people around here are using to get ethanol-free. A local air park advertises it at 4.76/gallon. I haven't been out there to check that out but its on my list for this spring.

Edited by - on

GaryB
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Response Posted - 01/28/2014 : 13:10:03

I know I'm going to regret what I'm about to say, but I have never had any problems with carbs having to be rebuilt and getting junk in my fuel tank.

It seems from reading on this site over the years that there might be certain areas of the country (NW and SE) that experience this phenomena more than others. Not sure if it's the fuel, the atmosphere, or something else that causes it.

Now that I've said that I'm sure I'll have all of the above the next time I make it down to the boat!

Edited by - GaryB on 01/28/2014 13:11:18

usa 63
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Response Posted - 01/28/2014 : 14:12:23

Yes I was referring to 100LL. We have used it and havnt had any problems. We then add sta bil and oil if it's a two stoke. Never had a problem after going to that. Price is high but way cheaper than taking it anywhere. I once sailed with a guy who would replace his 9.9 every 3-5 years no matter what. He said it was one of his lowest expenses in the long run and he always knew it would run when needed.

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shnool
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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/28/2014 : 17:39:59

Well, I've been batting a thousand, I've not gotten a single motor through a whole season.

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abraxis
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Response Posted - 02/06/2014 : 11:31:08

Regarding raising boat off of keel. I had adjustable boat stands welded in place and can raise ABRAXIS up to 1' if need be.
The main reason for adding stands was to make bottom painting easier. Also had two movable stands made up that fit onto trailer
frame wherever I want them.

Edited by - on

shnool
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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2014 : 13:32:19

Yeah I should have spent the money last year to implement adjustable stands. I mean technically mine adjust... but not the way I'd like (I'd like them adjustable like jack stands)... Also I'd love to know who the genius was who thought 4 stands and a keel support were enough to work on the boat on the trailer! 6 please? Then I could drop 1 or even 2 at a time and then swap and do 2 others. I think I'll be having a local welder make that correction on my trailer in the near future.

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