2.0 COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST
2.1 PRE-LAUNCH CHECK:
1. Check all through hull fittings.
2. Hull top sides clean, waxed.
3. Teak cleaned and oiled.
4. Interior teak oiled.
5. Cushions, carpeting, curtains -- clean and in place.
6. Hatch lids present and fit OK.
7. Lifelines and pulpits rigged and OK.
8. Spreaders taped and drilled at base end; upper shroud wired to
top end and taped.
9: Standing rigging pinned to mast.
10. Rigging lengths verified with check list in kit.
11. Mast and boom inspected: cotter pins, sheaves. tangs. spreaders
12. Mast lights checked before mast stepped.
13. Check overhead for electrical wires which may interfere with the
space required to raise the mast to its full upright position.
If there are wires of any kind, anywhere near the boat. do not
raise the mast. Move boat to another location, away from any wires.
Contact with wires can be fatal.
14. Masthead sheaves lubricated and rotate freely.
2.2 IN WATER CHECK:
1. Electrical equipment operational:
running cabin bow anchor spreaders
2. Shore power outlet OK.
3. Check battery switch #1___ DK. #2 OK.
4. Check battery fluid level.
5. Check battery terminals for tightness.
6. Check battery tie down straps.
1. No leaks at through hull fittings.
2. Check and fill water tank.
3. Test all pumps for leaks.
4. Check for leaks at sink drain. sink drain OK.
5. Put water in icebox and check for proper drainage.
6. Check bilge pump operation, handle present.
7. Check head by flushing and pumping.
8. Check holding tank, vent and fittings.
9. Check head and pump handle for leaks.
10. Main hatch no leaks, slides freely: hatch boards fit OK.
11. Cabin windows hose tested for leaks.
12. Anchor locker drains OK, no leaks.
13. Stove operates OK; check tank, fuel line, burner and oven.
2.2.3 RIGGING AND HARDWARE
1. Mast stepped.
2. Pin, tape and tune standing rigging.
3. Backstay adjuster. whisker pole, spinnaker gear, boom vang,
4. Blocks, cars, cleats rigged, OK.
5. Check all winches. winch handles present.
2.2.4 ENGINE, INBOARD DIESEL. OPTION
1. No leaks: Shaft, rudder, stuffing box, or shaft log.
2. Shaft. dimpled for set bolts at coupling: bolts wired and
3. With fuel tanks full, no leaks at fill pipes, overflow
vent, or any fuel line connections.
4. With coupling disconnected, engine and shaft alignment
OK, recheck alignment after rigging tuned.
5. Transmission oil level OX.
6. Crank case oil level OK.
7. Fuel valves open. bleed and prime lines if diesel engine.
8. Check that shaft is coupled and aligned to .003 maximum
9. Engine wire OK. connections tight.
10. Throttle control cable travel and brackets OK.
11. Clutch control cable travel and brackets OK.
12. Start engine.
13. Exhaust water flow OK.
14. No leaks in fuel lines at fittings, fuel filter, fuel pump.
15. No engine or oil leaks.
16. Idling speed set R.P.M.'s.
17. Check shutoff cable for diesel engine.
18. Check forward and reverse shifting.
19. Check engine instruments for operation, tachometer for
20. Run in gear for ten (10) minutes.
21. Recheck packing gland after engine stops.
22. Bilge blower and vent system OK.
23. Exhaust system, check for leaks, insulation in place.
2.3 SAILING CHECK LIST
1. Tiller moves freely. 45 degrees minimum at each side of centerline.
2. Sails and halyards, OK.
3. Boat performance under power and sail. OK.
2.3.1 FINAL CHECK
1. All accessory equipment operates OK.
2. All boat, engine and accessory literature and/or manuals
Warranty cards completed and mailed, owner registration
card attached, owner informed of warranty responsibilities.
3.0 MAINTENANCE GUIDE
3.1 PRE-USE MAINTENANCE:
1. Inspect turnbuckles -- adjust, if necessary.
2. Inspect clevis pins and cotter pins.
3. Visually inspect spreader tips and other areas where sails may
chafe during sailing; replace tape as necessary.
4. Halyards free and not tangled.
5. Inspect mast hardware attachment bolts; tighten as required.
HULL AND DECK INSPECTION
I. Tiller moves freely, gudgeons and pintles tight.
2. Bilges and compartments are dry.
3. Through hull valves, hoses and clamps. OK.
4. Check running lights.
1. Check engine oil and fuel levels.
2. Packing gland OK, cooling water intake valve opens and closes OK
3. Throttle shift OK.
4. Blower system.
5. Check bilge areas for fuel before starting engine.
3.2 MONTHLY MAINTENANCE
1. Inspect chain plates; fastenings and bolts: tighten as necessary.
2. Inspect blocks, shackles and cotter pins.
3. Check rigging tune. rigging wire condition.
4. Check turnbuckles and locking pins.
HULL AND DECK
1. Check cockpit drains, clear debris.
2. Inspect hull valves. open and close freely.
3. winches turn freely, lubricate as per manufacturer's recommendations.
4. Clean and oil exterior teak as necessary.
5. Clean and wax gel coat surfaces as necessary.
1. Check oil and fluid levels.
2. Battery: Check fluid levels and tie downs.
3. Tighten all bolts and nuts to proper torque.
4. Check fuel tank fittings. and hose clamps.
5. Disassemble and inspect cooling system anti-siphon.
6. Check bolts.
7. Check filters.
3.3 SEASONAL MAINTENANCE:
1. Mast head pins and sheaves turn freely.
2. Halyards and micropress fittings are in good condition and are
3. Spreader tips and bases: mast fittings.
4. All shroud terminations and swedged fittings.
5. Gooseneck assembly and boom assembly.
6. Mast, boom and spreaders cleaned and waxed.
7. Lifelines and stanchions all OK; all pins and fittings are secure,
cotter rings taped. Turnbuckles, pelican hooks and connector loops
Ox: screw fittings checked for thread wear.
HULL DECK AND CABIN
1: All chainplates and through bolts tight.
2. Disassemble winches and lubricate bearings and pawls.
3. Inspect and coat electrical system connections, battery tie downs
and terminal connectors to prevent corrosion.
4. Grain and flush fresh water system.
5. Check head and anti-siphon valve in toilet.
6. Hatch gaskets and hold down fasteners.
7. Bottom, keel and rudder condition of antifouling paint.
8. Lifelines, stanchions and pelican hooks.
1. Check shaft alignment. repack stuffing box if necessary.
2. Clean motor thoroughly.
3. Inspect fuel system.
4. Tune engine as per manufacturer's recommendations.
5. Exhaust system, check for leaks, or deterioration, insulation in
3.4 FIBERGLASS MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR:
One of the major benefit. of a fiberglass boat is the elimination of maintenance
chores required by other materials. You have only three relatively easy
maintenance rules to follow to keep your boat looking like new:
1. Each year, clean, buff and wax the exterior of the boat.
2. Touch up and patch scratches, scars and small breaks.
3. Repair any major breaks as soon as possible to avoid additional
damage to the hull or decks.
Most fiberglass boats are manufactured of two types of material, permanently
bonded together by a chemical reaction. The outside surface is formed
by a colored gel coat. This is a special resin material containing concentrated
color. It provides a smooth, finished surface.
The second "layer" is made up of polyester resin reinforced with laminations
of fiberglass mat, cloth or woven roving. Both the gel coat and polyester
resin are "cured" by a chemical catalyst which causes them to form a hard,
strong mass that is highly resistant to impact and damage.
After sailing, a good hosing down with fresh water and a mild detergent
will keep your boat sparkling fresh and clean. The non-skid surfaces may
need to he scrubbed with detergent. Smooth glass areas may be polished
with liquid war or any good fiberglass wax to add extra lustre. In the
case of older boats. where some fading of the gel coat has occurred, the
surface should be buffed with polishing compound and then wax finished.
When buffing the boat to restore its finish, care should be taken not to
cut through the gel coat surface. This is especially true on corners and
edges of the hull. A power buffer may be used. or the work may be done
by hand. using a lightly abrasive rubbing compound, such as Mirro Glaze
No. 1 for power buffers. or Dupont No. 7 for hand buffing. Any high quality
paste wax may be used after buffing.
3.4.2 CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR RUDDER:
Your boat has been equipped with a composite urethane rudder.
The rudder is composed of a rigid. closed-cell urethane core with
a fiberglass coating. Water, diesel. solvents or marine borers
will not damage your rudder blade even if the glass coating has
Closed-cell plastics can be damaged by heat. To eliminate the
risk of damage, rudders should be sheltered from the sun with a
white wrapping when the boat is out of the water. Composite rudders
should never be painted black.
Only white bags should he used for storage. and only white gel
coat should be used on rudders without anti-fouling paint.
When you bottom paint your rudder for the first time, particular
attention should be paid to the manufacturer's instructions for
preparing the surface. Solvent washing is not enough. The rudder
must be sanded to remove the coating of mold release.
You should make periodic inspections of your rudder and look for
possible damage from grounding.
Cosmetic surface repairs may be performed by cleaning, drying and
roughing up the damaged area and applying bondo or any similar
filler with a putty knife. Should a small blister appear, it may
be filled with resin or cut away and repaired. Once the patch
has dried, it may be sanded smooth and painted directly with bottom
paint or any coating you desire. Gel coat is not needed.
3.5 BOTTOM PAINT PREPARATION:
All Catalina 25's built after February 1. 1988, have a blister resistant
gel coat. Special precautions must be used when preparing this bottom
for painting. Do not sand or reduce gel coat film thickness. Use "no
sand" type primer to prepare the bottom for painting. Improper bottom
preparation will void your Catalina Yachts Gel Coat Five Year Limited Warranty.
Anti-fouling paint should be applied to the bottom of your Catalina 25
if it is to be moored in either fresh or salt water for any length of time.
There are many brands available. Anti-fouling paint prevents the growth
of algae, barnacles. and other fouling organisms on underwater surfaces.
3.6 TEAK MAINTENANCE:
Wood trim and parts -- most exterior wood is teak and can be kept looking
good by occasional oiling with teak oil.
Should the teak become weathered, cleaning and bleaching with a commercially
available teak cleaner and bleach will restore the color of the wood.
Then oil the wood with a good grade teak oil to restore the golden color
of the teak. Do not use wire or hard bristle brushes on the wood, as this
will remove the softer wood between the annual rings and leave a rough
Before applying oil or varnish, test it in an inconspicuous area to ensure
that no discoloration will occur.
IMPORTANT: Always be sure to have adequate ventilation when working
with any varnishes, cleaners. oils or paints.
3.7 SPAR AND RIGGING MAINTENANCE:
Your boat is equipped with stainless steel standing rigging. dacron running
rigging, to give you years of trouble-free service. However, due to normal
wear and tear, it is recommended that a periodic inspection be made on
all fittings and wires. Turnbuckles should never be neglected and should
be unscrewed from time to time in order that they do not seize. Every
three months should be about right for the average sailor. A slightly
bent turnbuckle shaft or broken wire in your shrouds should be replaced
Under most conditions, 1 X 19 standing rigging has a safe "working" life
span of approximately five years: seven years under ideal conditions.
Factors which reduce the life of the wire are environmental factors such
as high humidity (Florida, the Caribbean. and Gulf States): high salinity
(Great Lakes. Gulf States. or mooring near a sea wall with constant salt
spray): extremes in temperature; and industrial pollution (pulp mills,
generating plants, acid rain and smog). High loading of the rigging as
required in most racing boats also induces stress in the rigging system.
Many of us have to deal with at least one of these conditions and should
consider replacing standing rigging at the five year limit.
Unlike running rigging wire rope. which gives us clear signs that it is
deteriorating by broken strands and "meat hooks", standing rigging may
give no sign that failure is imminent. The usual point of failure of stay
or shroud is approximately 1/4· inside the bottom swedged threaded stud
fitting which threads into the turnbuckle barrel.
Although the stud is compressed around the wire during the swedging process,
salt water and pollutants work down into the tine cavities between the
wire strands and the inevitable corrosive process starts in the crevice
the first time the rigging becomes wet with salt water.
A common method of Visually monitoring swedge fitting conditions employed
by distance racers and cruisers is to dab a small ring of enamel paint
around the joint between the wire and the swedge fitting. This will help
provide a means to see if the wire is pulling out of the fitting.
Another technique used to check the condition of the swedge fittings is
a "dye penetrant" test. This simple test will detect any cracks which
may develop in the fittings due to internal pressure from the corrosive
process. Inexpensive dye test kits usually are available at most welding
supply stores. Dye tests usually are not required by weekend sailors.
hut may be done before an extended cruise or ocean passage if any doubt
about the integrity of the rigging exists.
All stainless steel wire rope rigging will develop some rust film when
new. This is normal.
The rust is caused by two factors. When wire rope is manufactured. the
wire strands are fed over steel rollers during the process of twisting
or laying the wire. Trace amounts of the ferrous steel from the rollers
and dyes are transferred to the wire strands.
As this small amount of steel rusts it causes a film on the new wire.
The second cause of the rust film on new wire rope is the microscopic veins
of ferrous material which exist in all stainless steel. After a period
of time, as the surface material veins are depleted, and the stainless
steel has been cleaned several times, new rust film development will slow
to a minimum.
For the average sailor. the best insurance against a rigging failure is
a periodic (every six months is recommended) inspection of all rigging
parts, including turnbuckles and replacement of standing rigging as required.
IMPORTANT: If any wear or sign of broken strands is found on the running
or standing rigging, it is time to replace that part. Using
your boat when the rigging is worn could cause the rigging
to fail when you least expect it.
Marine fittings today need little maintenance. Deck hardware should be
hosed down with fresh water after each sail in salt water. Stainless steel
fittings such as pulpits and lifeline stanchions should be cleaned and
waxed periodically to maintain their appearance. Winches require occasional
cleaning and lubrication, where possible. n maintenance brochure for your
winches has been included in this manual. Masthead fittings. halyard sheaves,
etc. should be inspected, cleaned, and lubricated periodically. Keep
your equipment clean of dirt and salt.
Like all other fittings. mast and booms, although annodized, suffer from
salt water, air and spray. These should be kept waxed where possible,
and, at least always hosed down with fresh water. Always see that the
halyards are tied off away from the mast. This will eliminate slapping
in the wind and subsequent marking of the mast. Keep tack pin (which is
located on front of boom) well lubricated, as the stainless steel pin can
become seized in the aluminum gooseneck casting without proper lubrication.
Find a high pressure nozzle and shoot fresh water to the top of the mast
and spreaders. This will help keep your sails clean too, as they rub on
the mast and spreaders.
Inspect spreaders and spreader brackets for signs of fatigue. See that
ends of spreaders are wired and well covered with tape to prevent Wear
on the sails.
3.8 SAIL MAINTENANCE:
your sails should be protected from chafing. This can be done by either
padding the areas that touch the sail or by having your sail maker attach
chafe patches to the sails themselves.
You should check your sails frequently for any signs of wear and have any
tears or frayed stitches repaired immediately.
Sails should never be stored in the sun because they are susceptible to
decay through exposure to too much ultraviolet light. Always keep your
sails covered when they are not in use.
sails should never be put away wet. If they are wet after sailing. leave
them in loose bundles and dry them at your first opportunity.
For most problems, such as common dirt, dried or caked salt, etc.. try
scrubbing the surface with a soft bristles brush and liquid detergent.
Avoid harsh powder detergents and stiff brushes, as they may damage the
finish or stitching. This approach should work nicely for most applications.
More severe stains can be taken care of by the following:
IMPORTANT: FOR WHITE SAILS ONLY
BLOOD: Soak the stained portion for 10 to 20 minutes in a solution
of bleach (Clorox) and warm water. Generally 10 parts water
to 1 part bleach. Scrub and repeat if necessary. Rinse
thoroughly, particularly nylon, and dry completely.
OIL GREASE TAR AND WAX:
Warm water, soap and elbow grease seem to be
effective. On hard stains, propriety stain remover and
dry cleaning fluids should do the trick. Be careful to
remove all fluids as they can soften the various resinated
coatings on sailcloth.
RUST AND METALLIC STAINS: These types of stains are very often the most
frustrating and difficult to remove. First scrub with soap
and water. and apply acetone. M.E.K.. or alcohol. As a
last resort, you might try a diluted mixture (5%) of Oxalic
soaked for 15 to 20 minutes. Hydrochloric Acid, 2 parts
to 100 in warm water, will also work.
MILDEW: Hot soapy water with a little bleach will generally prevail.
After scrubbing. leave the solution on the fabric for a
few minutes and rinse thoroughly. When using a bleach.
a residual chlorine smell may be present after rinsing.
A 1% solution of Thiosulphate (photographer's Hypo) should
remove all chlorine traces. Here again, rinse and dry well.
PAINT AND VARNISH: Acetone and M.E.K. should remove most common paint
and stains. Varnish can be easily removed with alcohol.
Temperkote or Mylar sails are still new and experimental. At this point
in time, avoid most solvents, as they can damage the fabric over a period
of time. Soap and diluted bleaches should take care of most stains.
Generally speaking, use all solvents with care. Always rinse and dry thoroughly.
It should be emphasized that nylon ripstop spinnaker fabrics are less durable
and more sensitive than their polyester counterparts. Bleaches and solvents
can ruin nylon, if not used properly.
Follow the guidelines on the previous page, take your sails into your sail maker
for periodical inspection and you will have many effective seasons of racing
and cruising pleasure.
3.9 INTERIOR CUSHION. FABRIC COVER:
1. Regular vacuum cleaning or brushing in the direction of the pile
with a soft brush.
2. Stains should, if possible, be removed at once with a damp cloth.
Do not allow stains to harden or age.
3. Greasy stains can be removed with ordinary cleaning fluid.
4. For overall cleaning, use commercial types of upholstery shampoo
using only the foam to protect the back padding from moisture.
After a minute or so, remove foam, and when dry. vacuum or brush
in the direction of the pile.
5. Do not use heat such as an iron or steam.
6. The use of some kind of fabric protector such as "Scotch Guard"
is strongly recommended when the cushions are new, and after each
When curtains become soiled. DO NOT hand or machine wash, for it
will weaken the material. Dry cleaning is the recommended procedure
for the removal of any dirt or stains.