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RECOMMENDED OUTBOARD ENGINE
An outboard engine of 7.5 to 10 horsepower should be adequate to propel the Catalina 25 at hull speed under usual conditions.
A larger engine will not increase hull speed and may add additional unnecessary weight in the stern.
Long shaft engines are preferable, however, standard length shaft engines should be adequate for most conditions.
The factory installed outboard bracket is spring loaded to assist lifting and lowering the engine. It locks in both the up and down position. To release the lock in either position a downward pressure is applied to the red handle while lifting or lowering the engine. The motor should not be lifted clear of the water while it is running.
When under sail, the motor should be kept in the raised position and tilted forward so that the propeller is clear of the water to eliminate unnecessary drag.
The motor bracket manufacturer's recommended maximum horsepower should not be exceeded.
It is recommended that any enclosed compartment used for fuel storage be vented. The optional factory installed vents meet current, Coast Guard and State requirements when fuel is stored in the port cockpit locker on the molded storage platform.
Gasoline fumes are heavier than air and will accumulate in the bottom of the compartment, if not properly vented. This creates a fire and explosion hazard. Be sure there is a properly installed ventilation system that complies with Coast Guard and State regulations before storing gasoline in any enclosed compartment.
Portable fuel tanks should be secured in place before getting under way.
The Catalina 25 is an easy boat to trailer when certain precautions have been properly heeded.
In addition to the remarks in the GENERAL HANDBOOK, the following suggestions will prove helpful.
1 . Be sure to read the Trailer Manufacturers Instructions and Warranty carefully, and do not exceed the Manufacturers gross vehicle weight for trailer boat and gear.
2. Check tongue weight. Most trailers tow well with 7 to 10 percent of the Gross Trailer and load weight on the tongue. If the trailer tends to "fish tail" add tongue weight by moving weight forward or the trailer axles aft.
3. Test the brakes by operating the master cylinder manually.
4. Inspect the winch cable for broken strands or fraying.
5. Tie the mast and boom securely to the bow and stern pulpits, the spars should also be
supported in the middle by the cabin top. Pad the mast at all contact points to prevent damage.
6. In the retractable-keel model, check that the keel has been cranked down until it rests firmly on the trailer's rubber support wedge or roller. The rubber support wedge should bear the complete weight of the keel. Immediately before launching, raise keel to maximum up position to clear trailer.
7. Fixed-keel boats as well as retractable-keel boats should be seated properly on the trailer; that is, not ajar or tilted, and with the bow properly snugged into the rubber wedge at the front of the trailer. Fixed keel boats should have the weight of the boat bearing on the keel, not the padded upright supports.
8. Follow normal trailer procedures of connecting lights and safety chain, and be sure your hitch is well-secured. Always test lights before leaving ramp area.
9. Do not allow anyone aft of the transom during launching or loading, who could be injured if the boat were suddenly dislodged from the trailer.
GENERAL OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
POP TOP OPERATION
If your boat is equipped with a "pop top" hatch, the following notes will aid in its operation.
First of all, the pop top can be used in two different positions. When the pop top is in the down position, the smaller sliding hatch serves as access to the cabin. When the pop top is in the up position, access to the cabin is greatly increased and of course, so is the available headroom. To put the pop top in the up position you must go inside the cabin. The top is raised by lifting upward and forward at the same time. With the pop top in the fully raised position, reach forward to the pop top slide lock and look the top to the mast.
In light winds you can sail with the pop top in the raised position, but in heavier winds it is recommended that you keep it closed and fastened down, along with all other hatches.
ANCHORS AND ANCHORING
Under normal weather conditions in a protected anchorage an anchor in the 9-13 pound range and of the "danforth type" may be used as a bow anchor in ordinary conditions. This anchor will only be effective with at least 12 feet of 1/4 inch or heavier gauge chain and at least 200 feet or more of 7/16" or heavier nylon line. An 8 pound stern anchor will require about 150 feet of scope and 10 feet of chain.
Under adverse weather conditions as much as a 20 pound bow anchor could prove necessary, and possibly a plough-type anchor might be required.
Inquire in your local area about anchoring procedures relative to the place you plan to visit. Get the opinion of several experienced people and always play it on the safe side in "making up" your anchor ahead of time for emergency use. Do not forget to wire all shackle pins so they cannot come loose underwater.
Remember: Lighter anchors are made more effective by increasing the scope, i.e. the ratio of length of line and chain to depth of water. A 7:1 ratio is recommended. This means using 7 feet of anchor line for each foot in depth of water. An anchor is a necessity aboard any boat, it is recommended you have a usable anchor aboard whenever you leave the dock.
ANTI-FOULING BOTTOM PAINT
Anti-fouling paint should be applied to the bottom if it is to be moored in either fresh or salt water for any length of time. There are many brands available. Anti-fouling paint prevents the growth of algae, barnacles and other fouling organisms on underwater surfaces. If this paint has been applied at the factory, no action is necessary at the time of launching.
The anti-fouling paint used at the factory is a vinyl-base copper bearing type available either in red or blue. For those owners who apply antifouling paint themselves, it should be noted that most brands require all underwater fiberglass surfaces to be very carefully sanded and primed immediately prior to the first application on a new boat. In any event, the instructions of the manufacturer of the brand of paint used should be followed.
If you decide to keep your retractable-keel model in the water, especially salt water. Bottom paint is a must, plus periodic cleaning and removal of marine growth from the keel trunk slot. The possibility of corrosion to the keel and keel fittings is greatly increased. Keeping a retractable-keel model in salt water for lengthy periods is not recommended.
Should you decide to keep a retractable-keel model in the water at a slip or mooring for extended periods where electrolysis is a potential problem, the following suggestions may help to protect the keel assembly. The keel pivot pin is made of siliconbronze, the hinge castings are of brass, and the keel itself is made of iron. To retard electrolytic action which will "eat" away the metals, drill and tap the side of the keel (near the forward edge) as close to the keel Pivot assembly as possible. Then attach a teardrop shaped "zinc." Keeping the keel in the raised position will help prolong the life of the cable (7x19, 1/4" S.S.) by keeping as much of it out of the water as possible.
Iron keels must be sealed to prevent rusting. You may paint the keel itself with rust retardant paint like the commercially available "Rust-o-leum" or zinc chromate paints.
The fixed keel or retractable keel may also be painted with a two part epoxy paint system to prevent rusting. Most epoxy systems require stripping the keel to bare metal and filling with a chemically compatible filler compound. The paint manufacturers instructions should be followed.
To remove the keel you will note that the keel pivots on a rod, secured
by two cast fittings recessed into the hull. Should the keel require removal at any time, these castings may be unbolted by removing the stainless steel cable and the four 3/8 x 16" bolts from the underside. Make sure that the keel is well supported before removing these fastenings.
When replacing the keel be sure to use lock washers and a liquid locking agent like "lock tight". The bolts should be reset with a torque wrench to 35 Ibs. ea.
U.S. COAST GUARD EQUIPMENT RECOMMENDATIONS
U.S. Coast Guard Recommended minimum Equipment list.
The following list, prepared by the U.S. Coast Guard represents the minimum equipment
necessary for the safe operation of a 25 foot outboard power sail boat similar to the Catalina 25.
FRESH WATER SYSTEM
The galley is supplied fresh water from a 16 gallon high density plastic tank located under the starboard settee. The tank is filled thru the vent cap mounted directly on the tank or thru the optional deck fillplate, located on the starboard side deck. The deck fill is labeled water.
The threads of the fill plate cap should be lightly coated with petroleum jelly or another non toxic lubricant to prevent corrosion between the plate and the cap.
ICE BOX DRAIN
The ice box drain is tapped to the galley sink drain. The ice box drain is fitted with a separate valve. This should be kept closed when sailing to prevent salt water from backing up into the ice box when the boat is heeled. In areas where overboard discharge is prohibited the drains can be disconnected and led to a jug in the bilge.
Boats manufactured before January 31, 1977, may have an overboard discharge marine head. The toilet is supplied with servicing instructions. Operation instructions are printed on the toilet pump housing. Read the instructions thoroughly and be sure that all persons who might be using the head understand its operation. Parts and spares may be obtained directly from the toilet manufacturer or your servicing Catalina dealer.
The marine head thru-hull valves should be kept closed when not operating the head to avoid
the possibility of water entering the boat due to failure of the internal toilet valve.
The optional holding tank is made from high density polypropylene plastic. The tank capacity is 14 U.S. Gallons. It is located under the forward end of the settee or dinette seat on the port side.
The vent is located on the port side deck near the main chain plate. The vent line (1/2" I.D.) must be kept clear. If it becomes clogged it should be flushed with fresh water, this can be done from the deck vent using a garden hose.
The tank is emptied by a shore side pump thru the deck plate marked "Waste" on the port side deck.
Waste should not be stored for long periods of time. The tank should be emptied and flushed regularly.
A simple method of checking the level of the tank is to put a flash light, lens down, on the top of the tank, then look at one side of the tank and you can see the fluid level in the tank.
All underwater thru-hull fittings are equipped with gate valves. Close all gate valves when leaving the boat, especially for an extended period of time.
To close seacocks, turn clockwise; to open, turn counter-clockwise.
It is good practice to operate the gate valves at least once a month to keep them in good working order Check the packing glands on all gate valves yearly to avoid water seepage.
MANUAL BILGE PUMP
The manual bilge pump is located in the port cockpit locker. The handle is stored in a clip fitting just above the pump inside the locker. Insert the handle through the water-tight fitting in the cockpit to operate the pump.
The pump pick-up is in the keel stub under the main cabin sole. The pump hoses are 1" I.D.
PARTS AND ACCESSORY ORDERS
Catalina's interest in both customer and product continues long after you have commissioned your Catalina 25.
Within the limits of our specifications, the company's Parts Department is ready to serve your nearest dealer quickly and efficiently. All replacement parts or accessories are delivered through your dealer. He must have detailed information from you to be certain we send the parts required.
The builder would like to take this opportunity to wish you season after season of sailing enjoyment in your new Catalina 25.
We have prepared these texts with that goal in mind, believing that knowledge of the boat and awareness of safety procedures will lead to increased sailing pleasure for you and your family.
Take care of your boat and take the time to learn and practice good seamanship.
BEFORE LEAVING THE DOCK OR MOORING:
1. Visually inspect the standing rigging. Be sure that turnbuckle nuts are tight or cotter pins secure and covered to prevent chafe, halyards are free and not tangled.
2. Make-up the anchor and line. These should be ready for immediate use, stored on deck or in the forward anchor locker.
3. A throwable, approved lifesaving device should be on deck, available to the helmsman, in accordance with Coast Guard Recommendations.
4. Test running lights.
5. Check water tank.
6. Check fuel tank level.
7. Secure loose objects on deck and below.
BEFORE LEAVING THE BOAT
AFTER USE:1. Close all thru-hull valves.
2. Any salt spray should be rinsed from the deck and rigging with fresh water to prevent corrosion and preserve the finish. 3. Relieve pressure in stove fuel tank if fitted.
4. Leave ice box lid ajar for ventilation.
5. Check bilge water level, pump if necessary.
6. Set battery selector switch to "off".
7. Check mooring or dock lines for secure attachment.
8. Tie off halyards to shrouds to prevent unnecessary noise and preserve mast finish.
9. Secure mooring lines or dock lines, place fenders when required.
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