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 Mast cradle and mast lowering poles		  New Topic  Reply to Topic
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JanS48
Navigator

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USA
144 Posts
Initially Posted - 09/19/2023 :  21:37:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greetings everyone, well my boat yard finally priced me out of using their services. This year they want $1,700. for storage.
I contacted a boat hauler that will move it to my yard and back to the water in the spring for $ 850 in change.

Sooooo I need to fabricate a mast cradle fore and aft, and have a way of dropping the mast towards the stern. Can someone point me to mast cradles - measurements would be nice. Also can someone point me to the poles needed to drop the mast towards the stern.
Thanks in advance
Jan
82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5320 Posts
Response Posted - 09/20/2023 :  20:15:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jan - I agree that you are right, renting ~200 sq ft of space for six months shouldn’t cost you that much. So, you plan to use your own property for winter storage. Bravo.
I was faced with that situation several years ago, and I was luckily able to find a much less costly option if I were willing to sail several miles from my summertime location each spring and summer. But I weighed doing what you’re doing very seriously.
You’ll still have to purchase 5 or 7 jackstands to place underneath your boat, that could set you back about $100 - $200 each, depending on brand and quality.
Your question has two parts. 1. How can you safely drop your mast? and 2. How can you build a pair of stands to store your mast without bending it while it’s stored horizontally?
1. There are at least two generally accepted ways to drop your mast: a. Using an A-frame made of 10ft 2x4s and your mainsheet, dropping it aft (1 or 2 person job) or b. Using a gin pole and your mainsheet with 2 people, 1 to stabilize and the other to control the drop. Either way, you need a cradle to catch the mast. That cradle can be the same thing that you use to store the mast. There are literally dozens of posts about dropping the mast.
Storing the mast without deformation is a little different. The rear stand will stand in the aft section of the cockpit which is about 30” wide near the transom. The height of the cradle needs to be approximately 36-42” tall.
On the bow, you can add a 5 ft long 2x4 across the bow pulpit. Use plenty of foam wrapped around the 2x4 to cushion both the pulpit and the mast.
The key section to focus on is the cabintop near the companionway and the mast tabernacle. Again, 2x4s and foam are a must. Before mounting your mast, put a taut string between the fore and aft cradles to gauge the height of the midpoints. It depends on your year bow pulpit height.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
Edited by - Voyager on 09/20/2023 20:26:19
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JanS48
Navigator

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USA
144 Posts
Response Posted - 09/20/2023 :  20:56:39  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the info, I'm leaning towards an A frame setup using metal emt by the looks of it. I've still yet to find the measurements for my std rig. As far as stands go, when I purchased the boat it came with a set of stands which have been sitting for a few years but nothing that a good coat of paint, re-lube the screws, and replace some of the pads won't cure. For the keel block I'm planning on making the main cut of maple (I've lots of trees) then using pieces of 2x12's as needed. You mention that the mast can bend or warp if not supported correctly ? I was planning on just leaving it on the boat in whatever cradles I come up with. I'm sure I could fab some other supports if needed.
Thanks again for the post.
82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5320 Posts
Response Posted - 09/21/2023 :  05:32:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mid span support is key. Imagine a heavy wet snow piling up on your tarp weighing down the midsection of the mast. And because the cabintop is pretty tall, you might as well take advantage of the height and support.
The A frame using EMT or wood should be between 8 ft (a little short) and 10 ft to fit into the space of the fore-triangle between the shroud chainplates amidships and the forestay chainplate at the bow. Connect the forestay to the tip of the a frame and the ends of the a-frame to bolts through the shroud chainplates, and that typically provides sufficient purchase when you connect the mainsheet blocks to the tip of the a-frame.
Don’t go only on my advice, but review the other posts and a few YouTube videos. Your mileage may vary and not all a-frames are ideal. The more help you have, the better. Don’t try to do it alone, especially first time, because crap happens.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
Edited by - Voyager on 09/21/2023 09:22:14
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts
Response Posted - 06/13/2024 :  13:35:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I use a wood A-frame with the forestay attached and attach the halyard wit a little slack just in case. Redundancy for safety is a bother, but a crashing mast is more of a bother.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5882 Posts
Response Posted - 06/13/2024 :  16:05:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Click on this link and scroll down and you'll find a drawing with dimensions for fabricating an A frame. I'm sure it will work for either a standard or tall rig. It worked on my tall rig. I expect a few dozen have been made from these plans.
https://catalina-capri-25s.org/tech/tech25/bearsad1.asp
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.